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The Guardian

Rory McIlroy surges into six-shot Masters lead with stunning second-round flourish ‘That’ll be the end’: actor Sam Neill joins fight to stop controversial goldmine near his New Zealand vineyard Roberto De Zerbi targets ‘Ange-ball’ revival to save Spurs from relegation Bath hit back to reach semi-final after stunning Northampton in 11-try epic Secret Garden to Outcome: the week in rave reviews Zebras, wealth and power: Hungary’s election tests Orbán’s grip on power ‘TikTok effect’ brings sellout crowds and younger fans to Grand National meeting The war over Omagh’s gold: the £21bn mine plan tearing a community apart Britain’s shadow workforce is paid as little as 65p an hour. Who cares for the carers? From You, Me & Tuscany to Euphoria: your complete entertainment guide to the week ahead Six great reads: the man who let snakes bite him, masked heavy metal and the brutal reality for foreign students in the UK American Classic review – I defy you not to fall in love with Kevin Kline and Laura Linney’s tender comedy Cuba’s doctors were a lifeline for the world. Now the Caribbean is shamefully complicit in the US drive to expel them An environmental disaster in Moldova has Russia’s fingerprints all over it RMIT drops misconduct case against student who accused university of being ‘complicit in Gaza genocide’ Ichiro Suzuki statue unveiling goes awry as bronze bat snaps during ceremony Survivors of Epstein’s abuse accuse Melania Trump of ‘shifting burden’ on to victims European football: Real Madrid held at home by Girona to extend winless run Arne Slot insists he is ‘aligned’ with Liverpool board and fans as squad is rebuilt Kamala Harris ‘thinking about’ running for president again in 2028 JD Vance warns Iran against trying to ‘play’ the US in peace talks West Ham double up twice to thrash Wolves and put Spurs in relegation zone Trump administration releases new renderings of so-called ‘Arc de Trump’ Crispin Odey drops £79m libel claim against FT over sexual misconduct allegations Bafta apologises for events surrounding John Davidson’s Tourette’s outburst Cocktail of the week: Bar Shrimp’s la rosita – recipe New drug may extend survival in aggressive ovarian cancer, trial shows One dead and 27 injured after bus with British passengers crashes in Canary Islands Pope adds to Smith’s mass of Surrey runs with England woes a world away OpenAI CEO Sam Altman’s home targeted with molotov cocktail Reform UK local election candidate was twice disciplined by Tories over ‘racist comments’ Remaining in Nato is in best interests of US, says Keir Starmer Prince Harry sued for defamation by charity he co-founded Anthropic’s new AI tool has implications for us all – whether we can use it or not Concerns raised about motorbike tourist trail after death of British teenager in Vietnam The Guardian view on Trump’s civilisational threats: the words that fuel war must be condemned The Guardian view on dystopias for our times: the American nightmare Doctors’ leader claims new reduced pay offer killed chances of ending strikes in England Netanyahu-ism has achieved nothing for Israelis – and come at a monstrously high price Deborah Levy: ‘CS Lewis’s White Witch terrified me – but I wanted to meet her’ How I Shop with Michelle Ogundehin: ‘We grownups have enough stuff already’ Trump’s war and Melania’s Epstein statement, with US editor Betsy Reed – The Latest We have to stop killer motorists on Britain’s roads UK starts crackdown on EU citizens’ post-Brexit rights Londoners aren’t unfriendly – but don’t compare us to New Yorkers The religious right and the perversion of faith Artemis II images reignite moon mission memories Orbán and Magyar trade accusations in last days of Hungary election campaign Reckonwrong: How Long Has It Been? review | Safi Bugel's experimental album of the month Martin Rowson on Middle East peace talks – cartoon Masters magic, the Grand National and Premier League drama – follow with us Fears of UK and EU flight cancellations as airports warn of jet fuel shortages Reform’s petulance over slavery reparations shows it just doesn’t grasp Britain’s place in the modern world Peers vote to ban pornography depicting sex acts between stepfamily members Starbucks’s retail arm gets £13.7m tax credit even as sales increase Flyby review – interstellar musical is a voyage of epic strangeness Grand National preview: Jagwar can deny Irish cohort in Aintree classic Week in wildlife: an ostrich on the lam, a tortoise crossing a road and surfing seals Anger as swifts’ nesting holes in Derbyshire rail viaduct ‘blocked up’ Peter Mandelson faces fixed-penalty notice for urinating in public ‘There’s no shortage of terrifying technology’: how AI became TV drama’s new go-to villain ‘Fresher than anything in a shop’: the best recipe boxes and meal kits for time-poor foodies, tested Who was Hilma? 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A veneer of normality has returned to Tehran, but fears for the future are rife
Stefanie Gli · 2026-05-06 · via The Guardian

