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The Guardian

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Now the Caribbean is shamefully complicit in the US drive to expel them An environmental disaster in Moldova has Russia’s fingerprints all over it RMIT drops misconduct case against student who accused university of being ‘complicit in Gaza genocide’ Ichiro Suzuki statue unveiling goes awry as bronze bat snaps during ceremony Survivors of Epstein’s abuse accuse Melania Trump of ‘shifting burden’ on to victims European football: Real Madrid held at home by Girona to extend winless run Arne Slot insists he is ‘aligned’ with Liverpool board and fans as squad is rebuilt Kamala Harris ‘thinking about’ running for president again in 2028 JD Vance warns Iran against trying to ‘play’ the US in peace talks West Ham double up twice to thrash Wolves and put Spurs in relegation zone Trump administration releases new renderings of so-called ‘Arc de Trump’ Crispin Odey drops £79m libel claim against FT over sexual misconduct allegations Bafta apologises for events surrounding John Davidson’s Tourette’s outburst Cocktail of the week: Bar Shrimp’s la rosita – recipe New drug may extend survival in aggressive ovarian cancer, trial shows One dead and 27 injured after bus with British passengers crashes in Canary Islands Pope adds to Smith’s mass of Surrey runs with England woes a world away OpenAI CEO Sam Altman’s home targeted with molotov cocktail Reform UK local election candidate was twice disciplined by Tories over ‘racist comments’ Remaining in Nato is in best interests of US, says Keir Starmer Prince Harry sued for defamation by charity he co-founded Anthropic’s new AI tool has implications for us all – whether we can use it or not Concerns raised about motorbike tourist trail after death of British teenager in Vietnam The Guardian view on Trump’s civilisational threats: the words that fuel war must be condemned The Guardian view on dystopias for our times: the American nightmare Doctors’ leader claims new reduced pay offer killed chances of ending strikes in England Netanyahu-ism has achieved nothing for Israelis – and come at a monstrously high price Deborah Levy: ‘CS Lewis’s White Witch terrified me – but I wanted to meet her’ How I Shop with Michelle Ogundehin: ‘We grownups have enough stuff already’ Trump’s war and Melania’s Epstein statement, with US editor Betsy Reed – The Latest We have to stop killer motorists on Britain’s roads UK starts crackdown on EU citizens’ post-Brexit rights Londoners aren’t unfriendly – but don’t compare us to New Yorkers The religious right and the perversion of faith Artemis II images reignite moon mission memories Orbán and Magyar trade accusations in last days of Hungary election campaign Reckonwrong: How Long Has It Been? review | Safi Bugel's experimental album of the month Martin Rowson on Middle East peace talks – cartoon Masters magic, the Grand National and Premier League drama – follow with us Fears of UK and EU flight cancellations as airports warn of jet fuel shortages Reform’s petulance over slavery reparations shows it just doesn’t grasp Britain’s place in the modern world Peers vote to ban pornography depicting sex acts between stepfamily members Starbucks’s retail arm gets £13.7m tax credit even as sales increase Flyby review – interstellar musical is a voyage of epic strangeness Grand National preview: Jagwar can deny Irish cohort in Aintree classic Week in wildlife: an ostrich on the lam, a tortoise crossing a road and surfing seals Anger as swifts’ nesting holes in Derbyshire rail viaduct ‘blocked up’ Peter Mandelson faces fixed-penalty notice for urinating in public ‘There’s no shortage of terrifying technology’: how AI became TV drama’s new go-to villain ‘Fresher than anything in a shop’: the best recipe boxes and meal kits for time-poor foodies, tested Who was Hilma? 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The mural project honouring the Black cultural heritage of Rio de Janeiro – photo essay
Tiago Rogero · 2026-05-27 · via The Guardian

Once home to the world’s largest port of arrival for enslaved Africans, Rio de Janeiro has, like the rest of Brazil, a majority Afro-descendant population.

Many of the country’s most prominent Black figures – scientists, lawyers, athletes, politicians, writers, musicians, activists and intellectuals – were either born or lived in the country’s second-largest city, which served as the capital for nearly 200 years.

A mural of the Brazilian singer-songwriter and composer Luiz Melodia
  • A mural of the Brazilian singer-songwriter and composer Luiz Melodia, painted on a wall in Estácio, the Rio de Janeiro neighbourhood where he lived

But of the 360 or so statues and busts scattered across Rio, fewer than 10% commemorate Black people: 29 men and just three women.

