Yield:4 to 6 servings

• 1 ½ pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes

• Sea salt and black pepper

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin 

• 1 teaspoon ground coriander

• ½ teaspoon allspice

• Pinch of crushed red pepper 

• 4 garlic cloves, grated or smashed to a paste

• Extra-virgin olive oil

• A few handfuls of arugula

• Lemon wedges

• Lavash or other flatbread, for serving

For the Yogurt Sauce

• ¼ cup lemon juice (from 2 lemons)

• 3 tablespoons tahini

• 3 garlic cloves, grated or smashed to a paste

• 2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt

• Large pinch of sea salt

• Speck of ground cayenne

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

For the Orzo Pilaf

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 cup finely diced yellow onion

• Sea salt

• ½ cup orzo

• 1 ½ cups long-grain rice, rinsed and drained

• 2 small bay leaves

• 3 garlic cloves, minced

• 2 cups chicken broth or water

• 3 tablespoons finely sliced scallion greens (optional) 

• 1 small lemon (optional)

1. Step 1

   Put lamb cubes in a large bowl. Season well with salt and pepper, then add cumin, coriander, allspice, pepper flakes and garlic. Drizzle with olive oil. Using your hands, mix seasoning thoroughly into the meat, coating well. 

2. Step 2

   Let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes, up to several hours (or even a day in advance). Thread the lamb cubes onto short skewers without crowding (about 5 to 6 ounces of meat per skewer).

3. Step 3

   While the lamb marinates, make the yogurt sauce: Put lemon juice in a medium bowl. Add tahini and garlic and whisk briefly to dissolve. Whisk in yogurt, salt, cayenne and olive oil. Let rest, then taste and adjust seasoning. Refrigerate until ready to use, at least 10 minutes. It tastes best fresh, but will last 2 days.

4. Step 4

   Prepare the orzo pilaf, if making: Melt butter with oil in a medium heavy-bottom saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and a little salt, and cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the orzo and let brown lightly, stirring, about 2 minutes. Add rice and stir to combine. Add bay leaves and garlic, then the broth. Bring to a boil, then turn heat to low and put on the lid. Cook for 20 minutes, until all broth is absorbed. Remove from the heat and leave covered to rest and keep warm.

5. Step 5

   When ready, prepare the grill or heat your broiler. Grill the skewers or set under the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once, and aim for medium-rare. (You want them juicy but not rare.) Arrange a bed of arugula on a large platter. Set the grilled skewers on top and serve with garlicky yogurt sauce and lavash or other flatbread. 

6. Step 6

   Fluff the orzo, sprinkle with the scallion greens and zest the lemon over the top before serving.

or to mark this recipe as cooked.