Bridget Gleeson Travel Writer

You'll spot it from far away, if you asked for a window seat on the plane. Welcome to Sin City – an oasis of glittering lights in the desert, home of the Strip and the drive-in wedding chapel, playground of the Mob, and a visual spectacle complete with its own Eiffel Tower, Egyptian pyramids and Venetian canals.

Las Vegas is a place that's defined as much by vintage camp as by futuristic innovation, where the 24-hour casinos exist alongside world-class dining, sleek hotels and thrilling entertainment, from the acrobatic stylings of Cirque du Soleil to the High Roller, a massive observation wheel. The nightlife is legendary, whether you're moving to the rhythm of DJ-spun beats on a dance floor lined with gold, or standing on an open-air terrace, drink in hand, taking in the sweeping views of neon-lit resorts and casinos below. This is Vegas, baby.

• How to spend your weekend
• When to go
• Where to stay

Just arrived in Sin City? There's no better place to start than with a photo op beside a retro landmark: the "Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada" sign. If you're taking a taxi into town from the airport, you'll spot it as you enter the southern end of the Strip, just south of Mandalay Bay. You'll know where to pull over; there's always a crowd of cars and a constant flash of cameras.

Then continue north along the Strip and enjoy the replicas of famous buildings from the car window: the Empire State Building and the Luxor pyramid on your left, and the faux Eiffel Tower on your right. Say goodbye to your taxi driver at the Bellagio and head straight for the jaw-dropping floral displays at the Bellagio Conservatory & Botanical Garden. The exhibition changes five times a year, with themes such as "Under the Sea" and "Japanese Spring".

If you're in the mood for an elegant lunch, head to the Venetian for a Parisian-style meal at Bouchon, where specialties include steamed mussels, freshly baked baguettes and oysters. Afterwards, go for a gondola ride along the resort's man-made canals. Whether you choose an indoor or outdoor ride, your gondolier will play his part, serenading you as you float under bridges and past canalside cafés.

If you'd rather shop, grab a quick lunch at one of the casual eateries inside The Shops at Crystals, the futuristic shopping mall at CityCenter. This eco-friendly space is as famous for its water installations and lush indoor foliage as for its high-end boutiques. Or hit up the hipster-friendly Cosmopolitan for gourmet tacos, great coffee places and shops catering to stylish millennials.

Ready for your first drink in Vegas? Make it a classy one: The Chandelier, which "hangs" in the centre of the Cosmopolitan, is the perfect spot to make a toast.

At sunset, you'll want to be on board the High Roller observation wheel – it's taller than the London Eye, and the 30-minute ride offers unbeatable views over the glittering Strip and the desert beyond. Afterwards, enjoy a quick viewing of the famous fountain show outside the Bellagio from the sidewalk, or from the vantage point of the Mayfair Supper Club inside the resort.

Then have dinner at Bardot Brasserie, the Parisian-style restaurant at Aria, before catching a Cirque du Soleil show at one of the Strip's many specialised theatres. Opt for a classic performance such as "Mystère" (at Treasure Island), or splash out on an aquatic show, such as the legendary "O" (at the Bellagio).

Finish the night at one of Vegas's classic superclubs, such as posh XS at Encore, where the walls are lined with real gold, or the cool rooftop club Marquee, located at the Cosmopolitan.

Today's the day to enjoy the vintage charm of downtown Las Vegas. Start with a stroll down the neon-lit Fremont Street Experience, a pedestrian-only promenade that's a 24/7 spectacle, complete with a zip line, live entertainment and vendors selling supersized cocktails. If you'd like to learn the basics of blackjack, now's a good time to stop into one of the neighbourhood's classic casinos for a free lesson.

Otherwise, spend a couple of hours at the mafia-themed Mob Museum. Housed in a restored former courthouse that dates from 1933, it offers a fascinating overview of the city’s history of organised crime, and of the mafia’s role in developing casino-resorts as we know them today.

Have lunch at Pizza Rock, where the co-founder, Tony Gemignani, is a 13-time World Pizza Champion. Pizza purists should go for the Burratina di Margherita, a Sicilian-style pizza with burrata cheese, cherry tomatoes, basil and balsamic reduction, or opt for something a little more avant garde such as the Cal Italia, with asiago, prosciutto, mozzarella, gorgonzola, fig preserve and balsamic reduction.

Then head over to the Golden Nugget hotel and casino to check out the shark tank, a 200,000-gallon, three-storey-tall aquarium filled with silvery swimming sharks. A one-of-a-kind tube waterslide cuts right through the tank – you have to be a hotel guest to try it, but buying a day pass is also an option.

As the sun goes down, stroll along the outdoor sections of the Neon Museum around Fremont Street, where retro signs – including vintage motel relics and a larger-than-life glittering martini glass – add a neon glow to the evening.

