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The Guardian

Rory McIlroy surges into six-shot Masters lead with stunning second-round flourish ‘That’ll be the end’: actor Sam Neill joins fight to stop controversial goldmine near his New Zealand vineyard Roberto De Zerbi targets ‘Ange-ball’ revival to save Spurs from relegation Bath hit back to reach semi-final after stunning Northampton in 11-try epic Secret Garden to Outcome: the week in rave reviews Zebras, wealth and power: Hungary’s election tests Orbán’s grip on power ‘TikTok effect’ brings sellout crowds and younger fans to Grand National meeting The war over Omagh’s gold: the £21bn mine plan tearing a community apart Britain’s shadow workforce is paid as little as 65p an hour. Who cares for the carers? From You, Me & Tuscany to Euphoria: your complete entertainment guide to the week ahead Six great reads: the man who let snakes bite him, masked heavy metal and the brutal reality for foreign students in the UK American Classic review – I defy you not to fall in love with Kevin Kline and Laura Linney’s tender comedy Cuba’s doctors were a lifeline for the world. Now the Caribbean is shamefully complicit in the US drive to expel them An environmental disaster in Moldova has Russia’s fingerprints all over it RMIT drops misconduct case against student who accused university of being ‘complicit in Gaza genocide’ Ichiro Suzuki statue unveiling goes awry as bronze bat snaps during ceremony Survivors of Epstein’s abuse accuse Melania Trump of ‘shifting burden’ on to victims European football: Real Madrid held at home by Girona to extend winless run Arne Slot insists he is ‘aligned’ with Liverpool board and fans as squad is rebuilt Kamala Harris ‘thinking about’ running for president again in 2028 JD Vance warns Iran against trying to ‘play’ the US in peace talks West Ham double up twice to thrash Wolves and put Spurs in relegation zone Trump administration releases new renderings of so-called ‘Arc de Trump’ Crispin Odey drops £79m libel claim against FT over sexual misconduct allegations Bafta apologises for events surrounding John Davidson’s Tourette’s outburst Cocktail of the week: Bar Shrimp’s la rosita – recipe New drug may extend survival in aggressive ovarian cancer, trial shows One dead and 27 injured after bus with British passengers crashes in Canary Islands Pope adds to Smith’s mass of Surrey runs with England woes a world away OpenAI CEO Sam Altman’s home targeted with molotov cocktail Reform UK local election candidate was twice disciplined by Tories over ‘racist comments’ Remaining in Nato is in best interests of US, says Keir Starmer Prince Harry sued for defamation by charity he co-founded Anthropic’s new AI tool has implications for us all – whether we can use it or not Concerns raised about motorbike tourist trail after death of British teenager in Vietnam The Guardian view on Trump’s civilisational threats: the words that fuel war must be condemned The Guardian view on dystopias for our times: the American nightmare Doctors’ leader claims new reduced pay offer killed chances of ending strikes in England Netanyahu-ism has achieved nothing for Israelis – and come at a monstrously high price Deborah Levy: ‘CS Lewis’s White Witch terrified me – but I wanted to meet her’ How I Shop with Michelle Ogundehin: ‘We grownups have enough stuff already’ Trump’s war and Melania’s Epstein statement, with US editor Betsy Reed – The Latest We have to stop killer motorists on Britain’s roads UK starts crackdown on EU citizens’ post-Brexit rights Londoners aren’t unfriendly – but don’t compare us to New Yorkers The religious right and the perversion of faith Artemis II images reignite moon mission memories Orbán and Magyar trade accusations in last days of Hungary election campaign Reckonwrong: How Long Has It Been? review | Safi Bugel's experimental album of the month Martin Rowson on Middle East peace talks – cartoon Masters magic, the Grand National and Premier League drama – follow with us Fears of UK and EU flight cancellations as airports warn of jet fuel shortages Reform’s petulance over slavery reparations shows it just doesn’t grasp Britain’s place in the modern world Peers vote to ban pornography depicting sex acts between stepfamily members Starbucks’s retail arm gets £13.7m tax credit even as sales increase Flyby review – interstellar musical is a voyage of epic strangeness Grand National preview: Jagwar can deny Irish cohort in Aintree classic Week in wildlife: an ostrich on the lam, a tortoise crossing a road and surfing seals Anger as swifts’ nesting holes in Derbyshire rail viaduct ‘blocked up’ Peter Mandelson faces fixed-penalty notice for urinating in public ‘There’s no shortage of terrifying technology’: how AI became TV drama’s new go-to villain ‘Fresher than anything in a shop’: the best recipe boxes and meal kits for time-poor foodies, tested Who was Hilma? 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‘A diverse and convivial village’: the urban eye candy of Notre-Dame du Mont, Marseille
Alexis Stein · 2026-05-03 · via The Guardian

