Last year, a family member asked me for help with an older PC, which was trying to run Windows 10 and several programs on a cramped 110 GB SSD. At first, I figured I could clone the boot drive onto a more spacious drive so the OS and programs had more space to stretch out.

But the thought of using multiple USB enclosures or shuffling drives in and out of my desktop filled me with dread as I pictured being there for hours getting everything done and the system back up and running. So I looked into getting an M.2 SSD cloner, and was surprised to see they can be found for less than $50.

While I don't love the glossy plastic shell of Rosewill's model, it's one of the more affordable options. And it supports both NVMe M.2 drives and older AHCI models (Sorry, SATA). Using the cloner is pretty straightforward. You plug in the included USB-C power adapter, put your source drive in the left slot, the destination drive in the right slot, press the power button on the back, and a few logos light up, letting you know you're ready to go. Press the clone button on the top, and drive cloning will commence (provided your destination is the same size or larger than your source).

That's assuming you want to do an offline clone. But because I wanted to also resize the partition between the old 110 GB and the newer Team Group 512 GB SSD, I used the second included USB-C cable to connect the Rosewill cloner to my laptop and powered up the device. Within seconds, both drives were recognized in Windows, so I fired up the excellent free

, cloned the old partition to a new Team Group drive with a few clicks, and then used the software to drag the boot partition to the full size of the new drive. The whole process took just a few minutes, since the Rosewill cloner supports 20 Gbps USB, and I wasn't exactly copying a huge partition.

When the cloning process was finished and the partition inflated, it was hard to believe it was all that easy. I had expected to be at the task for hours, but I was done in less than 30 minutes. Sure, unless you're in IT, a drive cloner might not be something you use regularly, but it's sure handy to have around. You could also use it to save some money by buying a laptop with a cramped SSD and swapping in something much roomier – provided, of course, the laptop's storage isn't soldered to the motherboard.

The Rosewill cloner is also handy for just checking the contents of old M.2 drives you may have lying around. But if that's all you need, you can buy an NVMe enclosure or a single-drive dock. I also own a version of

.

I build a lot of PCs, though not as many lately thanks to the RAMpocalypse, and I also do a fair bit of home improvement work around my apartment. So a cordless screwdriver is a nice thing to have. I also own a much slimmer Wowstick, but have found HOTO's NEX O1 Pro to be more useful thanks to its extra (and variable) torque. It's great for loosening those factory-installed screws on PC cases that just don't want to let go, and also good for assembling furniture.

The HOTO won't replace my DeWalt impact driver or drill for bigger, tougher jobs. But for everyday tasks, it's powerful enough, easy to charge over USB-C, and even looks good on my workbench.

What's not to love about a

that's compatible with Windows, Mac, Android and the Nintendo Switch? Not much, but I own the original Pro model and not one of these newer models with translucent plastic shells. That's peak late-90s nostalgia and I really don't want to love it as much as I do.

As you might expect given this controller's small size and many more buttons than the SNES controller it was based on, its Rumble motors aren't the strongest, and the layout can feel kind of cramped for some modern games. But for any kind of retro game and especially platformers (I'm looking at you, Super Mario Bros. Wonder), this is my go-to controller. At this price, maybe I should pick up another one.

Under the hood, you get a decent 26,000 DPI sensor and 4K polling (plenty for us older, non-esports gamers), and an ambidextrous design with two side buttons on either side, and a clicky, rubberized scroll wheel. The side buttons, which are concave, took a little getting used to for me. But they are also so distinctive that now I miss them while using other mice.

If the NES theme isn't your thing, the company also sells a translucent-green XBox version, as well as a champagne-hued C64 Edition.

If you're like me, you never have access to enough USB ports. I solved this problem by picking up this Ikai hub, with 60W of power for your drives and peripherals and a premium metal shell. It sports three speedy 10 Gbps ports (two USB-C), along with seven 5 GBps USB-A ports. The final USB-C on the end of the hub is for charging your phone or other devices, and delivers 20W.

The other nice feature, is that all the data ports have a button on the side so you can toggle them on and off. Aside from saving a bit of power, I also find this handy for swapping between wireless mice and keyboards, while keeping the tiny dongles plugged in so I don't lose them.

OK, this one's only for the DIY-inclined, because it involves cutting a hole in your desk (or anywhere else you might want some flush-mount power ports, like a nightstand). Jgstkcity's recessed power strip lets you drop a couple of AC outlets and two USB charging ports (one 30W USB-C) anywhere you need them – again, once you've cut a hole for it.

While it's always smart to be wary of no-name power strips, I've owned the older non-PD version of this strip for over two years and it's been functioning just fine. I have it installed in the narrow stand I built right behind my couch. It's a super-convenient place for power outlets, especially when friends or family stop by. I just warn people not to put drinks there. Thankfully, the coffee table is even more convenient for that and it's right in front of the couch.

When you're traveling to another country for more than a few days, every small bit of space you can save helps. But you also usually need a travel adapter to plug your devices into the outlets of other countries. Anker's Nano Travel adapter serves both needs well, as it's roughly half the thickness of other adapters and is designed to work in over 200 countries.

The Nano Travel Adapter also has four USB ports for charging, which I've found super convenient for keeping my phone, ereader, and earbuds juiced up without needing a separate charger. There are two USB-A ports on the bottom and two USB-C on the side, with the latter delivering up to 20W. It also comes in black or white/silver. I opted for the white one, which makes it easier to find after months in a drawer when I'm not traveling.

If there's one thing everyone with modern tech could probably use at this point, it's an extra high-speed and compact charger. The Baseus 65W Flat Wall Charger is my favorite. It's especially great for travel, because it outputs 45W over USB-C for my laptop and up to 20W over USB-A for my phone or other devices, all while folding to a slim 0.66 inches thick. It's smaller than a deck of cards and easily fits in pretty much any bag pocket.

Its slim shape should also help keep the device fully inserted in loose hotel room power sockets, and while the outer shell is plastic, the build quality feels solid, and it includes a 3.3-foot USB-C charging cable for those of us who aren't already drowning in cables from other devices. You'll have to provide your own USB-A cable to charge a second device, but at its current sale price, there's hardly a reason to complain about that. And who doesn't have an extra USB-A charging cable at this point?

If you to get a handle on the PC cables in your home or office, some cheap cable management trays will do the job. This two-pack comes with tape, though heavier loads will ultimately require some screws.

Besides the trays, this kit also comes with cable ties and a few cable clips you can place along the bottom or sides of your desk. One of these has been holding up the PC cable clutter in my living room for the past year. But I had to screw it into my desk because it's holding one of the above Anker power strips, plus the large external power brick from my LG OLED TV/Monitor.