“What the heck is an eyebrow tattoo?” my mom texted me after her friend raved about getting microblading, a semi-permanent makeup tattoo that promises perfect arches without the need for eyebrow gels, pencils, and constant tweezing. It’s expensive, a little painful, and requires some aftercare. But to never have to pick up an eyebrow pen again? A dream.

Is it actually worth it? I chatted with cosmetic tattoo specialist Piret Aava, brow artist Alixandria Capparelli, and dermatologist Tracy Evans, MD, to find out what exactly microblading is, how painful it is, how much it costs, and everything else you need to know before booking an appointment. Keep reading, then check out all the before-and-after pics from when one Cosmo editor tried it themselves.

Microblading 101

Microblading is a semi-permanent form of cosmetic tattooing to create the illusion of fuller brows. But unlike traditional tattoos, which use a tattoo gun, microblading uses a blade-shaped tool with a row of tiny, barely visible needles to create hair-like strokes along your brows while depositing pigment into your skin. The result? Realistic-looking brow hairs that don’t wash off for a year or more.

Generally speaking, microblading is safe, as long as your artist uses proper techniques—i.e., not tattooing too deep into your skin and creating accidental scar tissue, which “can damage the hair follicle,” says Capparelli, and in rare cases, prevent new hair growth. This is precisely why it’s important to always go to a licensed professional (aka do your research and avoid opting for somewhere that just offers cheap coupons but has no reviews). All of this is because microblading can come with risks, from potential infection and scarring if not cared for properly to allergic reactions if not patch-tested.

Is your skin super reactive and sensitive? Do you have keratosis pilaris on your forehead? Do you consistently deal with hormonal or cystic acne around your brows? Then you may not be a great candidate at the moment, since microblading will initially cause some inflammation that can exacerbate skin conditions and affect your tattoo’s healing process.

“I try to warn patients against microblading if they have sensitive skin, or if they’re prone to allergies with other types of topicals,” says Dr. Evans, noting that some people can get allergic contact dermatitis after microblading, resulting in an itchy, scaly, cracked rash. If a reaction does occur after your appointment (worsening redness, pus, fever, severe swelling, or spreading pain), see your dermatologist ASAP, who can prescribe a steroid to bring down symptoms and prevent damage to your tattoo, then call your cosmetic tattoo artist and inform them of your reaction.

Most brow artists will not microblade on pregnant or breastfeeding clients to avoid risks of infection. Clear it with your doctor first, and wait at least six weeks after giving birth and/or stopping breastfeeding before booking your appointment. Also, patients on Accutane will need to wait until after their treatment has concluded to get microblading because the prescription makes their bodies prone to excessive sensitivity and bleeding.

Microblading is a type of tattoo, but it’s not permanent like a real tattoo. Not only do the two use different “inks”—traditional tattoos use concentrated tattoo ink, while cosmetic tattoos use smaller pigment particles—but they’re also applied differently. With microblading, the pigment is applied superficially to your skin (so your body eventually metabolizes it until it fades away), rather than placed into your skin’s deeper layers (where it becomes permanent).

Because of the pigment used and the way it’s applied to the skin, microblading produces a semi-permanent “tattoo” that looks soft and subtle, instead of opaque and bold like traditional skin tattoos. Over time, the pigment on your brows will also lighten a shade or two from its original color, whereas a tattoo on your body can have a blue-green tint on the edges when it starts to fade.

Microblading can last anywhere from one to three years, depending on your skin type (oilier skin types tend to fade the tattoos fastest), explains Aava. In one year, you’ll likely notice some fading, but your microblading probably won’t be totally gone. By three years, though, you can expect your microblading to be nearly untraceable. However, consistent touch-ups every 12-18 months can help your microbladed brows look fresh throughout the years.

Microblading can be somewhat painful, but the level of pain you may feel will depend on your own natural pain tolerance. The upside? Your brow artist will slather on a numbing gel before they begin, and may also add an extra layer of gel between each pass.

But in general, Capparelli (and many others) likens the pain of microblading to a cat scratch, noting that “on a scale of tweezing your brows to getting a bikini wax, microblading is more like tweezing your brows.” Basically, expect the pain to be a little uncomfortable, but not unbearable.

How much microblading costs depends on a lot of factors, like where you live, the experience of your artist, etc., but expect to pay anywhere from $500 to $2,000 (brb, starting a microblading savings fund). That said, brow products aren’t cheap, and time is money, so it can be worth the cost for anyone not feeling their natural brows and doesn't want to hand-draw their brows each morning.

Microblading can be great for those with thin, sparse brows to get some definition and fullness, but Capparelli warns it might not look as natural as someone who does have hair behind the drawn-on strokes. If you’re worried about your microbladed brows looking too drawn-on, your brow artist can add shading behind the hair-like strokes so the empty spaces between the strokes aren’t so noticeable.

Those who already have some eyebrow hair and just want a little fill-in or enhancement to their natural brows can get a very natural look with microblading, says Capparelli. However, microblading might not be good for someone with lots of natural eyebrow hair who wants their brows to look more brushed up or groomed (only a brow gel or brow lamination can do that).

There are potential downsides to microblading, as there are with any cosmetic procedure. Capparelli says that the biggest concern her clients have is how brow trends may shift in the future. Example: the thick, bold, Instagram brows of 2016 that were literally everywhere? Basically nonexistent now, which may not be ideal for someone who got theirs tattooed on and wants a change.

And, unfortunately, microblading can take anywhere from 1-3 years to fade on its own, so if you’re someone who tends to adapt your makeup to current trends, you might want to opt for a really soft, natural brow that you can still fill in and change up whenever you want.