Why go now

Named for its 19th-century neoclassical church, Notre-Dame du Mont was once a site where sailors who’d survived shipwrecks and storms made offerings of thanks. Now locals and visitors make a pilgrimage to this vibrant quarter for its restaurants, indie shops and street art. Voted Time Out’s coolest neighbourhood in the world in 2024, Notre-Dame du Mont has retained its laid-back charm while continuing to grow, stretching south on Rue de Lodi. Since December 2025, the church’s parvis has been pedestrianised. Removing the urban roar of scooters has returned the quarter to its village-like ambience – best enjoyed on one of the many tree-lined terraces.

Where to eat and drink

A fresh salad on a small plate.
Fennel salad at Bonnie’s bistro. Photograph: Annie Etheridge

The quarter reflects Marseille’s flourishing culinary scene: diverse, convivial and amplified by young chefs like Scot Megan Moore, who cooks up comfort fare with culinary heft at Bonnies. Its playlists and live jazz nights echo the vintage vibe of this former watering hole. For a taste of the Mediterranean, tuck into small plates and natural wines at Nabu & Jéro wine bar.

For food sur le pouce (on the go), check out the huge sandwiches at Razzia, which you can eat while soaking up the sun on their patio. Down the street at Durum, Sofiane Benouamane traded in his chef whites to make Levantine wraps stuffed with the most succulent meats – so gourmet that the tiny snack bar is lauded by the French gastronomic guide Gault & Millau.

Eco-friendly boulangerie Ferments creates baked delights to enjoy with small-batch coffee. For a slice of Marseille’s signature dish, order a wood-fired moitchié-moitchié (half anchovy, half emmental) at La Bella Pizza. Or, follow the scent of freshly baked crust to the Chez Papa pizza truck at the entrance to the Notre-Dame du Mont metro stop.

Where to shop

Provisions’ shelves are laden with food, wine and culinary books.
Provisions’ shelves are laden with food, wine and culinary books. Photograph: Annie Etheridge2023/Annie Etheridge

Food is also on the menu at many of Notre-Dame du Mont’s shops. Provisions’ wooden shelves are laden with an array of foodstuffs, wine and culinary books, including a small selection in English. Stay for a locally sourced lunch in the cosy shop. The fragrant tea library Lorène Millet brims with more than 200 varieties, and – thankfully – expert staff to help you choose.

Mo:stera Concept Store feeds many interests – coffee, plants and books, with a penchant for manga and graphic novels. A pioneer of the neighbourhood, the vintage fashion shop Out of Space is chock-a-block with retro finds for men and women. Digitale Pourpre stocks a well-curated selection of clothes from independent designers, while Digger Club has a funky mix of vintage finds.

Cultural experiences

The front of the bar has a huge illustrated cat made of coloured letters around the door.
La Cave À Vinyle. Photograph: Annie Etheridge

Zones is a gallery that spotlights photographers from the city and the region, and owner Alice Ducheix makes photography “more accessible” by selling affordable prints. La Baleine shows arthouse films in its intimate 88-seat cinema plus restaurant.

La Cave à Vinyle is a bar with the feel of hanging out in the living room of a friend who’s obsessed with music and wine; sample natural, biodynamic bottles to an eclectic soundtrack, from French crooner Jacques Dutronc to the West African fusion Rail Band. Garage, one of Marseille’s many comedy clubs, hosts English-speaking comics on Friday nights.

Don’t miss

A small, tiled street with graffiti and plants.
Cours Julien street art. Photograph: Salla Dinho/Alamy

At Rue de Village and Rue de Lodi, marvel at the view of Marseille’s most famous monument – and highest point – La Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. Stroll over to Cours Julien, the adjacent district, for urban eye candy. Every facade is painted with colourful street art, including the ever-changing staircase that descends to Cours Lieutaud.

Where to stay

Live like a local in the modern rooms with kitchenettes at the 18-room Maison Juste (doubles from €90). Sister property Grand Juste is a former convent with 50 rooms (sleeping up to six people) and a sunny garden (doubles from €93).