Modularity is one of the most widely used quality measures for graph clusterings. Maximizing modularity is NP-hard, and the runtime of exact algorithms is prohibitive for large graphs. A simple and effective class of heuristics coarsens the graph by iteratively merging clusters (starting from singletons), and optionally refines the resulting clustering by iteratively moving individual vertices between clusters. Several heuristics of this type have been proposed in the literature, but little is known about their relative performance. This paper experimentally compares existing and new coarsening- and refinement-based heuristics with respect to their effectiveness (achieved modularity) and efficiency (runtime). Concerning coarsening, it turns out that the most widely used criterion for merging clusters (modularity increase) is outperformed by other simple criteria, and that a recent algorithm by Schuetz and Caflisch is no improvement over simple greedy coarsening for these criteria. Concerning refinement, a new multi-level algorithm is shown to produce significantly better clusterings than conventional single-level algorithms. A comparison with published benchmark results and algorithm implementations shows that combinations of coarsening and multi-level refinement are competitive with the best algorithms in the literature.