The passion play of Muharram on the streets of Hyderabad’s old city carried an extra dose of grimness on Friday afternoon. The arterial road passing between Aza Khana Zehra (built in 1930s) to Darul Shifa (hospital built in 1590s) and beyond to Daira Mir Momin (graveyard from 1600s) bore no resemblance to the earlier years as buildings have been torn down, shops moved out and building debris lay strewn through the route.

The change is evident. “We used to cook food at the Niyaaz Khana (kitchen) attached to the building. But this year we have to cook in the open,” said Rahim Khan of Act Public Welfare Foundation at the site. In earlier years, the processional elephant would enter the residence for the residents to offer their dhattis for benediction. For the first time, it was conducted in a makeshift way. Only a small portion of the Niyaz Khana, the wooden structure is still intact.

Sitting on a white plastic chair outside Ashoorkhana Zainabia, Mohammed Ali points to a spot on the road to show the earlier extent of the property. “This tin shed and covering for the ashoorkhana we installed it ten days back. We have come onto the road,” he says surrounded by building debris.

Outside the 260-year-old Ashoorkhana Shahzade Ali Asghar, food is prepared on the road and served at the same time to everyone. The building has lost a part of its rear portion that was turned into a shop. The procession remained noisy and crowded, with people jostling to touch the parade of alams being brought out from different ashoorkhanas. It remained the same albeit framed by a gutted city.

The Darul Shifa road used to be lined with elevated pavilions outside homes with people waiting to make their offerings. This year people stood on metal scaffoldings in the middle of the road to do the same. “The religious buildings that have survived will soon be reduced to islands once the metro comes. I cannot imagine how it will look with a maatam procession and elephant sharing space with metro pillars and a train chugging overhead,” says architect and historion Sibghat Khan.

Inside some homes, people peered out waiting for the procession. But instead of windows or balconies, they stood or sat on ledges of torn doorframes and windows. “We could have at least preserved the facades but that opportunity too has been lost,” says Mr. Khan.

Muharram procession

Muharram procession passing through the old city where road widening has begun for Metro Rail. | Video Credit: Serish Nanisetti

While the physical space for observing the Ashura has changed, the people wearing black, patting their chest with the right hand, reciting the elegies of the battle in Karbala remained the same. GHMC and Water Board kiosks distributed water packets to wash off the blood from self-flagellation. “We have treated about 200 persons for minor cuts. One person had a deep cut and we referred him to a hospital,” said Fatima, who set up a small medical facility to offer first aid and treatment to the wounded people.