We describe a randomized algorithm for producing a near-optimal hierarchical off-diagonal low-rank (HODLR) approximation to an $n\times n$ matrix $\mathbf{A}$, accessible only though matrix-vector products with $\mathbf{A}$ and $\mathbf{A}^{\mathsf{T}}$. We prove that, for the rank-$k$ HODLR approximation problem, our method achieves a $(1+β)^{\log(n)}$-optimal approximation in expected Frobenius norm using $O(k\log(n)/β^3)$ matrix-vector products. In particular, the algorithm obtains a $(1+\varepsilon)$-optimal approximation with $O(k\log^4(n)/\varepsilon^3)$ matrix-vector products, and for any constant $c$, an $n^c$-optimal approximation with $O(k \log(n))$ matrix-vector products. Apart from matrix-vector products, the additional computational cost of our method is just $O(n \operatorname{poly}(\log(n), k, β))$. We complement the upper bound with a lower bound, which shows that any matrix-vector query algorithm requires at least $Ω(k\log(n) + k/\varepsilon)$ queries to obtain a $(1+\varepsilon)$-optimal approximation. Our algorithm can be viewed as a robust version of widely used "peeling" methods for recovering HODLR matrices and is, to the best of our knowledge, the first matrix-vector query algorithm to enjoy theoretical worst-case guarantees for approximation by any hierarchical matrix class. To control the propagation of error between levels of hierarchical approximation, we introduce a new perturbation bound for low-rank approximation, which shows that the widely used Generalized Nyström method enjoys inherent stability when implemented with noisy matrix-vector products. We also introduce a novel randomly perforated matrix sketching method to further control the error in the peeling algorithm.