We consider the problem of testing graph cluster structure: given access to a graph $G=(V, E)$, can we quickly determine whether the graph can be partitioned into a few clusters with good inner conductance, or is far from any such graph? This is a generalization of the well-studied problem of testing graph expansion, where one wants to distinguish between the graph having good expansion (i.e.\ being a good single cluster) and the graph having a sparse cut (i.e.\ being a union of at least two clusters). A recent work of Czumaj, Peng, and Sohler (STOC'15) gave an ingenious sublinear time algorithm for testing $k$-clusterability in time $\tilde{O}(n^{1/2} \text{poly}(k))$: their algorithm implicitly embeds a random sample of vertices of the graph into Euclidean space, and then clusters the samples based on estimates of Euclidean distances between the points. This yields a very efficient testing algorithm, but only works if the cluster structure is very strong: it is necessary to assume that the gap between conductances of accepted and rejected graphs is at least logarithmic in the size of the graph $G$. In this paper we show how one can leverage more refined geometric information, namely angles as opposed to distances, to obtain a sublinear time tester that works even when the gap is a sufficiently large constant. Our tester is based on the singular value decomposition of a natural matrix derived from random walk transition probabilities from a small sample of seed nodes. We complement our algorithm with a matching lower bound on the query complexity of testing clusterability. Our lower bound is based on a novel property testing problem, which we analyze using Fourier analytic tools. As a byproduct of our techniques, we also achieve new lower bounds for the problem of approximating MAX-CUT value in sublinear time.