Does paying more for a T-shirt mean that it’s more likely to be ethically made?

In short (sleeves): no. People who spend their time investigating fashion companies’ supply chains and employment practices seem united in the conclusion that money cannot necessarily buy us a clear conscience.

“Our ratings show that price is not a reliable indicator of ethical production,” says Gordon Renouf, a co-founder of the website Good on You, which has rated 7,000 brands on their published policies on the treatment of workers and animals, along with their sustainability credentials. “Many luxury and premium brands charge significantly more without demonstrating evidence of that value flowing to workers or environmental practices.”

“A higher retail price can reflect many things,” says Dr Eleanor Scott, a lecturer in fashion design, creative knit and innovation at the University of Leeds. The money may go towards “branding, marketing, retailer margins – rather than necessarily better labour or environmental standards,” she says.

Research by the university and the Waste Resource Action Programme found that price had no bearing on durability, which is a factor when you are considering sustainability. Of the top 10 best-performing T-shirts it tested, six cost less than £15, outperforming many more expensive versions, including one costing £395.

But that does not mean you can head for the cheapest T-shirt on the rail without any qualms. The experts I spoke to all suggested that while money doesn’t ensure ethics, that is only true above a certain price point. “A higher price is no guarantee, but a very low price is a strong warning sign,” says Renouf.

“There is a price point at which it is challenging for a product to be ethically made when you take into account the raw material and production costs, and ensuring workers earn a fair wage at every step in the supply chain,” says Ellie Gaffney, a senior engagement manager at the Better Cotton Initiative, which works to improve conditions for workers and make the industry more sustainable.

Gaffney didn’t want to put a number on it, saying prices depend on a lot of variables, including the retailers’ buying power: a big company may be able to buy materials cheaply because its total spend is higher. “It would be impossible to state a single price that is ‘too cheap to be ethical’,” she says. “However, if a price point feels too good to be true, it probably is.”

Renouf says that while his website has not published a specific price floor, “our ratings consistently show that low-priced fast fashion fails on labour and environmental grounds. A £3 or £5 T-shirt cannot accommodate living wages and responsible materials sourcing.”

There are affordable brands that are doing good things for workers and the planet, he adds, giving the example of Yes Friends, a UK brand rated “great” – his website’s highest ranking. Its basic unisex T-shirt starts at £12, with higher-priced styles also available. “They achieve competitive pricing through relatively large-scale production, low margins and direct-to-consumer sales,” he says.

However, Renouf adds: “While this example suggests that ethical production and affordable retail pricing are not mutually exclusive when a business model is designed around it, we don’t want to underestimate the challenges faced by more sustainable and ethical brands.”

Other UK brands with a high Good on You rating include Rapanui, which sells T-shirts from £18; Brothers We Stand (£20); THTC (£30); and Not Basics (£29.99). “While these are well below luxury prices, they are well above many high street competitors,” says Renouf. “T-shirts made with specific attention to more ethical and sustainable practices are generally more expensive because they are more likely to pay the ‘true cost’ of fashion.”

Emma Nicholas, a researcher at the Good Shopping Guide, carried out some analysis of its ethical ratings for the purpose of this article. She highlighted scenarios where highly rated companies were selling T-shirts for the same or less than lower-rated rivals.

Among others she compared activewear brands Sweaty Betty, Tala and Lululemon. All three retailers sell T-shirts at a similar price point, starting at £30-£35. But Tala has a score of 88 out of 100 from the guide, while Lululemon, whose top-priced T-shirt is £98, scores 36 and Sweaty Betty 34. (A spokesperson for Sweaty Betty says the company is “committed to the highest standards within its supply chain. We believe the data gathered in this report is largely incorrect or out of date.” Lululemon did not respond to a request for comment.)

Alex Crumbie, a researcher at Ethical Consumer, says buying certified organic cotton gives you guarantees about how its producers were treated. “Organic is better for the environment and the workers making the clothes – organic certification requires basic workers’ rights to be upheld,” Crumbie says. “Organic production also doesn’t allow pesticides, which are a problem for workers, not just the environment.”

But it’s part of the equation, adds Crumbie: “It doesn’t cover the whole supply chain. It isn’t a full guarantee that workers’ rights have been respected throughout.” For example, the people stitching together the material may not have been well treated.

One way to be sure you are doing something positive with your money at any price point is to buy secondhand, says Crumbie: “Buying secondhand is a great option because you are not increasing demand for new, unethically made clothing. It is also usually more affordable.”