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The Guardian

Rory McIlroy surges into six-shot Masters lead with stunning second-round flourish ‘That’ll be the end’: actor Sam Neill joins fight to stop controversial goldmine near his New Zealand vineyard Roberto De Zerbi targets ‘Ange-ball’ revival to save Spurs from relegation Bath hit back to reach semi-final after stunning Northampton in 11-try epic Secret Garden to Outcome: the week in rave reviews Zebras, wealth and power: Hungary’s election tests Orbán’s grip on power ‘TikTok effect’ brings sellout crowds and younger fans to Grand National meeting The war over Omagh’s gold: the £21bn mine plan tearing a community apart Britain’s shadow workforce is paid as little as 65p an hour. Who cares for the carers? From You, Me & Tuscany to Euphoria: your complete entertainment guide to the week ahead Six great reads: the man who let snakes bite him, masked heavy metal and the brutal reality for foreign students in the UK American Classic review – I defy you not to fall in love with Kevin Kline and Laura Linney’s tender comedy Cuba’s doctors were a lifeline for the world. Now the Caribbean is shamefully complicit in the US drive to expel them An environmental disaster in Moldova has Russia’s fingerprints all over it RMIT drops misconduct case against student who accused university of being ‘complicit in Gaza genocide’ Ichiro Suzuki statue unveiling goes awry as bronze bat snaps during ceremony Survivors of Epstein’s abuse accuse Melania Trump of ‘shifting burden’ on to victims European football: Real Madrid held at home by Girona to extend winless run Arne Slot insists he is ‘aligned’ with Liverpool board and fans as squad is rebuilt Kamala Harris ‘thinking about’ running for president again in 2028 JD Vance warns Iran against trying to ‘play’ the US in peace talks West Ham double up twice to thrash Wolves and put Spurs in relegation zone Trump administration releases new renderings of so-called ‘Arc de Trump’ Crispin Odey drops £79m libel claim against FT over sexual misconduct allegations Bafta apologises for events surrounding John Davidson’s Tourette’s outburst Cocktail of the week: Bar Shrimp’s la rosita – recipe New drug may extend survival in aggressive ovarian cancer, trial shows One dead and 27 injured after bus with British passengers crashes in Canary Islands Pope adds to Smith’s mass of Surrey runs with England woes a world away OpenAI CEO Sam Altman’s home targeted with molotov cocktail Reform UK local election candidate was twice disciplined by Tories over ‘racist comments’ Remaining in Nato is in best interests of US, says Keir Starmer Prince Harry sued for defamation by charity he co-founded Anthropic’s new AI tool has implications for us all – whether we can use it or not Concerns raised about motorbike tourist trail after death of British teenager in Vietnam The Guardian view on Trump’s civilisational threats: the words that fuel war must be condemned The Guardian view on dystopias for our times: the American nightmare Doctors’ leader claims new reduced pay offer killed chances of ending strikes in England Netanyahu-ism has achieved nothing for Israelis – and come at a monstrously high price Deborah Levy: ‘CS Lewis’s White Witch terrified me – but I wanted to meet her’ How I Shop with Michelle Ogundehin: ‘We grownups have enough stuff already’ Trump’s war and Melania’s Epstein statement, with US editor Betsy Reed – The Latest We have to stop killer motorists on Britain’s roads UK starts crackdown on EU citizens’ post-Brexit rights Londoners aren’t unfriendly – but don’t compare us to New Yorkers The religious right and the perversion of faith Artemis II images reignite moon mission memories Orbán and Magyar trade accusations in last days of Hungary election campaign Reckonwrong: How Long Has It Been? review | Safi Bugel's experimental album of the month Martin Rowson on Middle East peace talks – cartoon Masters magic, the Grand National and Premier League drama – follow with us Fears of UK and EU flight cancellations as airports warn of jet fuel shortages Reform’s petulance over slavery reparations shows it just doesn’t grasp Britain’s place in the modern world Peers vote to ban pornography depicting sex acts between stepfamily members Starbucks’s retail arm gets £13.7m tax credit even as sales increase Flyby review – interstellar musical is a voyage of epic strangeness Grand National preview: Jagwar can deny Irish cohort in Aintree classic Week in wildlife: an ostrich on the lam, a tortoise crossing a road and surfing seals Anger as swifts’ nesting holes in Derbyshire rail viaduct ‘blocked up’ Peter Mandelson faces fixed-penalty notice for urinating in public ‘There’s no shortage of terrifying technology’: how AI became TV drama’s new go-to villain ‘Fresher than anything in a shop’: the best recipe boxes and meal kits for time-poor foodies, tested Who was Hilma? 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An irresistible adventure activity for New Zealand visitors? Delivering the mail by boat
Jonathan Freedland · 2026-04-08 · via The Guardian

For a travel destination famous for offering the adrenaline rush of extreme sports, from bungee jumping to the parachute drop, it’s an unlikely tourist activity – but an irresistible one. If you’re travelling in New Zealand, don’t miss out on the chance to deliver the mail. By boat.

