An insider guide to Greece's most exclusive island, from A-list hangouts to sacred historical sites
Laura Millar Destination Expert
Published
These days, Mykonos is mentioned in the same breathy terms as Ibiza, Dubai or Miami as the ultimate party destination – yet it has appealed to A-list celebrities and those who embrace an alternative lifestyle since the Fifties and Sixties. Back then, those stars included Brigitte Bardot and Jackie Onassis; today you’re more likely to find Leonardo Di Caprio, Kendall Jenner and Lindsay Lohan (who even has her own beach club on Kalo Livadi beach). But despite being commonly held to be among the most expensive, and exclusive, Greek islands, it holds enduring appeal.
Why? It’s progressive, yes – you’ll find gay and nudist beaches, such as Super Paradise and Elia – and also profoundly beautiful. Stroll round the alluring main town, known simply as Mykonos or Chora by some locals, past sugar-cube-shaped buildings, their chalk-white walls accentuated by bright blue doors and shutters, and framed by colourful flowers. History and culture abound too, particularly on the nearby island of Delos, a sacred site held to be the birthplace of Apollo. Nothing changes, or happens, very fast here.
Stroll through the labyrinthine streets to Gioras Wood Medieval Bakery, the oldest bakery on the island, dating from the 17th century. Stock up on traditional pastries such as perek, round savoury pies usually filled with cheese, hortopita, a tart-like filo pie stuffed with wild greens, or tiropita, triangular-shaped snacks filled with feta and eggs. Wash it down with a bracing espresso freddo (a classic cold coffee drink here).
Around 9am you should still have the streets mostly to yourself, bar the island's industrious workers who buzz about in minivans and mopeds making deliveries to bars and restaurants, meaning you can forge, unencumbered, to its most picturesque parts, such as the five Windmills of Kato Mili, which sit on a small hill above Little Venice. There used to be dozens on the island, mostly built by the Venetians in the 16th century, but their use as wheat mills died out in the early 20th.
Keep your camera ready as you wander five minutes north to the Panagia Paraportiani – known as "Our Lady of the Side Gate" as it was next to the entrance to the old castle – the most photographed orthodox church on Mykonos, thanks to its unusual, white-washed structure. It’s actually five churches in one.
Plan your trip
Board one of the regular public buses from Fabrika Square to your choice of beach for the day. One of the most enduringly popular (and yes, my favourite) is picture-perfect Paradise, with its long sweep of pebbly sand. Established in 1969, it houses a campsite, cafeteria, and a couple of beach clubs.
Lounger hire on the sand costs from around €25 (£21 – and are usually rented as a pair, including an umbrella from around €50/£42). Or you could set up by the saltwater pool at Paradise Beach Club's more secluded pool bar, where the only requirement in return for a (more comfortable) lounger is to buy food and/or drink during the day. They do all the usuals you'd expect, such as Greek salads, burgers, halloumi sandwiches and more. The music gets progressively louder as the afternoon goes on; prepare to see people dancing on the main beachside bar by 5pm as the DJ whips them into a frenzy.
Plan your trip
Head to Little Venice for a sundowner – but get there early to bag a table with the best view at one of the bars which line the waterfront. Try BAO's, named after a former local pirate, George Bao, who raided ships from his base at a small island opposite, and sup on one of their signature cocktails, such as The Mandarin, with fresh mandarin juice, gin and lime.
For a filling bite, try the seafood spaghetti at Pasta Fresca Barkia, which has been making fresh pasta daily since 1978. It’s one of my absolute favourite dishes, not least because the portion size is incredibly generous. Afterwards, if you dare, follow the crowds around the corner to the legendary Skandinavian Bar, where partying and people-watching are the order of the night.
Start the day slowly with a visit to a café at the Old Port; try Kazarma, one of several lining the waterfront, for a reviving veggie omelette and brown toast. If you’re lucky, you might spot one of the island’s three treasured pelicans hovering by the fish market for scraps.
