Assessing software test coverage at scale remains a bottleneck in QA pipelines. We present LLM-as-a-Judge (LAJ), a production-ready, rubric-driven framework for evaluating Gherkin acceptance tests with structured JSON outputs. Across 20 model configurations (GPT-4, GPT-5 with varying reasoning effort, and open-weight models) on 100 expert-annotated scripts over 5 runs (500 evaluations), we provide the first comprehensive analysis spanning accuracy, operational reliability, and cost. We introduce the Evaluation Completion Rate (ECR@1) to quantify first-attempt success, revealing reliability from 85.4% to 100.0% with material cost implications via retries. Results show that smaller models can outperform larger ones: GPT-4o Mini attains the best accuracy (6.07 MAAE), high reliability (96.6% ECR@1), and low cost ($1.01 per 1K), yielding a 78x cost reduction vs. GPT-5 (high reasoning) while improving accuracy. Reasoning effort is model-family dependent: GPT-5 benefits from increased reasoning (with predictable accuracy-cost tradeoffs), whereas open-weight models degrade across all dimensions as reasoning increases. Overall, cost spans 175x ($0.45-$78.96 per 1K). We release the dataset, framework, and code to support reproducibility and deployment.