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Style Edit: Chow Tai Fook’s Dawn collection, where elegan...
SCMP Style R · 2026-05-07 · via South China Morning Post

Tang dynasty Baoxiang florals, classy enamel hues and fluid gold craftsmanship make for a timeless collection of rings, bangles and necklaces

Chow Tai Fook has long favoured a measured approach to design – one that avoids excess while maintaining a clear sense of identity. The Dawn collection continues the tradition, using the idea of daybreak as a subtle framework, expressed through a softer, more balanced visual language.

Central to the Chow Tai Fook Dawn collection is the Baoxiang flower motif. Photo: Handout

Central to the Chow Tai Fook Dawn collection is the Baoxiang flower motif. Photo: Handout

At its centre is the Baoxiang flower, a four-petal motif deeply rooted in Chinese decorative history and widely seen during the Tang dynasty across objects of both ritual and everyday use. Here, it is revisited with a lighter hand. The underlying geometry remains, but the edges are gently softened, allowing the form to feel less ornamental and more fluid in its expression.

Chow Tai Fook Dawn collection features black or red enamel in a gold setting. Photo: Handout

Chow Tai Fook Dawn collection features black or red enamel in a gold setting. Photo: Handout

The palette is deliberately restrained. Black and red enamel sit against gold, creating contrast that feels composed rather than decorative. Black brings depth and quiet intensity, while red introduces warmth and vitality – both colours carrying cultural meaning without overwhelming the design. Gold acts as a unifying element, outlining each motif and lending a soft, natural glow.

Diamonds are sparingly used in the Chow Tai Fook Dawn collection. Photo: Handout

Diamonds are sparingly used in the Chow Tai Fook Dawn collection. Photo: Handout

Craftsmanship runs quietly through the collection. The enamel work has a smooth, almost fluid quality, while polished gold surfaces catch the light with ease. Openwork details introduce a sense of airiness, and diamonds are used sparingly – more as accents than focal points – allowing the floral motif to remain central.

A chain with linked motifs in the Chow Tai Fook Dawn collection. Photo: Handout

A chain with linked motifs in the Chow Tai Fook Dawn collection. Photo: Handout

There is also a considered rhythm in the use of space. Some pieces are pared back, giving a single motif room to breathe, creating a sense of calm and balance. Others are more layered, where repeated forms build a gentle sense of movement. A chain design introduces a contemporary note, with linked motifs that follow the natural line of the body without appearing structured.

The Chow Tai Fook Dawn collection includes rings, bangles and necklaces. Photo: Handout

The Chow Tai Fook Dawn collection includes rings, bangles and necklaces. Photo: Handout

Spanning rings, bangles and necklaces, the collection is designed with versatility in mind. Each piece can stand alone or be layered with ease, reflecting a more personal and adaptable approach to jewellery today.