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Darek Kay

Sabbatical #18: Great Ocean Road Sabbatical #17: Melbourne Sabbatical #16: Kaikōura Sabbatical #15: Tasman-Marlborough Sabbatical #14: West Coast Sabbatical #13: Wānaka Sabbatical #12: Milford Sound Sabbatical #11: Queenstown Sabbatical #10: Mackenzie Basin Sabbatical #09: Dunedin Sabbatical #08: Christchurch Sabbatical #07: Waitomo Sabbatical #06: Tongariro National Park Sabbatical #04: Coromandel Peninsula Sabbatical #03: Auckland Sabbatical #02: Doha Sabbatical #01: Getting ready Grab browser links and titles in one click Open Graph images: Format compatibility across platforms
Sabbatical #05: Rotorua Lakes
Darek Kay · 2026-03-04 · via Darek Kay

Hot geothermal pools of Wai-O-Tapu

“When in doubt, follow your nose.”

― The Lord of the Rings

As a Lord of the Rings fan, visiting Hobbiton was non-negotiable. Everything was booked out for February, and I was almost considering changing my trip route. Fortunately, there were some external provider tickets left, incl. a bus transfer. This led me to the interesting city of Rotorua.

Hobbiton

Hobbiton was the village of our favorite hobbits from the Tolkien world. After the filming of The Lord of the Rings had finished, the temporary movie set near Matamata has been disassembled. Hobbiton was later completely rebuilt for The Hobbit, and knowing the potential, it was turned into a tourist magnet.

As already mentioned, I have booked the tour with a bus transfer, and it was absolutely worth it. Our bus driver, Ngata, provided an entertaining, engaging and informative environment during the entire trip. I've learned a lot about the history of New Zealand, the Māori culture, but also the "sweet as" Kiwi phrase (which means something like "alright").

Hobbiton in the distance. A fantasy-style lamp post in the foreground.

Another sunny day in New Zealand really brought out the green color of The Shire. Umbrellas were provided as a shield against the harsh sun, and having learned my lesson, I gladly took one.

Overview of Hobbiton, incl. the party three and the lake.

To make Hobbiton as "real" as possible, much of the things you can see is real. For example, the honey jars contain actual honey collected within the village.

Jars of honey on a table.

What makes Hobbiton come alive are all the cute hobbit houses. While the doors can be opened in theory, the houses are usually empty inside.

A hobbit house.

A person standing in the door of a hobbit house.

The only exception are two houses on Bagshot Row, which offer a way to explore the interior of a hobbit's home. Our guide emphasized that it's not a museum, so we were encouraged to feel at home, e.g., lie in the tiny beds.

A fantasy-theme kitchen table

Fun fact for all the movie nerds out there: I did bump my head on the ceiling unintentionally, but not as hard as Sir Ian McKellen.

A mill in Hobbiton

The tour ended with an ale from The Green Dragon Inn (noticeably altering my state, as I rarely drink alcohol 🥴) and a buffet lunch inside The Party Marquee. I joined a family from the US, and I learned from the mom about a Lord of the Rings movie location tour on the south island. I guess my journey through Middle-Earth doesn't end here!

Exploration

While Hobbiton was my main thing to visit, there's just so much more to do and see around Rotorua.

Rotorua visitor center building
Rotorua visitor center building

The Māori culture is omnipresent in the city.

A fence with Maori drawings and a Maori statue

I love how even the smallest towns have beautiful murals on their buildings. It's rare to see graffiti vandalism in New Zealand.

A mural of an owl, next to a tree

The city itself is known for geothermal activity, incl. geysers. The hydrogen sulphide gas gives Rotorua its "rotten egg" smell. It's bearable and you kind of get used to it, but I wouldn't like to live there.

You can visit the Kuirau Park in the middle of Rotorua for free, which gives you a first glimpse into the impressive natural spectacle.

Tree stumps and logs in a body of water. Steam above the water.

Those pools can reach 100 °C, so you will find warnings everywhere.

A sign warning about a hot pool being a danger area.

For an even better experience, there are more geothermal attractions in the area. I decided to go to Wai-O-Tapu, one of the more popular spots.

