The cortisol spike I get when I walk into a nail salon is borderline alarming. Selecting my nail shape along with a cute color and trendy design is hard enough—but then you’re handed a menu of manicure types that all sound similar and equally confusing? It’s a lot. Especially when your mood for the next two weeks depends entirely on what you leave with on your fingertips.
There are tons of manicure options—each suited to different nail types, lasting anywhere from three days to a month, and varying greatly in price—it’s hard to know what to choose. So I reached out to one of my most trusted nail experts, celebrity nail artist Julie Kandalec, to help breakdown every type of popular manicure option below—from Dazzle Dry to acrylics—so you’ll know exactly what to ask for at your next salon appointment.
A regular polish manicure is a classic nail service that involves filing, cutting, and grooming the nails, then applying a traditional nail polish (like your classic Essie or OPI), and there are also options such as Dazzle Dry that last a bit longer. A regular manicure typically includes a base coat, two coats of color, and a glossy topcoat for shine and protection. Unlike gel or acrylic options, it air-dries (no UV or LED lamp required) and can be easily removed at home with standard nail polish remover.
Who it's best for: Julie says regular polish manicures are “ideal for those who like to change their nail color once a week or more frequently, someone with already strong nails that doesn't need structure, or someone who wants an easy DIY mani quickly.”
A typical gel polish manicure involves prepping the nails before applying a bottled gel-based formula (like CND Shellac or OPI Gel Color) in layers. Each coat is cured under a UV or LED lamp, instantly hardening the polish into a glossy, durable finish. To remove it requires light filing followed by soaking in acetone.
Who it's best for: Julie suggests “a gel polish mani is great for someone who wants a shiny manicure and has pretty strong nails, and someone who is busy and doesn't want to wait for dry time.”
A powder manicure starts with a base coat, then the nails are dipped into finely milled powder in multiple layers to build color and strength, and finished with an activator and topcoat for a durable, long-lasting finish that’s thicker than regular polish. They’re typically removed by filing and soaking in acetone.
Who it's best for: “Dip nails are a durable nail coating, so they’re for people who want a bit of a thicker enhancement and work with their hands a lot,” Julie explains.
“A Russian manicure is a combination of a structured manicure and perfect cuticle detail work,” explains Julie. “This technique allows the gel to be placed further back than in a regular service, which allows for less growth to show between appointments, and they’re actually a total nail-saver to many, especially nail biters,” says Julie.
Who it's best for: A Russian manicure is perfect for anyone who wants precision and long-lasting results. It’s ideal for those who want flawless cuticles and minimal regrowth between appointments.
“Japanese gel is usually a soft gel and is very pigmented,” says Julie. Unlike standard gels, “they’re most often in a pot, not a bottle, made from pure gel with little to no solvents.” They last longer on the nail than traditional gels, but also require more effort to remove.
Who it's best for: “Japanese gel is best for someone who wears short to medium length nails and is very into nail art (which can run the gamut from 3D patterns, dangly charms and chains to simple textures like cat eye finishes),” explains Julie.
A structured manicure, also known as builder gel or BIAB (Builder in a Bottle), focuses on creating a strong, supportive base “that adds length and strength to the nails,” explains Julie. Once this structure is in place, you can apply your gel polish of choice on top, making the manicure both durable and customizable.
Who it's best for: Julie recommends structured gel for “someone who wants to grow their natural nails out, someone who likes to wear nail art, or someone with flat or concave nails because you can build the apex (the arch) of the nail.”
Acrylic nails are made by mixing a liquid with a powder that hardens into a strong, protective layer over your natural nails or extensions. Once shaped and air-dried, they give you a long-lasting manicure that can be customized in length, shape, and design.
Who it's best for: “Acrylic works well for someone who wears a lot of length and wants a hard enhancement since gel is flexible, and acrylic is hard,” Julie says.
Soft gel is a flexible, soak-off formula that cures under a lamp and feels lightweight on the nail. It’s typically used for gel polish (like OPI GelColor or DND Gel) and can be removed with acetone, making it ideal for natural nails.
Hard gel is thicker and more rigid, designed to add structure. This type of gel is used for builder manicures (like BIAB) or sculpted extensions. The removal process requires filing and soaking.
A fill (also known as a rebalance) is a maintenance service for enhancements like acrylics, hard gel, or builder gel. As your natural nails grow out, a gap forms near the cuticle—so the nail tech files down the old product, fills in that regrowth area with fresh product, and reshapes everything so the nails look smooth again.
“This will vary greatly based on demographic location, type of salon, and artist's experience,” explains Julie. Regular manicures can start at $15, but once you bring gel and nail art into the equation, they can go upwards of $100.
Julie Kandalec is a New York City and Los Angeles-based celebrity manicurist and educator. Her clients include Emily Blunt, Rachel McAdams, and more.
Jasmine Hyman is the assistant beauty editor at Cosmopolitan who writes about all things nails—from the latest polish launches to the newest nail trends. For this story, she used her expertise as a manicure-obsessed editor and tapped celebrity nail artist Julie Kandalec for her insight.
Jasmine Hyman is the Assistant Beauty Editor at Cosmopolitan, where she writes about the latest beauty trends and must-have products. Her most prized beauty possessions are a meticulous skincare routine and salon blowouts. You’ll also likely find her in bed reading a good book or endlessly scrolling TikTok (spoiler: it’s usually the latter) while listening to Harry Styles’ entire discography on repeat. Follow her on Insta to be inundated with pictures of her meals.
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