If you’re a skincare lover, wearing sunscreen every day is probably as automatic as brushing your teeth (or it should be). SPF is the best way to protect your skin against the sun’s harmful rays that could cause skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the U.S. But it’s also key for preventing fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots. But as you slather on your daily sunscreen, you might wonder what all the words on the bottle mean, like “100 percent mineral” and “physical sunscreen.” What we’re looking at here, folks, is the difference between mineral and chemical sunscreen.
It’s actually all about the composition of the formula: Does an SPF rely on mineral blockers (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) or chemical filters (usually oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, and octinoxate)? Mineral has largely earned a reputation as the better option, but is it really superior across the board? Not necessarily. Both mineral and chemical sunscreens have their own advantages and drawbacks—and choosing the right formula is nuanced.
So I think it’s time to reiterate the SPF basics we should all know and practice: mineral vs. chemical sunscreen. What are the downsides of mineral sunscreen formulas, or the pros to opting for a chemical-based SPF? Let me break it all down.
Long story short: Neither mineral nor chemical sunscreen is "better" overall, since it comes down to personal preference and what SPF you'll actually use consistently. In the end, both dermatologists Annie Chiu, MD, and Rachel Westbay, MD, agree that as long as you’re using sunscreen correctly, you’re doing it right. “The safest sunscreen is one you will use diligently and reapply without issues, no matter the formulation, and that is the end of the story,” says Dr. Westbay.
There are pros and cons to everything, and this especially rings true with mineral and chemical sunscreen. “It is normal to choose different SPF formulations to fit your activities, from daily use to water sports,” says Dr. Chiu. Here’s a breakdown, but keep reading for the full explanation.
Mineral sunscreen, also sometimes called physical sunscreen, “works similarly to a shield, sitting on the surface of your skin and deflecting the sun’s rays,” says Dr. Westbay. Mineral sunscreen contains the active ingredients zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, which are white-colored minerals that reflect light, meaning that mineral sunscreen is often the culprit of the infamous white cast on your skin.
But good news: If you want a mineral sunscreen without a white cast, you’ll be pleased to know that, unlike the sunscreens of yesteryear, “there have been huge improvements in the way mineral sunscreens have been formulated and coded,” dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD, has told Cosmo. “They don’t necessarily have the same light reflection anymore.”
These advancements are key, considering mineral sunscreen “works for all skin types and is especially great for sensitive skin,” says Dr. Chiu, since it doesn't require a chemical reaction to work. Plus, zinc oxide on its own is anti-inflammatory and can be soothing on your skin. So if you’re unsure which sunscreen is best for your sensitive skin, go with mineral. Another bonus? This baby works immediately after application. Just slather it on, and you’re good to go.
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Chemical sunscreens “work similarly to a sponge by absorbing the sun’s rays,” says Dr. Westbay. The UV rays are then transformed into heat and released from the skin, explains Dr. Chiu. “Chemical sunscreen contains one or more of the following active ingredients: oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, and octinoxate,” says Dr. Westbay.
Typically, chemical sunscreens are more water- and sweat-resistant, making them great for active lifestyles and also for most skin types, explains Dr. Chiu. “These formulations are typically more cosmetically elegant—meaning they rub nicely into the skin without a residue of chalky hue,” she adds. Because of this, chemical sunscreen can take on more of a lightweight, sheer appearance (and some can even be a totally clear SPF). But they need 15 to 30 minutes to fully absorb and take effect.
Keep in mind: There is a TON of speculation about whether chemical sunscreen is safe for use. But “we cannot definitively say that mineral sunscreens are 'safer' than chemical sunscreens,” says Dr. Westbay. And because there are no clinical studies that prove that there are any health issues with the use of chemical sunscreen, it truly comes down to personal preference.
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There’s nothing worse than applying a product and your skin either (a) breaks out or (b) becomes itchy, red, or irritated. Unfortunately, this is a common occurrence for those of us with sensitive or acne-prone skin. That’s why it’s incredibly important to find a sunscreen that works for your skin without irritating it.
“Because one of the causes of sunscreen-related acne breakouts is a sensitivity reaction to chemical UV-blocking agents, chemical sunscreens may not be the most optimal choice for those with acne-prone skin,” says Dr. Westbay. That said, sunscreen formulations are damn impressive nowadays, and there are plenty of chemical sunscreens on the market, specially formulated for acne-prone skin. It comes down to personal choice, but as always, a patch test beforehand is the safest way to go. When in doubt, look for non-comedogenic sunscreens, meaning they won't contain any of the common pore cloggers.
This may sound like a question you don’t think bears repeating (because, uh, you’ve heard it a million times), but it absolutely does. “Failing to wear sunscreen puts one at risk of photodamage,” says Dr. Westbay. Photodamage is the ~fancy~ way of saying the changes that occur to the skin resulting from UV damage. She explains that these changes happen when UV light hits skin unprotected by sunscreen, causing DNA changes at a cellular level in the dermis (aka the deepest layer of the skin).
Sooo, what does this mean? Well, it can take a long time for this damage to become visible (read: years)—but once it does, that’s when you can begin to notice common repercussions of UV damage (i.e., premature wrinkles, dark spots, uneven skin texture, and potentially even skin cancer).
Reason number 532 to wear sunscreen whenever possible: “UV exposure is not always related to how warm it is outside,” says Dr. Chiu. (Guess what?! That means you should also wear sunscreen indoors!) Dr. Chiu says that you should use a daily SPF of at least 30, no matter the weather. Basically, wear SPF daily and reapply often.
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with eight years of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories. She's an authority in all skincare categories, but is an expert when it comes to the difference between chemical and mineral sunscreens (she's been asking derms about it for nearly a decade, after all).
Siena Gagliano was the associate editor at Cosmopolitan and wrote hundreds of skincare stories.
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers skincare, makeup, hair, nails, and more across digital and print. She can generally be found in bright eyeshadow furiously typing her latest feature or hemming and hawing about a new product you "have to try." Prior to Cosmopolitan, she wrote and edited beauty content as an Editor at The Everygirl for four years. Follow her on Instagram for makeup selfies and a new hair 'do every few months.
Siena Gagliano is the associate editor at Cosmopolitan, where she primarily covers beauty, fashion, travel, and lifestyle. Wanna know how to get the best brows of your life? gotchu. What about how to find the best fashion deals of the season, the softest sheets on the market, or exactly how to use retinol without irritating your skin? Check, check, and check. Before joining Cosmopolitan, Siena was a writer at Bustle and several other media outlets. As her 2024 goal, she has vowed to find the best (extra) dirty martini NYC has to offer—and yes, that means ~attempting~ to try every cute cocktail spot in the city (hit her up with some recs, pls). Follow Siena on Instagram for a behind-the-scenes look at that magazine life.
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