The striking lack of such public monuments was what drove two Black men to create a mural project that has just been recognised by law as part of the city’s intangible cultural heritage.

Fernando Cazé and Pedro Rajão, in front of one of the murals painted for the NegroMuro project.
  • Fernando Cazé, left, and Pedro Rajão, in front of one of the murals painted for the Negro Muro project

“We’re creating a cartography of Black memory,” said Pedro Rajão, 40, a researcher and producer who created the project in 2018 alongside the visual artist Fernando Sawaya, 39.

Called NegroMuro, or BlackWall, the project now comprises 80 murals spread across the city, portraying about 120 people, 60% of them men – a disparity the duo say they are working to address.

A mural of Machado de Assis
  • A mural of Machado de Assis in Rio de Janeiro

On the walls of schools, museums, train stations and even private homes there are brightly coloured, bold-lined paintings of people born in Rio – such as Joaquim Maria Machado de Assis, widely considered the greatest Brazilian writer of all time – and figures born elsewhere but who had a strong connection to the city, such as the Black feminist activist Lélia Gonzalez.

A mural of the Brazilian author, philosopher and feminist Lélia Gonzalez
  • A mural of the Brazilian author, philosopher, professor and feminist Lélia Gonzalez, painted on the campus of Pedro II in Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro

“If there are no bronze monuments, then there will be murals – large and beautiful murals,” said Sawaya, who creates and paints the works while Rajão raises funds and researches the subjects’ biographies.

Most of the murals are located in the north zone, far from the tourist-heavy south that is home to the world-famous beaches and the Christ the Redeemer statue – in a deliberate decision to focus on areas that do not receive the same level of investment or attention despite being home to a significant share of the population.

“I’ve always been very curious about the history of the neighbourhoods around where I was born, and about historic figures from those places who were never recognised,” said Rajão.

Despite its focus on Rio, the project began by portraying someone who never even set foot in Brazil: the Nigerian superstar Fela Kuti.

In 2013, Rajão was a researcher of African music and was looking for an artist to paint a mural in tribute to Kuti “because I felt he should be a popular figure in Brazil”. He was introduced through a mutual friend to Sawaya, who had been painting graffiti since the age of 13. They painted the first mural together and, five years later, the two reunited for another Kuti mural, this time opposite a public school.

Sawaya said: “As we were painting Fela, we realised: ‘Damn, there are no Black figures across the city’ … We have generals, brigadiers; everything except the people who actually built and make this city happen.”

Today, even after the success that led the project to be recognised as part of the city’s cultural heritage, they still live “from wall to wall”, said Rajão. Sometimes support comes from a government body, other times from private companies or crowdfunding. They also run workshops and guided tours, recently published a colouring book and are being commissioned to create murals in other cities such as Brasília and São Paulo.

A mural of Marielle Franco, a renowned Black councilwoman assassinated in 2018, painted in Lapa
  • A mural of Marielle Franco, a renowned Black councilwoman assassinated in 2018, painted in Lapa

All the murals have involved extensive research to decide every element of the painting, except the one honouring the city councillor Marielle Franco, created the morning after her assassination eight years ago. “It came much more from instinct, from a feeling that we needed to do something in response to that horrific death.” The painting portrays Marielle standing tall, looking defiantly upwards.

One of their most famous works stands at the heart of one of Rio’s newly sought-after tourist spots, Largo de São Francisco da Prainha, an area filled with bars and samba performances that attracts hundreds of visitors to a region known as Little Africa because of its centuries-old Afro-descendant population.

A mural of the writer Conceição Evaristo
  • A mural of the writer Conceição Evaristo painted in the region known as Little Africa

There, they painted a 20-metre-long mural of Conceição Evaristo, 79, one of Brazil’s most celebrated writers. Just a five-minute walk away is Valongo Wharf, where more than a million enslaved Africans are estimated to have arrived in the 19th century.

“When you arrive in Little Africa and look at the huge mural of Conceição, suddenly it makes more sense to understand the surroundings and say: ‘This is a Black territory’,” said Sawaya.

One thing the murals do not do is portray pain, Sawaya said: “Our concern has always been to bring beauty. There has already been enough pain attached to the history of Black people in the city, so the aim here is to tell our story in a beautiful, lighter way.”