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The Guardian

Rory McIlroy surges into six-shot Masters lead with stunning second-round flourish ‘That’ll be the end’: actor Sam Neill joins fight to stop controversial goldmine near his New Zealand vineyard Roberto De Zerbi targets ‘Ange-ball’ revival to save Spurs from relegation Bath hit back to reach semi-final after stunning Northampton in 11-try epic Secret Garden to Outcome: the week in rave reviews Zebras, wealth and power: Hungary’s election tests Orbán’s grip on power ‘TikTok effect’ brings sellout crowds and younger fans to Grand National meeting The war over Omagh’s gold: the £21bn mine plan tearing a community apart Britain’s shadow workforce is paid as little as 65p an hour. Who cares for the carers? From You, Me & Tuscany to Euphoria: your complete entertainment guide to the week ahead Six great reads: the man who let snakes bite him, masked heavy metal and the brutal reality for foreign students in the UK American Classic review – I defy you not to fall in love with Kevin Kline and Laura Linney’s tender comedy Cuba’s doctors were a lifeline for the world. Now the Caribbean is shamefully complicit in the US drive to expel them An environmental disaster in Moldova has Russia’s fingerprints all over it RMIT drops misconduct case against student who accused university of being ‘complicit in Gaza genocide’ Ichiro Suzuki statue unveiling goes awry as bronze bat snaps during ceremony Survivors of Epstein’s abuse accuse Melania Trump of ‘shifting burden’ on to victims European football: Real Madrid held at home by Girona to extend winless run Arne Slot insists he is ‘aligned’ with Liverpool board and fans as squad is rebuilt Kamala Harris ‘thinking about’ running for president again in 2028 JD Vance warns Iran against trying to ‘play’ the US in peace talks West Ham double up twice to thrash Wolves and put Spurs in relegation zone Trump administration releases new renderings of so-called ‘Arc de Trump’ Crispin Odey drops £79m libel claim against FT over sexual misconduct allegations Bafta apologises for events surrounding John Davidson’s Tourette’s outburst Cocktail of the week: Bar Shrimp’s la rosita – recipe New drug may extend survival in aggressive ovarian cancer, trial shows One dead and 27 injured after bus with British passengers crashes in Canary Islands Pope adds to Smith’s mass of Surrey runs with England woes a world away OpenAI CEO Sam Altman’s home targeted with molotov cocktail
Six of the best natural and free beaches in Italy
Katie McKnou · 2026-04-27 · via The Guardian

As an Australian living in Italy, I grew up within an hour of some of the most pristine coastline in the world, so the Italian penchant for private beach clubs is something I’ll never quite grow accustomed to.

Along some of Italy’s most naturally beautiful stretches of beach, from the Amalfi Coast to the Cinque Terre, private, exclusive beach clubs and five-star hotels occupy the best patches of shoreline. The natural beauty that made these places famous can feel increasingly roped off.

In Australia, beaches are natural places to be shared. There’s a more relaxed approach to bathing along open stretches of sand framed by nothing but trees, rocks and dunes. For those seeking a back-to-nature holiday, here are six of Italy’s most beautiful free beaches where the coastline remains untouched and open to all.

Riviera del Conero, Marche

The Riviera del Conero is the Marche’s most precious jewel, in a region still largely unchanged by mass tourism. You’ll rarely hear any language other than Italian as it’s all locals and other Italians on their summer holidays.

Set against a stunning backdrop of limestone cliffs covered in pine trees, a series of protected bays with clear green-blue water and white pebbles make up this stretch of coastline within the Conero regional park.

Sirolo is a long, natural beach at the end of a meandering downhill walk through the trees. There’s plenty of space to lay down your towel on the smooth rocks, with the option of paid chairs and umbrellas, too.

Portonovo Bay offers low-key retro 60s beach clubs and long stretches of free beach. Ristorante Emilia has been the standout lunch spot here since 1950, serving up their signature spaghetti with mussels prised by hand every morning from the nearby rocks.
In Sirolo, San Michele Relais & Spa has doubles from €108, and Camping Village Internazionale has cabins from about €100

Gargano, Puglia

People in the water off a beach with steep cliffs in the background
A cove on the Gargano peninsula. Photograph: Katie McKnoulty

While southern Puglia’s beaches are at the top of many travellers’ bucket lists, the rugged Gargano peninsula, which juts out from northern Puglia into the Adriatic, is far less known. Part of Gargano national park, it’s full of rocky coves, quiet bays and long pebbled beaches framed by olive groves.

Portogreco, a tiny cove and popular free beach, is framed by sea caves and rocks perfect for high diving, and offers fantastic snorkelling in the clear waters.

Vignanotica is a long, skinny pebble beach, backed by a sheer limestone cliff that mercifully shades the shoreline by late afternoon in summer.

