As I cycle in golden light through the Loire’s vineyards, I have the sudden wish to wear a flowing floral dress, tuck a sunflower behind my ear and answer only to the name Delphine. Opulent chateaux, honeyed stone villages, blazing fields of sunflowers … the Loire is so ridiculously and relentlessly beautiful it’s no wonder artists such as Leonardo da Vinci and Émile Vernon made it their home.
A short zip across to Paris on the Eurostar and then an hour south on the TGV to Saint-Pierre-des-Corps and it feels as if we’ve stepped into a live JMW Turner landscape (he toured the region in 1826).
As a fair-weather cyclist – no hills and only in sunshine – I’ve never fancied a proper cycling holiday. However, my partner, Toby, is a keen mountain biker. Our compromise? A self-guided ebike tour through the Loire valley with Cycling for Softies (the clue’s in the name).
A short taxi ride takes us to our starting point, Château du Rivau, a Renaissance beauty in Lémeré, where Joan of Arc is said to have collected her horses before the siege of Orléans in 1429. After we enjoy a glass of chilled local rosé and a potter around the gardens, Quintin from Cycling for Softies arrives with our ebikes (offered as an upgrade on normal touring bikes for a few euros a day) and talks us through the itinerary. We’ll cover about 100 miles (160km) over the next three days, cycling along the river, through vineyards and to towns such as Langeais and Azay-le-Rideau, with plenty of time to stop along the way.
The chateau, which has been lovingly restored by Patricia and Éric Laigneau since 1992, hosts a contemporary art gallery in its ancient turrets. Here, classics are reimagined by modern artists – Pierre Ardouvin’s playful Ile Mona, Jeff Koons’s inspired hunting trophies and Sabine Pigalle’s Dutch Last Supper. There’s also a room devoted to Joan of Arc.
Tonight’s dinner is in the Jardin Secret, the chateau’s gourmet restaurant led by Andrea Modesto, once second-in-command to globally revered chef and restaurateur Joël Robuchon. In a candlelit gazebo, we feast like royalty on stuffed courgette flowers, roast duck with cherries, and a platter of local cheeses, all washed down with an excellent bottle of chinon.
After breakfast the next morning, we wave goodbye to Château du Rivau and our luggage, as Quintin takes care of that. We’re eased in gently – today is just 27 miles – and Toby takes the lead with the help of the on-bike GPS. The route couldn’t be simpler, and within minutes we’re following the cycle path and wheeling through heavenly vineyards and past honeysuckle-draped farmhouses. We soon join La Loire à Vélo, the 560-mile cycling route tracing the river from Nevers to the Atlantic, the first section of which was opened in 2005.
After an hour or so, we arrive at the confluence of the Loire and Vienne rivers in Candes-Saint-Martin, one of the Loire’s ancient river port towns, and stop for a beer at La P’tite Vienne. Basking in the sun on the banks of the river, it’s so nice that we stay for another. And then order lunch. With wine. Before the pastis menu distracts me further, we grab our bikes and potter around the town with its dusty brocantes, fromageries and wine caves.
We tear ourselves away to cycle on through more vineyards and fields of spent sunflowers, heads bowed. It’s late afternoon when we roll into Fontevraud-l’Abbaye, one of France’s Plus Beaux Villages and Petites Cités de Caractère, and L’Hôtel de Fontevraud L’Ermitage, our resting place for the night.
Founded in the 12th century, and now a Unesco world heritage site, Fontevraud Abbey is the final resting place of Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine and Richard the Lionheart. Set in the grounds of the great abbey, the four-star hotel is light, contemporary and has an almost monastic vibe. The Michelin-starred restaurant is closed on a Monday, but we enjoy a gorgeous picnic prepared by the chefs in the candlelit gardens. Guests of L’Ermitage are also allowed to wander around the hauntingly beautiful abbey after dark.
Day two, and we’re getting the hang of this cycling lark. After breakfast, we leave our cases to be picked up and taken to our next hotel, and set out on today’s 34-mile route. We cross back over the Loire and pick up the riverside cycle path towards Château d’Ussé, a huge and heavily turreted castle said to have inspired Charles Perrault’s fairytale Sleeping Beauty.
I love how easy it is to just ebb and flow with the day. Our route is mostly traffic-free as we drift past copses of poplar trees and weeping willows whose boughs touch the flowing river below, the air scented with cut hay and apples. We fall into an easy routine of cycling for an hour before stopping for a beer. Another burst of energy and a dozen or more kilometres before lunch, which is often long and leisurely.
From Ussé, we cruise on quiet country lanes banked by cliffs dotted with ancient and often forgotten wine cellars to Château de Rochecotte, near Langeais, our home for the next two nights. Elegant, regal almost, with ethereal views across the valley, it feels utterly indulgent. Dinner is a lavish affair: fresh langoustine, locally bred roi rose pork and crème brûlée.
On our last day, we clock up 37 miles, largely without breaking a sweat thanks to the ebikes. We wind our way through medieval river towns such as Azay-le-Rideau, past apple and cherry orchards to Château de Villandry. Built in the 16th century by Jean Le Breton, this glorious Renaissance pile was the last of the grand chateaux to be built along the Loire. One of the highlights is its tiered, geometric gardens, which were restored in the early 20th century by Joachim Carvallo. Wandering around the harp-shaped box bushes in the ornamental garden, the maze and the water garden shaped like a Louis XV-style mirror, I think Delphine would be happy here, especially if she could keep her ebike.
The trip was provided by Cycling for Softies; its four-night Loire in Luxury trip costs from £1,510 per person, including half-board accommodation, bike rental with ebike upgrades available (£20 a day), luggage transfers and route information