Clinical electroencephalogram (EEG) analysis rests on a hand-crafted feature catalog refined over decades, \emph{e.g.,} band power, connectivity, complexity, and more. Modern EEG foundation models bypass this catalog, learn directly from raw signals via self-supervised pretraining, and match or outperform feature-engineered baselines on most clinical benchmarks. Whether the two representations align is an open question, which we decompose into three sub-questions: \emph{what does the model learn}, \emph{what does the model use}, and \emph{how much can be explained}. We answer them with layer-wise ridge probing, LEACE-style cross-covariance subspace erasure, and a transparent classifier benchmarked against a random-feature baseline. The audit covers three foundation models (CSBrain, CBraMod, LaBraM), five clinical tasks (MDD, Stress, ISRUC-Sleep, TUSL, Siena), and a 6-family 63-feature lexicon. Of the $945$ (model, task, feature) units, $648$ ($68.6\%$) are representation-causal and $199$ ($21.1\%$) are encoded-only. Across tasks, $50$ features qualify as universal candidates with strong support (all three architectures RC) in two or more tasks. Frequency-domain features dominate, but the other five families each contribute substantial causal mass. Confirmed features recover, on average, $79.3\%$ of the foundation model's advantage over the random baseline, with a clean task gradient (MDD $\approx 0.99$ down to Stress $\approx 0.56$): tasks near ceiling are almost fully recovered by the lexicon, while harder tasks leave a non-trivial residual that pinpoints a concrete target for future concept discovery.