It happens in the Queen Charlotte Sound, part of the Marlborough Sounds in the stretch of water that separates New Zealand’s North and South Islands. For over 160 years, New Zealand Post has ensured the handful of families who live on the bays and inlets of the sound receive the same mail service as every other resident of the country, no matter that they live in isolated homes accessible only by boat. Six days a week, the mailboat leaves from Picton, the skipper doubling as postman for the three- or four-hour voyage – and these days passengers can come along for the ride.

The truth is, it’s the passengers who make it possible. If it weren’t for them, the mailboat run would have been abandoned decades ago, deemed hopelessly uneconomic. Now the boat company, Beachcomber Cruises, effectively subsidises the service and keeps it afloat. They’re glad you’re there, so you’re invited to come up front, stand next to the skipper, ask anything you want – and help out.

Even on a drizzly day, the landscape is spectacular, the tree-covered hillsides sloping down to the water’s edge as the boat weaves its way to destinations with names that evoke smugglers’ tales of a bygone age: Curious Cove, Lazy Fish and Maraetai Bay. From a distance, you can see the specific house, perched above the shoreline, that the captain is aiming for as he approaches to make a delivery. Each one has a jetty with its own number, the Queen Charlotte equivalent of a postcode.

A jetty from the air
A jetty from the air. Photograph: Sam McDonald
A crewman hands a woman her mailbag
A resident collects her mail. Photograph: Matt Croad

As the boat gets nearer, someone emerges to greet it. I ask the skipper, Iain– a British-born firefighter in Wellington who saves up his entire annual holiday allocation so he can head southwards and work the Picton mailboat in summer – if there’s a timetable, so that residents know exactly when to come out to pick up their post. No, he says. They have a mechanism that’s far more reliable.

On delivery days, the families’ dogs wait expectantly, heading to the jetty when they get so much as a sniff of the approaching vessel. It’s not only the approach of a visitor to these isolated households that gets the animals excited. The dogs know that Iain and his fellow skippers come bearing gifts.

At our first stop, I watch as the boat pulls alongside the jetty, Iain opens a side window and asks after the health of the woman who’s standing ready. She hands him a mailbag with her outgoing post as he hands her an identical bag with her incoming mail. The swap complete, he then transacts the main business of the day – handing her pet a chunky, triangular dog biscuit. It’s clearly a highlight of the animal’s week.

A dog carries an empty mailbag
A dog carries an empty mailbag. Photograph: Matt Croad

And on it goes, jetty by jetty, the swapping of the mailbags, sometimes accompanied by a few parcels, including Amazon deliveries. When we get to the house on Arapaoa Island, Iain lets me hand over several boxes through the boat’s open side door, including one bulk order of toilet paper. If it wasn’t for Iain and the mailboat, the family on Arapaoa would have been caught short.

The houses are so dispersed that only a third of the registered addresses get a delivery on any given day, so each gets two deliveries a week. It takes that long to reach them. And whatever course the skipper plots, it’s the scenic route. We pass a series of floating ropes on the surface of the water – a mussel farm – a derelict whaling station and an island that’s home to fur seals, several of whom are in residence as we pass. Dolphins and orcas have been known to swim alongside the mailboat, coming along for the ride.

For the return to Picton, the boat turns into a bus, picking up hikers who have been walking the stunning Queen Charlotte Track, giving them a lift after they’ve had a drink at Furneaux Lodge or a swim at Punga Cove. Take the mailboat and you won’t need your heart rate checked, as you might after undertaking the daredevil activities that draw so many to New Zealand – but you will be charmed.

  • Tickets to the Mail Boat Cruise by Beachcomber Cruises start from NZ$132. The cruise departs from Picton in New Zealand’s South Island at 1.30pm, and operates Monday to Saturday during the summer season; and Monday, Wednesday and Friday during the winter season