In the weeks since the fragile ceasefire with the US and Israel took hold, life in Tehran has – on the surface at least – largely returned to something like pre-war normality. Many security checkpoints have been taken down, coffee shops are bustling, parks are full of people gathering for picnics, musicians are playing again in the streets, highways are jammed with traffic and the metro - free to use since the war - runs packed.

But underlying worries run deep, and many Iranians fear the war could return at any moment. The uncertainty was underlined on Monday when the US and Iran launched fresh attacks in the Gulf as the two sides continue to blockade of the strait of Hormuz. The war’s economic toll has been severe too. Many people have lost their jobs and inflation is surging. The International Monetary Fund estimates it could reach 70% this year.

Sara, 24, lost her job teaching art at an after-school centre when it shut down at the start of the war on 28 February. She has had no income since, no severance pay and has little to fall back on.

A woman in Tehran
Sara has had no income since the start of the war.

Online job platforms – still accessible through Iran’s restricted local network despite the wider internet shutdown – are flooded with people looking for work, and Sara knows that as a teacher, her prospects are slim. Schools have moved to online classes and after-school centres remain closed for now.

“I spend my free time with friends, or on the phone with my boyfriend in Canada,” she said, but she admitted that both the prospects of renewed war and inflation worried her.

Across Tehran, many are cutting back or are opting for free activities instead. Parks are crowded with people playing games and exercising, while restaurants are noticeably quieter. Larger bazaars are busy with people buying essentials or trying to earn a living. “Many vendors in the market had to shut down because of economic difficulties. The situation is very unstable,” said Sina, 25, a jewellery maker in the city’s Grand Bazaar.

A man making jewellery
Sina at work in the Grand Bazaar.

For some, work has resumed, at least in part.

Mohammad Reza, 32, a high school Arabic teacher who also works at a private university-prep institute, said that since the ceasefire he was back to teaching online.

“My students are happy to be in class again, even the ones who were never particularly interested,” he said. “The war has been exhausting for them and they genuinely want to be together, even if it’s just in front of a screen.”

A woman walking out of a building holding a drink in a cup
A woman emerges from a Tehran coffee shop.

Alongside food and medicine, tuition fees at the private institute where he teaches have risen. “Families are still willing to invest in their children’s education, but it’s not easy,” he said.

Political repression continues. More than 20 people have been executed on national security-related charges since late February, many in connection with the January protests.

The UN High commissioner for human rights, Volker Türk, said he was “appalled that on top of the already severe impacts of the conflict, the rights of the Iranian people continue to be stripped from them”.

The head of Iran’s judiciary, Gholamhossein Mohseni Ejeai, has defended the executions, saying authorities would “not neglect … the legal punishment of criminals whose hands are smeared with the blood of our people”.

On the streets of Tehran, however, the executions are rarely discussed. “Everyone’s tired and exhausted from the war,” said one woman who spoke on condition of anonymity. “Most people are worried about their incomes and the economy. We know about the executions, but there are no protests, nothing. We’re just trying to live our lives.”

People in front on a damaged building
Workers clear rubble from damaged buildings.

Sara, who took part in the Woman, Life, Freedom demonstrations in 2022, said the war had shifted her perspective, and that she was now taking part in anti-US protests.

“I’ve always been critical of my government,” she said. “But since the bombings and destruction, I’ve realised who our real enemies are, and we have to resist them.”

Tensions between Iran and the US remain high. Negotiations have stalled, and Washington’s recently announced “Project Freedom” – intended to escort stranded cargo ships through the strait of Hormuz – risks further escalation.

On Enghelab Street, one of Tehran’s main thoroughfares, none of this is visible. Jammed with traffic, home to bookshops, cafes, restaurants, and the city’s largest university, people are strolling past shop windows and catching up with friends.

Ali, 38, who works at one of the bookshops, said the transformation from deserted streets at the height of the war to something resembling normal life again has been overwhelming.

A man in a bookshop
Ali in the bookshop where he works.

“I don’t think the ceasefire will collapse,” he said, perhaps trying to convince himself. “There will be no more war.”