The ranger jumped off the open Land Cruiser, took out a long canvas covered case. Out came a rifle, and the ranger fed three bullets in the chamber. Turning to our group of four, but looking at me, he said, “I have nothing for you, my friend! Can you run?”

We had signed on to walk in the South African bush, leaving the safety of the safari vehicle — for me at least the riskiest and the most exciting undertaking to date in the last half century. The ranger set the ground rules — walk single file, behind him; no talking; and, no running on seeing any animal. If you ran, you were on your own! There was some shuffling of feet, and hesitant nods. Not much of a response. Either they were all brave or, as in me, the excitement of the walk had bushwhacked the fear.

It brought back to me the signing with flourish of the indemnity form when we checked in, releasing the Lodge from any liability if we were injured, if not devoured. No doubt the Lodge takes every care to send out the best ranger and armed too. But that doesn’t take away from the fact that you are entering a nature's den of animals that are wild. And, regardless of all the ranger repeatedly saying “don’t run”, wonder how one would act if faced by a charging elephant or a miffed lion.

Slideshow: In the South African bush

The mind being what it is, in such situation is when it recalls all the incidents of attacks on those who were walking in bush, read on the Net, or, footages from National Geographic. Bringing up the rear of the column, I was constantly looking over my shoulder expecting to see a charge. And even more terrifying was the prospect of a meeting with a snake — Africa is after all the home of the deadliest of them all, the Mamba.

And, in Durban a couple of days ago, the Head Ranger of Tintsvalo lodge, who was taking up a 1,000-km walk to raise awareness on rhino poaching, had told us that in his first leg of 100 km, he had stumbled upon a mamba and a sleeping hippo! Both best left strictly alone. And the ranger himself has told us tales of the virulence of the wild dogs and hyenas that do not need any reason to kill!

So simply because you don’t know what could be round the corner, experiencing the bush on foot is exhilarating. And, from the description the ranger gives of the traffic on the baked track, it could well by a busy highway. And, not just that. There seems to have a lot of jockeying and some arguing too. We came upon a rhino loo and the ranger very encouragingly said the giant could come back.

As we walk, we become more confident, perhaps foolishly. Yet, we brave it. After an hour and half, we reach a large waterbody with 13 hippos in it. And, our friendly Land Cruiser at the edge. The hippos remain in the water, and much as the ranger might chirrup or dance, none of them reacts beyond a return call by a couple.

The group breaks into excited chatter, me included. As it happens, strangely enough, this was the one time in the bush we did not meet/see a single animal. Thankfully? Is that just happenstance or did the ranger walk around danger(s)? Let me think it is the former!

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Published on June 3, 2013