Stop into Carson Kitchen, a gastropub with industrial-style décor that's popular with locals, for dinner and drinks. Many plates are meant for sharing. Try the crispy chicken skins or barbecue burnt ends to start, then have a short-rib grilled cheese on sourdough. Afterwards, stop for 1930s-inspired cocktails at Commonwealth, a Prohibition-themed bar with a speakeasy section that's only available via text message reservation – check the website for details.

Finish with a night cap alongside locals at Lucky Day, a tequila bar with seating beneath a striking canopy of 15,000 LED lights. Sip rare mezcal and take in the bar’s collection of quirky Vegas memorabilia while DJ-spun Latin house music enlivens the colourful space.

Downtown Las Vegas – which is rapidly being revitalised – is the go-to neighbourhood for farm-to-table cuisine, vintage shopping and craft cocktails with a local crowd. Start at Fremont Street and explore the area from there. Highlights include the Griffin and Oak & Ivy.

On the High Roller, stake out a corner spot by the window (on your right as you enter the car) for the best views of Sin City.

Hop on the Deuce, a handy (and inexpensive) bus that runs 24/7 along the Strip and into downtown. A two-hour pass costs $8 (£6).

You can buy a pass to access luxurious resort spas such as the sleek Qua Baths & Spa at Caesars Palace (from $90 [£68] for three hours). After a dip in the warm pools, cool down in the Arctic Ice Room. Artificial snow falls inside – it's billed as the only venue of its kind in the world.

It’s true that drinks are free if you’re gambling in a Vegas casino. Just be sure to tip the server accordingly.

Artists with Vegas residencies in 2026 include the Backstreet Boys, Cyndi Lauper, Mary J. Blige, Phish, Marc Anthony, Kelly Clarkson and New Kids on the Block.

One of Sin City’s newest Cirque du Soleil shows, the futuristic and fanciful "Awakening" at the Wynn Las Vegas, was voted Best Production Show in Vegas by the Southern Nevada Hotel Concierge Association. Staged in a custom 360-degree theatre and featuring narration by Oscar winner Anthony Hopkins, it's a spectacle for the senses.

Las Vegas is a destination to visit any time. Casino doors never shut, not even for Christmas. Spring and autumn are the most temperate times to visit. In summer, the heat and humidity can be oppressive, although it's also when Vegas's pool season peaks. Winter weather is cold and rainy, but snow is rare except in the mountains outside the city. New Year's Eve is by far the biggest annual event, when room rates skyrocket and every hotel for miles around is booked out.

As a guest at the Bellagio, you're not only located mid way along the Strip, you're also set back a tasteful distance from the tourist crowds. As well as the huge casino and array of shops, the hotel boasts perhaps the best selection of pools in the city, with indulgent cabana and day bed options aplenty. For entertainment and nightlife, the Cirque du Soleil show "O" is based in the hotel's theatre and for an even higher brow experience, there's a wonderful gallery of fine art.

This is one of the glitziest of the Las Vegas hotels. The Cosmopolitan's cutting-edge interior design details stretch throughout the hotel, and each corner reveals another striking, illuminated staircase or interactive sculpture. Beyond the gaming floor, the upper levels of restaurants and shops also enjoy creative, whimsical layouts, with themed seating areas (such as Alice in Wonderland) and a litany of artistic visual distractions to discover.

"Iconic" is an often-misused word, but in the case of this sparkling, glittering throwback to the glory days of Las Vegas, it's entirely appropriate. From the name – Golden Nugget – blazed in a golden arch, to the (revamped but still vintage) interiors, there's much to love and cherish about the place. The most renowned amenities here is the pool – or pools – which boast a waterslide through a shark tank aquarium.

• British Consulate-General, Los Angeles: 00 1 310 789 0031
  
• Emergency services (ambulance, fire, police): Dial 911
• Police (non-emergencies): Dial 311
• Las Vegas Visitor Information Center: 3150 Paradise Rd, Las Vegas. 00 1 702 892 7575, 00 1 877 847 4858; lasvegas.com.

• Currency: US dollar
• Telephone code: +1/00 1 (702)
• Time difference: -8 hours
• Flight times: London to Las Vegas is less than 11 hours

• The legal age for drinking alcohol and gambling is 21. Carry photo ID with you as proof of age when visiting bars, nightclubs, liquor stores, etc. Anyone under 21 is not allowed inside casinos, although you won't likely be stopped just walking through.
• You must be at least 18 years old to smoke or purchase tobacco. Smoking is prohibited at cinemas, shopping malls, indoor restaurants and some bars that serve food. Look for an ashtray before lighting up, or ask first if smoking is allowed.
• Prostitution is illegal in Clark County, which includes the city of Las Vegas. Nevada's legal brothels are located in rural areas far outside the city.