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The Guardian

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‘A diverse and convivial village’: the urban eye candy of...
Alexis Stein · 2026-05-03 · via The Guardian

Why go now

Named for its 19th-century neoclassical church, Notre-Dame du Mont was once a site where sailors who’d survived shipwrecks and storms made offerings of thanks. Now locals and visitors make a pilgrimage to this vibrant quarter for its restaurants, indie shops and street art. Voted Time Out’s coolest neighbourhood in the world in 2024, Notre-Dame du Mont has retained its laid-back charm while continuing to grow, stretching south on Rue de Lodi. Since December 2025, the church’s parvis has been pedestrianised. Removing the urban roar of scooters has returned the quarter to its village-like ambience – best enjoyed on one of the many tree-lined terraces.

Where to eat and drink

A fresh salad on a small plate.
Fennel salad at Bonnie’s bistro. Photograph: Annie Etheridge

The quarter reflects Marseille’s flourishing culinary scene: diverse, convivial and amplified by young chefs like Scot Megan Moore, who cooks up comfort fare with culinary heft at Bonnies. Its playlists and live jazz nights echo the vintage vibe of this former watering hole. For a taste of the Mediterranean, tuck into small plates and natural wines at Nabu & Jéro wine bar.

For food sur le pouce (on the go), check out the huge sandwiches at Razzia, which you can eat while soaking up the sun on their patio. Down the street at Durum, Sofiane Benouamane traded in his chef whites to make Levantine wraps stuffed with the most succulent meats – so gourmet that the tiny snack bar is lauded by the French gastronomic guide Gault & Millau.

Eco-friendly boulangerie Ferments creates baked delights to enjoy with small-batch coffee. For a slice of Marseille’s signature dish, order a wood-fired moitchié-moitchié (half anchovy, half emmental) at La Bella Pizza. Or, follow the scent of freshly baked crust to the Chez Papa pizza truck at the entrance to the Notre-Dame du Mont metro stop.

Where to shop

Provisions’ shelves are laden with food, wine and culinary books.
Provisions’ shelves are laden with food, wine and culinary books. Photograph: Annie Etheridge2023/Annie Etheridge

Food is also on the menu at many of Notre-Dame du Mont’s shops. Provisions’ wooden shelves are laden with an array of foodstuffs, wine and culinary books, including a small selection in English. Stay for a locally sourced lunch in the cosy shop. The fragrant tea library Lorène Millet brims with more than 200 varieties, and – thankfully – expert staff to help you choose.

Mo:stera Concept Store feeds many interests – coffee, plants and books, with a penchant for manga and graphic novels. A pioneer of the neighbourhood, the vintage fashion shop Out of Space is chock-a-block with retro finds for men and women. Digitale Pourpre stocks a well-curated selection of clothes from independent designers, while Digger Club has a funky mix of vintage finds.

Cultural experiences

The front of the bar has a huge illustrated cat made of coloured letters around the door.
La Cave À Vinyle. Photograph: Annie Etheridge

Zones is a gallery that spotlights photographers from the city and the region, and owner Alice Ducheix makes photography “more accessible” by selling affordable prints. La Baleine shows arthouse films in its intimate 88-seat cinema plus restaurant.

La Cave à Vinyle is a bar with the feel of hanging out in the living room of a friend who’s obsessed with music and wine; sample natural, biodynamic bottles to an eclectic soundtrack, from French crooner Jacques Dutronc to the West African fusion Rail Band. Garage, one of Marseille’s many comedy clubs, hosts English-speaking comics on Friday nights.

Don’t miss

A small, tiled street with graffiti and plants.
Cours Julien street art. Photograph: Salla Dinho/Alamy

At Rue de Village and Rue de Lodi, marvel at the view of Marseille’s most famous monument – and highest point – La Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. Stroll over to Cours Julien, the adjacent district, for urban eye candy. Every facade is painted with colourful street art, including the ever-changing staircase that descends to Cours Lieutaud.

Where to stay

Live like a local in the modern rooms with kitchenettes at the 18-room Maison Juste (doubles from €90). Sister property Grand Juste is a former convent with 50 rooms (sleeping up to six people) and a sunny garden (doubles from €93).