The first thing that struck me in Bhaktapur, Nepal, was the silence — not the absence of sound, but a kind of reverential hush that settled over its brick lanes and temple courtyards. It was the kind of quietness that prepared one for what lay behind unassuming wooden doors: worlds within worlds, painted with devotion, discipline and patience.

One of my most memorable experiences at this UNESCO World Heritage Site was being at the workshops of thangka artists — some barely 18, others well into their 70s and 80s — who have spent their lives practising an art form that is as much a spiritual pursuit as a visual expression. Volleying between these studios, witnessing centuries-old traditions unfold was deeply immersive.