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Darek Kay

Sabbatical #18: Great Ocean Road Sabbatical #17: Melbourne Sabbatical #16: Kaikōura Sabbatical #15: Tasman-Marlborough Sabbatical #14: West Coast Sabbatical #13: Wānaka Sabbatical #12: Milford Sound Sabbatical #11: Queenstown Sabbatical #10: Mackenzie Basin Sabbatical #09: Dunedin Sabbatical #08: Christchurch Sabbatical #06: Tongariro National Park Sabbatical #05: Rotorua Lakes Sabbatical #04: Coromandel Peninsula Sabbatical #03: Auckland Sabbatical #02: Doha Sabbatical #01: Getting ready Grab browser links and titles in one click Open Graph images: Format compatibility across platforms
Sabbatical #07: Waitomo
Darek Kay · 2026-03-13 · via Darek Kay

“I know we are going to take a very long road, into darkness; but I know I can't turn back.”

― The Lord of the Rings

Black Abyss

Waitomo is mostly known for their glowworm caves. Most people book a short boat ride to view the countless New Zealand glowworms (Arachnocampa luminosa). I probably wouldn't include this activity in my trip if there wasn't a much more adventurous alternative: the Black Abyss, a caving tour.

After putting on a wetsuit, you start with a 35 m abseil into a pitch dark cave. While you're waiting for the others, you can already admire the first glowworms.

A bottom up view of a rope leading into a cave.

Next, you do a short zipline inside the cave, with more glowworms above you.

Glowworms with a blue-green light.

After a short break with hot chocolate and a cookie, you jump with a big tube into the dark, refreshing water.

A person in a wetsuit, helmet and rubber boots jumps from a cliff holding a tube.

What follows is a short light painting photo session.

Seven people standing in a cave water. A light painting trace is around them.

For the next hour or so, you are swimming and/or floating on your tube through the big cave. Despite the wetsuit and the hot chocolate, it was freezing cold, getting worse over time. My teeth were chattering, slightly distracting from the otherwise awesome experience.

Once you reach a dead end, you form a "tube train" with your group, and the guide slowly pulls you all back to the starting point. You can now once again enjoy thousands of glowworms in what feels like a star-spangled sky. You also learn a few interesting facts about those creatures. Glowworms are not related to fireflies in any way. It's mostly the larvae that exhibit the largest bioluminescence. They use this technique to attract prey, and the hungriest individuals will glow the strongest.

There's also a small waterfall, which makes for another great photo opportunity.

A backlit portrait of a person standing under a waterfall.

After you give back your tube, you'll continue the caving tour by foot, following more narrow passages.

Finally, you are given a decision to leave the cave the easy way, or climb your way out on cascading underground waterfalls. I probably don't have to mention, which option I've chosen 🧗

I expected this to be the highlight of the north island, and I wasn't disappointed! While I've had many "first time" experiences in New Zealand, this tour combined a couple of those in a 4–5 hour time span.

Omaru Falls

On my way to Waitomo, I did a short walk to the Omaru Falls.

A sign indicating a way to the Omaru Falls.

I can imagine the waterfall looking nice during sunshine, but after rain it's just a brown soup falling down. With long exposure, it still looks interesting, though.

A long-exposure shot of a brown waterfall.

Fauna

There are no (new) birds this time, but I've made some other encounters.

A cicada sitting on a plant.
Another cicada
A goat lying on a sand ground.
A single goat chilling at a river.
A T-Rex statue behind a fence.
A captivated T-Rex in Te Kuiti
This post is part of my Sabbatical 2026 series:
  1. Sabbatical #01: Getting ready
  2. Sabbatical #02: Doha
  3. Sabbatical #03: Auckland
  4. Sabbatical #04: Coromandel Peninsula
  5. Sabbatical #05: Rotorua Lakes
  6. Sabbatical #06: Tongariro National Park
  7. Sabbatical #07: Waitomo
  8. Sabbatical #08: Christchurch
  9. Sabbatical #09: Dunedin
  10. Sabbatical #10: Mackenzie Basin
  11. Sabbatical #11: Queenstown
  12. Sabbatical #12: Milford Sound
  13. Sabbatical #13: Wānaka
  14. Sabbatical #14: West Coast
  15. Sabbatical #15: Tasman-Marlborough
  16. Sabbatical #16: Kaikōura
  17. Sabbatical #17: Melbourne