The best reason to road-trip to Monte Rio right now isn’t the new pizza spot. But that’s a pretty good place to start.
Wonderland Pizzeria opened last month across the street from the main public beach, giving Monte Rio a cheese-laden vote of confidence and a much-needed place to gather.
The pizzeria, which has a tastefully landscaped beer garden, takes its name from the riverfront hamlet’s slogan, which, for decades, has arched over the main drag on a landmark sign recently restored to its former glory. It reads: “Welcome to Monte Rio: Vacation Wonderland.”
It’s hard not to chuckle at the thought. Yes, the exclusive, all-men’s Bohemian Club has its Bohemian Grove here — a 2,700-acre private campground founded in 1878 that has housed rock stars, princes, and presidents. But for most normal folks, Monte Rio is anchored by the dusty, corrugated-metal-clad Rio Theater; the pragmatic, old-school Bartlett’s Market; and the seismically precarious (opens in new tab) Bohemian Highway five-span pony truss bridge, which crosses a lazy bend of the Russian River. It’s hardly a top-tier destination.
However, the gap between the slogan’s overpromise and Monte Rio’s scruffy reality is exactly why you should choose to be there. People who like polished and bougie will stick to Healdsburg; those who prefer a down-home, main-street scene will head to Guerneville. But if you like a beautiful place that’s a little rough around the edges, bookmark Monte Rio.
It’s a place with a lot of potential that you secretly hope is never completely fulfilled. A full-blown wonderland might be more than Monte Rio — and the people who love it — could handle.
Here’s how to make the most of a two-night trip.
You could drive directly to Monte Rio from San Francisco in an hour and 45 minutes, but it’s more fun to give yourself a few hours to meander. On a recent trip to Sonoma, we took the coastal route, winding our way north through Jenner, the tiny village that serves as the Russian River’s outlet to the Pacific.
For years, the go-to spot there has been the cute, counter-service Cafe Aquatica (opens in new tab) (10439 CA-1, Jenner), owned and run by Rachel Kulinski. There are salads, sandwiches, and trendy tins of fish for sale. But you’re there for the delicious clam chowder, full of chunky potatoes in a thin, creamy broth.
Just this month, Kulinski has expanded. In the same building, she opened Jenner Outpost (opens in new tab), a little store hawking culinary provisions and locally made jewelry like hippie-chic Dancing Willow earrings and artwork by Bodhi Hope.
Even more exciting is The Siren’s Cellar (opens in new tab), the adjacent wine bar slated to open at the end of June. It will be run by Kulinski’s fiancé, Patrick Cappiello, who worked for years as a sommelier in New York City and has most recently been making natural wine for his label Monte Rio Cellars. The bar will serve Cappiello’s wines by the glass, as well as a staggering 1,000 bottles, both local (Lioco and Ceritas) and European. Snacks will also be available. There will be live music every weekend (opens in new tab), and it all comes with a river view so close you could sip your drink while dipping your toes in the cold water.
From Jenner, it’s only about 15 minutes east on Highway 116 to the Vacation Wonderland itself. There are essentially three things to do in and around Monte Rio: hike, eat, and float in the river. For hikes, the choices are endless.
Locals will point you to Monte Rio Redwoods Regional Park (opens in new tab), for good reason. Last summer, it quadrupled in size when Save the Redwoods League purchased 1,517 acres of coast redwood forest and transferred it to Sonoma County. The park is now more than 2,000 acres.
The closest trailhead is at 9610 Main St (opens in new tab)., best accessed by car because the narrow shoulder on the road doesn’t make for optimal walking. After your hike, cross the street for a quick stroll along Dutch Bill Creek, which runs through a dreamy redwood grove full of California bay laurel and a blanket of redwood sorrel.
Another go-to hiking option is Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve (opens in new tab) (17000 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville), well worth the 15-minute drive east. Pack sandwiches from the Piknik Town Market (opens in new tab) (16228 Main St., Guerneville) and set out for the uphill but very doable 3-mile roundtrip Pool Ridge Trail.
