A trip to Assam feels incomplete without catching a glimpse of the one-horned rhinoceros and soaking in the grandeur of the Brahmaputra. For a relaxed itinerary that delivers both, Rhino & River Wildlife Retreat and Spa offers a neat solution. Located at Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary in Mayong, the resort overlooks the Brahmaputra, bringing wildlife and riverine beauty together in one stay.

The name is not incidental. Step onto your balcony in the morning and the river glistens in the sun; as for the rhino, sightings are almost guaranteed, though thankfully, not at your door.

About 75 kilometres from Guwahati airport, the retreat offers a first-hand experience of Assam’s slow, rural rhythm. No matter the season, mornings begin with birdsong on the balcony. Mynahs, hornbills, pied and white-throated kingfishers, and sparrows keep the air lively, while the riverbank gradually stirs as boats ferry passengers across the water.

Designed as a boutique wilderness property, Rhino & River expresses luxury through restraint. The resort has 16 log-hut cottages, each conceived as a private sanctuary. Using natural, locally sourced materials, the architecture — developed in collaboration with Naga designer Aku Zeliang — draws from traditional Assamese monsoon houses and bamboo craftsmanship. Interiors feature bamboo and wood construction, handwoven textiles and tribal art, celebrating the craft heritage of Northeast India.

Mornings begin with a leisurely walk along the resort’s paved pathways, followed by tea at one of the gazebos. Breakfast, served as Assamese jalpaan at Ban Kahi — the poolside signature restaurant — includes pani pitha, sira-doi, and luci with alu torkari, a comforting, runny potato curry.

You could easily stay put and embrace the unhurried pace. But the quiet has a way of nudging you outdoors — into village life untouched by traffic noise or the anxieties about Wi-Fi speed.

For those keen to explore, the retreat offers curated experiences ranging from treks and river cruises to jungle safaris and visits to Mayong town.

The experiences

I chose to immerse myself in local life — a safari at Pobitora to spot the famed one-horned rhino, and a river cruise in search of dolphins. Rhino & River’s resident naturalist, Amarjyoti Boro, brings an intimate knowledge of Pobitora’s biodiversity to every experience.

Taking it slow, I began with a walk through the village to the marketplace. Thatched homes with mud-polished floors line the way; gardens grow chillies without any gardener’s order, letting seasonal flowers and vegetables co-exist freely. The only constant sound is the rhythmic khat-khat-khat of handlooms at work. Most of these looms had gamusa (traditional Assamese towel) and sadors (part of everyday traditional dress for women). Dropping into a home unannounced does not feel intrusive here. In true Assamese hospitality, I was offered a seat and refreshments without hesitation. The walk offers a lesson in how Assamese villages move to a rhythm of their own. At the bozar (market), duck eggs, fresh produce and bakery goods sit side by side.

Next came the safari into Pobitora. Accompanied by a naturalist, the jeep ride becomes as much about learning as spotting wildlife. Black-necked storks, black-winged stilts, green-winged teals, Asian open-bill storks, bank swallows and lesser whistling ducks were among the birds we identified. Soon enough, a group of one-horned rhinos appeared, grazing calmly. Watching one from about 40-feet away, hearing it crop (chomping) grass in the stillness of the sanctuary, is humbling.

After a short break and a much-needed spa session, I headed out for the river cruise. The motorboat — locally called a bhut-bhuti — cuts through the Brahmaputra as a sharp breeze sweeps across the water. We were looking for the river dolphin, or xihu in Assamese, navigating against the strong current. Local knowledge guides the search. “They’re usually spotted where the sand bed isn’t too high,” Amarjyoti explains. “The river carries silt, so shallow areas keep changing. Dolphins prefer spots with higher silt accumulation, not deep waters.”

We waited patiently before the first sighting. Spotting a river dolphin demands alertness. “They’re shy and very fast,” he adds.

If you prefer, this is also a moment to sit atop the boat with a cup of evening tea, watching the sun dip and children play along the riverbank.

Dining in

Food at Ban Kahi follows a farm-to-table approach. The table d’hôte, five-course Assamese menu is curated by Chef Kashmiri Nath, an advocate of regional cuisine, alongside Indian, Pan-Asian and western options. The resort’s culinary programme is led by Chef Ashish Rana.

Assamese flavours are central to the experience, with Kashmiri ensuring that in-house home Chef Ratna Bordoloi Das brings the warmth of traditional hospitality to the table. One pleasant revelation is the Assamese love for pickles. The spread includes not one or two, but an entire assortment — chilli, elephant apple, hog plum, Indian gooseberry, Indian olive and more.

That enthusiasm carries through to the traditional Assamese thali: pitikas (mashes), khar, fresh chutney, fish fry, vegetable fry, a vegetable curry, non-vegetarian curries, and matir mahor dal with ou tenga (black urad with elephant apple), a regional staple. The food tastes resolutely non-commercial — comforting, home-style flavours with no attempt at modern reinterpretation. Guests can also opt for à la carte dishes or Asian and North Indian fare; the menu is designed to accommodate varied preferences.

Dining here is accompanied not by recorded music, but by local artistes playing indigenous instruments such as the dhotora, taal and bamboo flute, lending the meal a distinctly local rhythm.

And just when you think it is time to turn in, the clear night sky urges you to pause — inviting you to lie back and trace constellations before the day quietly fades.

Best time to visit the resort is from October to April. Bookings for Rhino & River can be done through their website www.rhinoandriver.com