Make the scenic trip an hour north along the coast for lunch at Al Trabucco da Mimì in Peschici for fresh seafood caught and served on a traditional wooden fishing platform. Order the mixed seafood grill to sample it all.
HMO Glamping in Vignanotica has tents from about €110, or Baia delle Zagare resort in Mattinata has doubles from 150

Ponza, Lazio

Several boats anchored off rocky cliffs
Some of Ponza’s best swimming spots are only accessible by boat. Photograph: Katie McKnoulty

A favourite summer escape for Romans, the island of Ponza sits a short ferry ride from mainland Lazio. Pastel houses cluster around a port town unchanged by time. The island opens up into wild coves and quiet swimming spots, the best ones accessible only by boat.

Frontone, the island’s longest beach, is reached by water taxi from Ponza. While some of the shoreline is occupied by beach clubs, there’s still plenty of free beach, and savvy locals know to perch on the rocks at the southern end.

Some of Ponza’s most spectacular swimming spots, such as Chiaia di Luna – a crescent-shaped cove surrounded by soaring orange cliffs – are accessible only from the water, so hiring a dinghy or a captained boat is part of the experience.

Take lunch at Ristoro da Gerardo, which has the best views over Frontone from its rustic raffia-shaded terrace. The homestyle menu offers aubergine parmigiana alongside Ponzese octopus stew, and dessert is figs picked onsite. Guests are invited to stay for a post-lunch nap on loungers shaded by trees.
Hotel Chiaia di Luna has doubles from €115

Pantelleria, Sicily

A pool surrounded by volcanic rocks on the shoreline
There are no sandy beaches on the volcanic island of Pantelleria. Photograph: Katie McKnoulty

Closer to Tunisia than Sicily, this slow-paced island feels completely removed from mainland Italy and offers full immersion in the elements. Without a single sandy beach, visitors and locals lay down their towels on the flat volcanic rocks and dive into the clear blue water, amid arid, wind-battered landscapes.

Balata dei Turchi is a secluded bay of volcanic rock at the wilder southern end of the island that is ideal for snorkelling, with clean waters and submerged rocks teeming with bright coral and fish. Nearby at Nikà, underwater thermal springs bubble up out of the sea while you swim.

Laghetto delle Ondine lies at the end of a short hike across otherworldly volcanic terrain, where waves crash against the walls of calm rock pools the size of swimming pools.

At sunset, snag an outdoor table at Dispensa Pantesca in Scauri for an antipasto plate of local specialities, including Pantelleria’s aromatic capers. Or book a more formal dinner in the courtyard next door at sister restaurant La Nicchia.
Stay in traditional dammusi (houses made from volcanic stone) at Pantelleria Dream Resort near Kamma from €170, or at Dammuso Biancolilla near Scauri from €140

Elba, Tuscany

A long, flat beach with shrub-covered hills behind
The island of Elba has 90 miles of coastline. Photograph: Katie McKnoulty

Part of the Tuscan Archipelago, Elba lies 35 miles (55km) east of Corsica, with similarly clear waters and mountainous terrain. Still relatively under the radar outside Italy, the island has 90 miles of coastline, scattered with wild bays and tiny beaches. It’s larger than many visitors expect, so where you base yourself makes all the difference.

Nisporto is a quiet, unspoilt bay enclosed by pine-covered hills at the end of a winding road, giving it a secluded feel, even in summer. The flat sand-and-pebble beach and the gentle waves make it perfect for families with kids. The transparent waters and seabeds rich in marine life are great for snorkelling, or rent a pedalo or canoe to explore the coastline beyond.

In Portoferraio, book dinner at Teatro Bistro for the spectacular views from the terrace, and order the spaghetti with cured mullet bottarga, a Tuscan coastal delicacy.
In Nisporto, Residence La Cota Quinta has apartments from about €80 a night (three-night minimum stay) or Sole e Mare camping village has bungalows from €400 a week for two

Maremma, Tuscany

A beach with driftwood and a woman sitting on a log, with an island on the horizon
An untouched beach near Grosseto. Photograph: Katie McKnoulty

Just outside the walled city of Grosseto, the regional park of Maremma stretches from the Uccellina mountains to the Tyrrhenian Sea, protecting one of Italy’s most untouched coastlines.

The park’s wild sandy beaches are completely devoid of umbrellas, bars and beach clubs, the only structures being improvised driftwood forts providing refuge from the sun.

Marina di Alberese is the most accessible beach inside the park, the shoreline stretching for miles. Traipse along the coast to quieter Collelungo, or reach it on foot or bike via trails within the lush park.

Easy cycle paths, with bikes and e-bikes readily available to rent, lead through the park from Grosseto to the beaches, passing herds of horned Maremma cows and wild horses.

Stop for a tasting plate of cheeses made at dairy La Maremmana. Their speciality is the buffalo mozzarella, and they’ll pack up extras to take away for a picnic at the beach.
Agriturismo il Melograno di Banditella in Alberese has doubles from120 B&B