Wonderland Pizzeria (opens in new tab) (20391 Hwy 116, Monte Rio) owner Brian Perloff moved from Petaluma to Monte Rio around 12 years ago and never looked back: “It’s the most beautiful community I’ve ever lived in in my life.” The first-time restaurant owner slings generously sized, charred wood-fired pies at reasonable prices (get the sausage with red peppers and n’jdua, $24) and “the coldest beer in Sonoma.” He’s well aware that his beloved town of 676 and declining (opens in new tab) needs an infusion of energy. “There are a lot of hardworking people here, and everybody wants the town to build itself up and succeed,” he says.
On a weekday, the communal picnic tables in the garden are an eclectic mix of Bohemian Clubbers (“We just had a couple of oil tycoons here,” Perloff said), teenagers still wet from the river playing ping-pong; and locals gathered around the fire pit. Perloff has more plans up his sleeve for the future, including shows by big-name bands.
Lightwave Cafe (opens in new tab) (9725 Main St., Monte Rio), owned and run by Gal and Ori Ginzburg, is, hands down, the hippest spot in Monte Rio. The young couple, originally from Jerusalem and New York, respectively, opened the cafe in 2018 and have tricked it out with what looks a bit like a well-curated flea market, as well as funky and stylish swag.
The menu leans Middle Eastern. For a perfect brunch, get the shashuka, a poached egg in a light sauce full of red bell peppers and tomatoes, with a fluffy pita. The burekas plate is another great choice, featuring two cheese-and-spinach-filled flaky pastries served with tahini, salad, egg, and pickles. Then grab a coffee, sit on the covered outdoor deck, and gaze at the next-door community garden as you scheme about the possibility of moving to Monte Rio forever.
Some of the most fun things happening in Monte Rio are one-offs and pop-ups, many of them at the enthusiastically named Monte Rio Theater & Extravaganza (20396 Bohemian Highway, Monte Rio). The single-screen cinema is housed in a vintage World War II-era Quonset hut. The theater had been “saved” numerous times until a couple of years ago, when it was saved (hopefully) forever (opens in new tab). Earmark Sept. 25-27, when the River & Redwoods Film Festival (opens in new tab) returns; until then, follow the theater’s Instagram (opens in new tab) for free open-mic nights. On the first Friday of the month, Johnny Venetti, who owns the Hoot Owl (opens in new tab), a Monte Rio art collective, serves a pasta dinner and a Western for a true “Spaghetti Western.”
Spend an early afternoon poking around the funky mix of shops in Duncan Mills, a historic lumber-mill town a 10-minute drive west from Monte Rio. Before you head back, grab provisions at the Duncan Mills General Store (opens in new tab) (25200 Highway 116), which has everything from Mt. Tam cheese to bottles of Pliny the Elder.
As for where to plunk down for a picnic, there’s the public beach in the center of town — a reminder that America has always been great. Reggaetón floats from portable speakers, kids splash around the shallows, and adults can rent paddle boards.
For a pretty, quieter beach, try the lovely Patterson Point Preserve (opens in new tab), a 2-acre community-owned property that threads through a redwood forest, past a sign ID’ing the birds and fauna in the vicinity, and down to the water.
Instead of driving back the way you came, head down the Bohemian Highway through the cute town of Occidental, where you can enjoy a lunch of kale salad with rotisserie chicken and miso dressing ($24) at the Altamont General Store (opens in new tab) (3703 Main St.). From there, continue a few minutes farther to Freestone for a cedar enzyme bath at Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary (opens in new tab) (209 Bohemian Highway, Freestone).
The treatment involves submitting your naked body to be buried in what could probably be used for mulch; the enzymes in it get as hot as a sauna. Twenty minutes later, you emerge like a limp noodle, ready for a little time in the perfectly manicured Japanese garden. It’s roughly an hour and a half drive to the city — that is, if you don’t come to your senses, call in sick, and head straight back to Monte Rio.
此内容由惯性聚合(RSS阅读器)自动聚合整理，仅供阅读参考。 原文来自 — 版权归原作者所有。