The Appointment

Before your microblading appointment, reach out to your studio and ask how to prepare ahead of time, as each artist can have different guidelines. Capparelli, for example, asks clients to not groom their brows for six to eight weeks so she can do a full reshaping along with microblading. You should also stop using retinol, chemical exfoliants, and physical exfoliators at least one week before microblading, since they can make your skin extra sensitive.

You’ll also need to skip anything that could have a thinning effect on your blood, so avoid taking aspirin or vitamin E for 48 hours before your appointment, and skip drinking any caffeine or coffee the day of. Not only that, but if you're on antibiotics, you'll need to wait 14 days after your final dose before getting microblading, as antibiotics can make the pigment change color while healing.

You can get microblading from any brow tattoo specialist in your area. Both Capparelli and Aava recommend doing your research before booking with a technician. First of all, verify that the studio is certified and licensed, following all common safety practices. Before making an appointment, check out tagged Instagram photos to get insight into real reviews, or even DM them to ask for photos of healed results. Remember: Every brow artist has their own style, so check out their social media photos to get a feel for their specialty, whether that’s thick blocked brows, fluffy natural brows, or a mix of both.

Once you’ve found a place, consider asking them for a consultation. There, you can get a patch test to make sure you won’t be allergic to the ink the studio uses, check out the shade range so that there’s something that matches your skin tone and hair color, and connect on your exact goals.

What happens during a microblading appointment may differ depending on the artist. But generally, your artist will first take you through a full consultation, chatting through color options and your style preferences (don’t forget to bring inspo images of what you do and don’t want). They’ll then apply a topical numbing cream and let it sit for 30 minutes before drawing on your new brow shape with a dark pencil.

Note that a good microblading specialist can create the appearance of naturally full brows on any skin tone with any shade range, if you’re worried about the color not looking natural. For her clients, Aava creates a custom color using several shades that match your natural hair color, so your brows will look multidimensional and ~real~.

It’s also important to remember that the actual microblading process isn’t just a few single strokes across your skin—it actually requires a few rounds of numbing, pigmentation, and strokes. First, Capparelli says she makes a pass with the tool (without any pigment) to lay down where the “hairs” should be. Then, she adds some more numbing and, while that’s setting, works on shaping the brows (she uses tweezers to pluck any strays). Finally, she’ll go over those original strokes two more times with pigment to create the final look. The entire process takes about an hour, depending on your artist.

It sounds intense, but the results can be game-changing. In fact, when Cosmo’s previous beauty director, Carly Cardellino (featured here), tried microblading with Aava for the first time, she was hooked. “Post-microblading, I took about a hundred selfies and went off to spread the gospel to anyone who would listen,” she says. Still, don’t be alarmed if your brow color looks extremely dark right after your appointment—it’ll fade to its final, softer shade in about 10 to 12 days, so maybe wait a little bit before taking all the selfies.

Microblading aftercare

Microbladed brows will fully heal in about a month, but Capparelli warns that how well they heal will depend on how well you follow your artist’s aftercare instructions (see below!). Redness, swelling, and scabbing are all common after microblading in the first five to seven days, says Dr. Evans, so don’t be concerned if you experience them. But despite how tempting the scabs may look, do not pick at them, or you risk potential infection and prolonged healing.

Microblading aftercare is very important if you want a good result, says Capparelli. Every artist is a bit different, but in general, you shouldn’t sweat heavily, get your eyebrows wet, or be in the sun for seven days after getting microblading. Basically, now’s the time to hit pause on your workouts. If you’re, like, a professional athlete and you absolutely need to work out, Aava highly recommends covering your brows with antibiotic ointment first to protect the pigment and keep the cuts clean and bacteria-free.

Every provider will have different aftercare recommendations depending on your skin type and the exact ink they use, so make sure to write down everything they recommend as well. As a guideline, though, Aava also recommends applying an antibacterial ointment, along with a layer of Vaseline or Aquaphor, morning and night for a week to keep the area moist and protected. And, of course, make sure to avoid using any acids or retinoids until your brows fully heal, since they can fade the pigments.

If you’re someone who prefers a clean, groomed look, you will still have to pluck your eyebrows after microblading. Your eyebrow hairs will continue to grow like normal, so if you like to touch up stray hairs or shape your brows, you’ll still need to tweeze, wax, or thread.

Final thoughts

If you want a break from filling in your brows—or if you want to experience what full brows look like for the first time in your life—microblading might be your savior. Still, it’ll cost ya some cash, at least seven days without the gym, a morning without caffeine, and a week of potential scabbing. But if you’re the right candidate (and you can afford it), you may want to try it out so you never have to spend money on brow pencils or time in the morning filling in your arches again.

• Piret Aava is a cosmetic tattoo specialist, makeup artist, certified esthetician, and founder of Eyebrow Doctor, a studio for eyebrow shaping, microblading, and lip blushing in New York, NY; Miami, FL; Los Angeles, CA; and Greenwich, CT. Some of the celebrities she’s worked with include Serena Williams and Lara Spencer.
• Alixandria Capparelli is a brow artist in Orange County, CA. She is the founder of Hairy Little Things, a semi-permanent makeup studio for microblading, nanoblading, lip blushing, and brow shaping in California. She’s worked with celebrities like Paris Hilton, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Robin Roberts.
• Tracy Evans, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco, CA. She is also the medical director of Pacific Skin and Cosmetic Dermatology, and she has expertise in melasma, nonsurgical skin tightening, and laser treatments.

Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with eight years of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare and makeup stories. She regularly tests and analyzes makeup products and treatments for efficacy while working with the industry’s top makeup artists and dermatologists to assess new formulas and brands.

Jasmine Hyman is the assistant beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers everything from blowout tips to perfume trends. For this story, she, along with team Cosmo, spent hours researching the best products, practices, and tips for brow care.