I used to get through about 300kg of halloumi each summer at my festival cafe. Our halloumi wrap was a bestseller, filled with superslaw (sprouts, cabbage, raisins, parsley and seeds), tahini sauce and broad bean falafel.

Halloumi is a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) product that has to be produced and packaged in Cyprus, and be at least 51% sheep and goat’s milk (cow’s milk can make up the rest). The curd has to be cooked and folded, which gives halloumi its characteristic shape and texture. This is why the block sometimes splits during cooking, a sign of authenticity that’s often mistaken for lack of quality. No preservatives, colourings or milk powder are allowed, either.

I fried each halloumi in olive oil, and noted the amount of liquid released, the caramelisation, the aroma, the texture and, very importantly, the squeak. The more economical cheeses are really very good, while the mid-range ones are pretty indistinguishable from their cheaper counterparts. The most expensive ones, meanwhile, are made with only sheep and goat’s milk, which gives them a noticeably more complex flavour.

My main takeaway: unless you actively want the complex, wonderful flavour of sheep and goat’s milk, stick to the milder, most economical options.

The best supermarket halloumi

Best overall:
Waitrose No 1 halloumi with mint

Best bargain:
Milbona Cypriot halloumi

★★★☆☆

A perfect cow, sheep and goat’s milk block that releases little water and caramelises well, producing a smooth, firm, silky and squeaky grilled cheese with a satisfying mild yet still complex flavour.

And the rest …

Odysea sheep & goat’s milk halloumi

★★★★☆

Handmade with sheep’s and goat’s milk. Fries beautifully without leaking, and caramelises quickly. Firmer than most, and with a wonderfully silky texture. Very squeaky, with a mild, sweet flavour and a clean, lactic tang.

Dodoni authentic halloumi

★★★☆☆

A large, firm block made with cow, sheep and goat’s milk. No leaching, quick caramelisation and a slightly lower salt content (2.5g/100g) than many, which gives it a more subtle, sweet flavour. Quite firm and very squeaky. Great Taste one-star award.

Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Cypriot halloumi

★★★☆☆

A large, irregular, hand-folded block made from sheep and goat’s milk and topped with dried mint. Caramelises beautifully with a firm, squeaky texture and a deep, savoury flavour.

M&S traditional Cypriot halloumi

★★★☆☆

A firm, hand-folded block made with sheep and goat’s milk. Some leaching, though holds together and caramelises well. Full of flavour with a fluffy texture and a good, strong squeak.

Sainsbury’s Cypriot halloumi

★★☆☆☆

A knobbly block of cow, sheep and goat’s milk halloumi. It releases a lot of water, but eventually caramelises well. One of the saltier cheeses in the test, with a sweet, complex flavour and fluffy texture. Great value.

Ocado Cypriot halloumi

★★☆☆☆

A classic, round-edged block made from cow, sheep and goat’s milk. No water leached out, leading to a quick caramelisation. At 2.6%, it’s quite salty, but a rounded, funky flavour and a delicious firm bite.

Cypressa Cypriot halloumi cheese

★★☆☆☆

A classic cow, sheep and goat’s milk halloumi with a minty flavour that carries through more than most. Very little leaching and strong caramelisation. One of the saltiest in the test (2.7%), with a firm, squeaky texture that lacked a little of the silkiness of better products.

Co-op Cypriot halloumi

★★☆☆☆

A uniform block lightly seasoned with dried mint, and made with the standard three-milk blend. Produced a lot of water, but took on a lovely, golden-brown hue once that evaporated. A very soft, fluffy texture with a nice squeak and a tangy, full-but-mild goat flavour.

For more, read the best supermarket feta and the best supermarket natural yoghurts