Then visit the Folklore Museum next to Paraportiani church to get an idea of how people used to live, work, and dress in the 19th century. Still hungry? Pop to my infallible go-to, Leonidas, a basic but popular kebab shop for a Greek salad, chargrilled pork gyro, or chicken souvlaki. Everything here is tasty and filling, and most items are only around €5-7.
Plan your trip
Spend the afternoon exploring the charming village of Ano Mera (reached by bus from the Old Port). It is quieter and more peaceful than Chora, and has a few historic sites worth visiting, such as the ruins of Gyzi Castle, built under Venetian rule, and the intact Paleokastro Monastery, both of which offer fabulous views from their higher vantage points. One of the most impressive, however, is the Panagia Tourliani Monastery, built in 1542, and covered inside with brightly painted icons, an altar screen painted by Florentine artists, and dragon-shaped incense holders.
After the heat of the day has died down, take a trip to Delos. You’ll find a range of tours departing from the Old Port at different times, and you’ll have a couple of hours to explore this 5,000 year old archaeological, and mythological, site. Believed to be the birthplace of twin gods Apollo and Artemis, it was inhabited as far back as 3000BC, and you can see the remains of amphitheatres, temples, public squares, marketplaces and several sculptures. One such sculpture is half a phallus, all that’s left of the symbol of wine god Dionysus, while a series of lions line a terrace which once led to Apollo’s shrine.
Back in Chora, grab a table at the bound-to-be-busy Niko's Taverna, a Mykonos institution known for its fresh fish (you’ll spot the fresh catch of the day, including sea urchins, on ice around the entrance).
If you’re planning a nightcap, venture to Lola, a pink and purple confection of a cocktail bar which draws a fun, mixed crowd. If you’re going all out, there can only be Jackie O’s, which turns into a, shall we say, lively, nightclub after dark...
The island’s tourist season runs from roughly the end of April to the end of October. Go either early or late in the season, when the temperatures are still into the mid to high twenties, but the vast crowds haven’t quite taken over, and hotel and apartment prices will also be cheaper. July and August are both much hotter and much, much busier. The island’s famed, seasonal Meltemi winds blow from July to September and can range from moderate to very strong. This can potentially disrupt ferry and sailing schedules and impact outdoor activities, such as dining.
Bill & Coo Suites and Lounge is the jet-setter's choice destination for absolute luxury and privacy in Mykonos. Elegant simplicity sets the mood here, where pool, lounge and restaurant spaces are centred around a splendid view of the Aegean Sea. Don't miss the hotel's restaurant, Yevo, which is considered one of the best restaurants on Mykonos – signature dishes include delicious fresh cod with Greek greens and beluga caviar.
Myconian Utopia is a charming haven tucked into the hillside above Elia Beach – the island’s longest stretch of sand. Nature-focused décor makes good use of materials such as driftwood, rattan and rope. The hotel’s laid-back feel belies the sterling, friendly and efficient service, which ensures guests never want for anything.
Pronounced like 'awesome', OSOM is in fact is an acronym for 'the other side of Mykonos'. It offers boutique amenities and a pretty sea view in a quiet corner of the island. This ultra-modern hotel incorporates various influences from Mykonian traditional architecture, with whitewashed walls and minimalist design.
More hotels
Most major airlines fly directly into Mykonos International airport, including British Airways, Jet2, Wizzair and easyjet. Uber does not operate on the island, but there are usually dozens of general cabs available at the airport. It’s a 12-minute drive to Chora, the island’s main town, reachable by taxi (around €15-20) or bus. If you’re staying in Chora or any of the main beach resorts, the public bus system is your best bet for getting around. Running from two main stations, one in the Old Port, one in Fabrika Square, they often run until at least 1am, and are clean, safe, cheap and punctual. One-way tickets start from around €1.40. You can hire mopeds, scooters, quad-bikes and cars, but be aware that the roads on the island are narrow and parking can be tricky.
I first experienced Mykonos as a student in 1994. Since then, I've come back almost every year, drawn to the island's laid-back vibe, spectacular sunsets and my constant search for the perfect Greek salad.
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