I know manicures are supposed to feel restorative and fall into the self-care category, but I can’t lie—it can be one of the more stressful champagne problems of my week. Between committing to a design and polish I’ll be looking at for the next few weeks, it can quickly turn into a spiral of indecisiveness. And then there’s the bigger question: which type of manicure should I get to last as long as possible?

There’s nothing worse than glancing down at your hands a couple of days post-appointment and already spotting chips or snags. Luckily, two of the most popular long-wear options at salons, gel and dip manicures, are designed to keep the fingers looking freshly done for weeks. They’re often confused (dip is even sometimes called “powder gel”), but they’re actually quite different in terms of both application and wear.

Ahead, I chatted with celebrity nail artist Julie Kandalec on everything you need to know about dip manicures and gel manicures to help you choose one for your next appointment.

“Dip nails are a durable nail coating, so they are good for people who want a bit thicker enhancement, and work with their hands a lot,” says Julie. Unlike gel polish, which needs to be cured under a UV or LED lamp, dip powder nails are air-dried through a chemical bonding process.

The nail tech applies a resin-based adhesive to the nail before dipping it into a pot of colored powder layer by layer (or sprinkling it on top for a more sanitary method). An activator liquid is then brushed on top, which hardens the powder and resin combination almost instantly. The manicure is finished with a top coat for added shine and protection, leaving behind a thick coating that’s designed to last about 3 weeks.

“Since it’s thicker on the nail, it’s more difficult to remove,” says Julie. To take off dip powder nails, the shiny top layer is usually filed down first before the nails are soaked in acetone to help dissolve the hardened powder. Because the coating is thicker and stronger than gel polish, the soaking process can take a bit longer—typically around 15 to 20 minutes. Once the product softens, the remaining dip powder is scraped away from the nail.

“A gel manicure is ideal for someone who wants a glossy, long-lasting manicure without added structure or thickness,” says Julie. “It’s especially great for people who are constantly on the go, since there’s no dry time involved once the polish is cured.”

During the manicure, the nail tech paints layers of gel-based polish (typically a base coat, two coats of color, and a glossy top coat) directly onto the nail, using a UV or LED lamp for a minute between each layer to harden the formula.

The result is a shiny, lightweight finish that feels more flexible and natural than dip powder. “A gel polish mani will last 2 weeks or so,” Julie explains. When it’s time for removal, the top coat is typically filed down before the nails are soaked in acetone to help break down the gel polish. After about 10 to 15 minutes, the softened gel can be gently pushed or filed off the nail.

Application process

Gel manicures are applied similarly to traditional nail polish, with the gel formula being painted directly onto the nail in layers. Then, each coat is hardened under a lamp before the next one is applied. Dip powder manicures, however, involve brushing a resin adhesive onto the nail and dipping it into colored powder layer by layer until the desired opacity and thickness is achieved.

Dry time

Gel polish is fully dried after it’s cured under a lamp, and the full painting process usually takes about 20 minutes, depending on how many coats are applied (with some extra time if you’re opting for chrome or a design). Dip powder doesn’t require any lamp at all, since it hardens through a chemical activator that bonds the resin and powder together. The application is often slightly faster overall, since the layers set almost instantly once the activator is applied. Both options eliminate the risk of smudging your nails on the way home, unlike traditional polish.

Longevity

Gel manicures typically last around two weeks before chipping or lifting begins. Dip powder manicures are typically more durable and can last around three weeks because of the thicker coating. That said, the exact wear time for both depends on factors like nail growth and how rough you are on your hands day to day.

Thickness

Gel manicures tend to feel thinner and lighter on the nails, making them look a bit more natural (but slightly more prone to chipping). Dip powder creates a thicker, harder coating that adds extra strength and structure to the nail. Because of that added thickness, dip nails can feel slightly heavier and take longer to remove.

Choosing between a dip powder and gel polish manicure really comes down to your lifestyle and what you prioritize most in a manicure.

Gel polish is a great option if you want something lightweight and more natural-looking, while dip powder is better suited for anyone looking for extra strength and longer wear. That said, dip powder does require a bit more skill to apply smoothly and evenly, since each layer has to be carefully built up and balanced to avoid a bulky or uneven finish, but in return, it typically lasts longer than gel polish. The trade-off is that dip also takes more effort to remove because of how firmly it bonds to the nail, while gel is generally quicker and easier to soak off.

Both services start around $35 to $40, depending on the manicurist’s skill and salon location. Ultimately, it depends on whether you value convenience and easier removal or maximum durability and longevity.

Julie Kandalec is a New York City-based nail artist whose celebrity clients include Emily Blunt, Rachel McAdams, and more.

Jasmine Hyman is the assistant beauty editor at Cosmo who covers all things nails—from the latest polish launches to the hottest nail trends. She’s an expert when it comes to different types of manicures, and you’ll never find her without a fresh coat of color on her fingers.