I stitch myself up sometimes by planning on cooking something that’s native to a country – a Sri Lankan potato curry, say – then embellish it with my own desires (lemongrass, leeks, ginger) to such an extent that it can no longer really be called as such. But taste and memory work in mysterious ways. This recipe still evokes Sri Lanka for me: sunshine, spiced earth, the smell of cinnamon bundles and dense forest, and also the sound of the bread vans (playing Beethoven, curiously) and the distinctive squawk of the myna bird. I hope, if you cook it, it might evoke a little Sri Lankan sunshine for you, too.

Leek, potato and coconut curry

This recipe calls for one and a half tins of coconut milk, so use up the spare half-tin in a smoothie or dal. Buy fresh curry leaves from large supermarkets or an Asian one. Strip the leaves you don’t use, pack them well and freeze for another day. And use the whole leek, unless it’s really fibrous: soak the sliced greens and whites, then use your hands to scoop them into a colander to drain; don’t tip them out or any grit will get in your meal.

Prep 15 min
Cook 35 min
Serves 4

4 tbsp coconut oil
1 cinnamon stick
10 fresh curry leaves
1 tbsp black mustard seeds
4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
2cm x 2cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
2 green finger chillies, very finely chopped (remove the pith and seeds first, if you prefer less heat)
2 lemongrass stalks, outer husks and top third removed and discarded, the rest finely chopped
1 tsp ground turmeric
3 leeks (300g), whites and greens finely sliced, soaked and drained
1¾ tsp salt
800g baby potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-sized (3cm) chunks
1½ 400ml tins coconut milk
Roti, to serve

Put the oil in a wide, deep pan on a medium heat. Once it’s hot, add the cinnamon stick, curry leaves and mustard seeds, let them sizzle for 20-30 seconds, then add the garlic, ginger, chillies, lemongrass and turmeric, and cook, stirring, for two to three minutes, until fragrant. Add the leeks and half a teaspoon of salt, and cook for six to eight minutes more, until softened.

Add the potatoes and coconut milk, stir to mix, then add 250ml water and one and a quarter teaspoons of salt. Turn up the heat, bring to a gentle boil, then cover, turn down to a simmer and leave to cook for 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender (test with the tip of a small, sharp knife: it should slip through easily).

Take off the lid, let the curry reduce for a further five minutes, then serve with roti.