Albus Lumen is still a minimalist brand, but this season brought a welcome edge. While the modernist aesthetic prevails globally, in today’s popular clothing, the style is more often than not expressed through soft silhouettes, airy fabrics, and a clean yet gentle polish. Sometimes one can forget its radical origins—but not designer Marina Afonina. In her warehouse world under a massive, low-hanging blue light, lightweight nylon was still as sharp as a surprising pop of pool blue was angsty.

The designer recently celebrated 10 years, and the milestone has only made her sharpen her tools. As a result, the idea of a uniform and her own form of retrofuturism—that bridged ‘90s minimalism and what she called “futuristic maximalism”—took shape more distinctly in this season’s collection. Sharp suiting classics, like one blazer with a darted peplum shape, were at the forefront, where less rigid shapes might have been before. Monochromatic skirt suits took a strong stance, without veering into matronly or schoolyard territories. Even moments of silk organza and sequins, while feminine, retained a practical feel. “Sort of like Blade Runner, the movie came to mind.”

One thing is clear: Afonina has confidence in her vision. If anything, it’s the variable retail and global landscape that’s bringing out a more urgent side of both her creativity and production prowess. “I don't want to do a collection and sell it 6 months later,” she said. “Because you don't even know if you're going to sell it.” As a result, the collection will follow a “see now, buy soon” approach, with many of the pieces planned to be available for sale in just a month. There's nothing quite as efficient as a uniform, anyway.