Fenced geothermal pools of Wai-O-Tapu

A green body of water with white tree branches above it.

A monochrome photo of steam coming up from a body of water. A tree in the background.

A person walking through steam.

A long-exposure photo of a small waterfall.

An older person with a hat surrounded by tree branches and leaves.

The Whakarewarewa forest (also called Redwoods) is a great place for a hike, offering routes of all lengths. The name comes from the Californian Coast Redwoods, one of the tallest and longest-living trees on Earth. It is indeed a little bit intimidating and definitely worth a visit.

Bottom-up view of red trees.

Maunga Kākaramea (Rainbow Mountain) was slightly disappointing, but it probably looks better during sunshine.

Mountains with red patches.

A cyan-colored lake.

I did a hike around the Lake Tikitapu (Blue Lake) and Lake Rotokakahi (Green Lake). Kiwis are definitely not the most creative with namings. It was nice, but the missing sunshine didn't bring out any of the promised colors.

A gull sitting on a wooden log on a lake.

An s-curved street in between palm trees.

While the Blue Spring in Putāruru is technically not part of Rotorua Lakes, it is one of the most popular day trips. The reason is that it has some of the purest water in the world. The source supplies around 70% of New Zealand's bottled water.

Two people with an umbrella on a sunny day walking through a nature path.

A landscape of a river going through green trees.

A clear river in front of a green hill with trees.

A clear river, plants underneath the water

Experiences

Rotorua offers many interesting activities to choose from. Despite all the exciting offerings, I have mostly focused on nature and socializing. Except for the highest commercial rafting drop of 7 meters, I do not regret that decision.

Fauna

Let's start with the Eurasian chaffinch, which — as the name suggests — is a species that has been introduced to New Zealand.

A female Eurasian chaffinch

Another introduced species is the song thrush.

A song thrush bird

The welcome swallow seems to be common in Rotorua. It is native to Australia and believed to have flown to New Zealand in the twentieth century.

Three welcome swallow birds sitting on a white branch. A fourth bird is in the middle of a landing.

I've seen some black swans along the way.

A black swan with a red peck.

The Australasian swamphen (also known as pūkeko) can be found everywhere, incl. city parks.

A pukeko bird.

The pied stilt didn't care about the high temperature of the hot pools.

A pied stilt bird standing in a hot pool

The New Zealand scaup was the only (new) endemic species I have spotted. They're called "Maoriente" (Māori duck) in German.

A New Zealand scaup in water.

I can't identify those parrots, but I did catch them in-flight after listening to their songs for a while.

Two parrots flying in front of trees

At Hobbiton, I've seen some butterflies, which I believe to be the Monarch species.

An orange-black-white butterfly sitting on a red flower.

Takeaways

Because of its central location, Rotorua is a hub for backpackers. Most of them are traveling by bus, so the demand for people with cars is high to get to some remote spots. I've planned a day trip and asked around if anyone would like to join me. Two people happily did, and we even picked up another person during the trip. While I do love solo traveling, spending the day with other people really made my day.

Fun fact: Because of my jet lag, I've been waking up between 5 and 7 am, so I didn't set up my alarm clock. Well, my body finally took what it needed and I slept for 10 hours, missing our agreed schedule. It still did work out in the end, though.

This post is part of my Sabbatical 2026 series:
  1. Sabbatical #01: Getting ready
  2. Sabbatical #02: Doha
  3. Sabbatical #03: Auckland
  4. Sabbatical #04: Coromandel Peninsula
  5. Sabbatical #05: Rotorua Lakes
  6. Sabbatical #06: Tongariro National Park
  7. Sabbatical #07: Waitomo
  8. Sabbatical #08: Christchurch
  9. Sabbatical #09: Dunedin
  10. Sabbatical #10: Mackenzie Basin
  11. Sabbatical #11: Queenstown
  12. Sabbatical #12: Milford Sound
  13. Sabbatical #13: Wānaka
  14. Sabbatical #14: West Coast
  15. Sabbatical #15: Tasman-Marlborough
  16. Sabbatical #16: Kaikōura
  17. Sabbatical #17: Melbourne