A vibrant splash of colour has arrived at the busy Green Park main market, making it impossible to miss Chef Ruchira Hoon’s latest venture even from across the street. With its bold pink and yellow façade and a gallery of playful posters, The Khow Suey Shop stands out instantly among the rows of local stores, South Indian eateries and cafes. Stepping away from the minimalist dining trend and muted colour palettes, the chef and restaurateur’s compact neighbourhood eatery has pops of vibrant colours, from the walls, to the chairs and tables, and even the kitchen counters. 

As the name suggests, The Khow Suey Shop is all about bringing comforting Southeast Asian flavours to South Delhi. It was during the pandemic that chef Ruchira, , who was delivering meals from her home kitchen, realised how popular her khow suey dumpling meals were. “We sold 80 portions the first day, 100 on the second and 200 on the third,” she recalls. So, when it was time to start a new brand, a khow suey and dumpling eatery was a no-brainer. 

Inspired by the hyper-focussed laksa bars of Singapore, the vibrant space is dedicated entirely to the joy of simple, feel-good eating. The menu zeroes in on a foolproof lineup of comfort food — customisable “hug-in-a-bowl” noodle soups, juicy dumplings, estate-sourced iced teas, and nostalgic tropical soft serves. “It’s cute, it’s focussed and it allows me to play with different soups of Southeast Asia. Come winters, and I’m sure we will introduce some pho,” she says.

We ordered a Burmese khow suey with prawns and udon noodles and a portion of spicy tomato mala with chicken and flat rice gluten-free noodles. The steaming hot bowls arrived within minutes and offered a mixed bag of distinct flavours. The khow suey was a hit in the texture department with plump prawns and thick udon noodles, but the broth itself felt a little under-seasoned, and we made good use of the chilli oil and other condiments kept on the table. On the other hand, the spicy tomato mala definitely didn’t lack flavour; the tongue-numbing heat was intense and the tomato base added a nice depth. This one’s not for the faint-hearted!

The fire in our mouths made us reach out for the iced teas – pandan & lychee with green tea and pineapple & coconut with black tea. Far from being cloyingly sweet, the beverages were restrained and relied on the natural flavours of the fruits and freshly brewed tea, sourced from a Dharamshala estate. We also ordered the chicken & chilli and prawn & chives dumplings, which were the standout items of the meal. They were packed with flavour and so juicy that even after they sat for a bit and went cold, they still retained their plump, soft texture without getting tough. Big kudos to the chef for that. A slightly more inventive house dipping sauce would have elevated the dish even further.

The meal came to an end with a pink guava chilli soft serve and a pandan & fresh fruits sundae. As a self-confessed soft serve lover who serves a mean filter coffee soft serve at her other restaurant — Draavin Canteen — chef Ruchira clearly knows how to handle frozen desserts. The pink guava was a lovely, comforting option, with the kick of chilli beautifully infused into the sweet fruit base. Meanwhile, the pandan ice cream offered a subtle, fragrant flavour profile that paired well with the freshness of the chopped kiwis, mangoes, and grapes.

Those dumplings and soft serves will definitely keep us coming back. It’s early days, and we’re already looking forward to seeing what winter soups join the lineup.

The Khao Suey Shop is at G-15, Green Park Main Market. A meal for two costs ₹1,400. For reservations call 9217325151.