Looking for a diamond that flatters your hand? You might want to look into marquise cut engagement rings. This football-shaped diamond is unique thanks to its long, curved middle and pointed tips that spreads beautifully along a finger. While this elongated stone has not been the most popular choice for engagement rings over the years, it has seen a recent resurgence thanks to a few celebrities (see: Selena Gomez) rocking the diamond shape on their left hands. Its rise is still relatively recent, which makes it stand out among the more popular oval and round stones.
Curious about selecting a marquise for your upcoming proposal? Ahead, we share all the details you need to know about marquise cut engagement rings, from how to select the best diamond to unique ways to set this stylish stone.
“A marquise diamond is an elongated, fancy-shaped diamond defined by its pointed ends and gently curved sides,” explains jeweler Stephanie Gottlieb. “Its distinctive silhouette creates the illusion of a larger stone that elongates the finger. Marquise diamonds were really popular in the 1970s and 1980s and are experiencing a major revival today, partially due to celebrities like Selena Gomez choosing this shape.”
The marquise diamond was first cut in 1745 at the request of King Louis XV of France, who had it made in homage to the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Her title is what gives this stone shape its name. It gained popularity again in the 1920s as well, as its curvature worked perfectly with the popular designs of the time.
“What I love most about a marquise is its ability to make a statement while still feeling timeless,” says Gottlieb. “It also offers a unique alternative to more traditional shapes while maintaining a sophisticated and vintage feel.” Another perk of a marquise as part of your engagement ring is that it often can look larger that its carat weight. While some cuts may hold more weight at the base of a stone, a marquise has its surface area spread. When looking to invest in a diamond, a smaller carat weight might actually be the right fit.
In 1998, David Beckham proposed to Victoria “Posh Spice” Adams with a marquise engagement ring, seen here.
Photo: Getty ImagesGIA grades diamonds are based on a scale of the “4Cs,” which often determines what their value will be. It’s important to consider this grading when purchasing a stone. “As with any diamond, the 4Cs—cut, color, clarity, and carat weight—are important, but cut is especially critical for marquise diamonds,” notes Gottlieb. “I pay close attention to symmetry, proportion, and the overall shape. You want balanced curves and well-matched points.”
While you might be looking at the clarity grading to find the best marquise diamond, there’s some other factors to consider in the grading. “Because the shape tends to show color more readily at the tips, I often recommend prioritizing color as well,” adds Gottlieb.
The way you set a marquise stone can absolutely change its style. A traditional solitaire setting is a favorite for those who want to take advantage of the elegant lenghtening effects of a marquise. With this setting, you can enhance it with a pavé band or halo setting. Others like going for a three-stone style with trillion-cut side stones or playing with direction in an east-west setting.
“I love our ‘Band and a Half’ setting for a marquise shape,” adds Gottlieb. “If the client wants something super unique, I love tilting it slightly. Because the points are more delicate than some other shapes, I typically recommend protective prongs or a bezel setting at the tips.”
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Photo: Courtesy of Stephanie Gottlieb
As you enter the engagement ring shopping process, it’s important to look at each individual stone to see how it spreads. Some marquise can be long and thin, while others are a bit more rounded. “Marquises can also show a bow-tie effect, so it’s important to evaluate how the stone performs in person,” says Gottlieb. “For someone looking for a shape that stands out and appears larger than its carat weight, a marquise is an amazing choice. Just make sure you work with an expert who understands what to prioritize when finding your dream stone.”
Photo: Getty Images
When Aristotle Onassis proposed to Jacqueline Kennedy, he gave her a 40-carat marquise diamond ring. Thanks to its huge size and value, the former first lady often elected to keep the engagement ring in a safe. Despite it being hidden away, we still find ourselves impressed with the gorgeous style that would, every so often, take up real estate on the fashion icon’s ring finger.
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