This year, I’m an ambassador for Cole & Mason, a British brand that makes some of the best pepper mills I know and for whom I’ve come up with The Art of Seasoning, a recipe series about my approach to seasoning food. It covers both the basics, including the impact of different salts and peppers, as well as innovative ways to use seasoning, such as in Eton mess and today’s posset. Strawberries have a pretty short shelf life, but even when they’re a bit squishy, they can still be turned into something delicious, be that a topping for your morning porridge or this simple, rich and seasonal dessert.

Strawberry, basil and black pepper posset

This recipe takes advantage of one of my favourite unexpected flavour combinations: strawberries, basil and black pepper, and transforms past-their-best strawberries into a decadent dessert. The base is made by turning squishy strawberries into a simple compote to preserve them. I like to use honey here, not least because it feels healthier than white sugar, but also because it helps the compote keeps the fruit’s brilliant red colour. Excess strawberry tops, meanwhile, can be washed and steeped with an optional basil sprig to make tea: simply infuse for five minutes, then strain.

Serves 4

200g strawberries
4 tbsp honey
300ml double cream
4 peppercorns
45ml fresh lemon juice, plus some finely grated zest if the fruit’s unwaxed, to taste

To serve (all optional and to taste)
Shortbread
Basil leaves
Fresh strawberries
Freshly cracked black pepper

Cut any green tops off the strawberries, then cut each fruit in half. Put the strawberries in a small saucepan with a tablespoon of the honey, bring slowly to a boil, then turn off the heat and mash the fruit with a fork.

Pour the cream into another small saucepan, add the peppercorns, the stem of a sprig of basil, half the mashed strawberries and two tablespoons of honey, then bring up to a simmer on a low heat. Cook for five minutes, stirring all the while, then take off the heat and leave to cool for five minutes. Stir in the lemon juice (if the lemon’s unwaxed, add some finely grated zest,too, to taste), then keep stirring until the cream begins to thicken. Pour into a sieve set over a bowl, and push through the fruit mash with the back of a spoon. Remove and discard the peppercorns, then scrape any remaining strawberry mash in the sieve into the cream bowl, so you don’t waste any.

Pour the posset mix into four small glasses and chill for at least four hours. Decorate with any remaining strawberry compote, an optional fresh strawberry or two and/or basil leaf and a crack of black pepper.