Scotland: from coast to coast
Route Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh
Which side should I sit? The right initially, then switch to left
Distance 83 miles (133km)
Time 2hrs 40mins
Frequency 4 trains a day (2 on Sundays)
Ticket £32 single
Operator ScotRail
There is only one rail route in Britain offering views of both the west and east coasts from a regular local train, and that’s the line from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh. For the east coast, look out for Cromarty Firth away to the right as the train approaches Dingwall, about half an hour after leaving Inverness. Later, you have good views of west coast sea lochs as the train runs down to the Atlantic coast at Kyle. And in between you’ll find alliterative desolation aplenty as it pauses at Achnashellach, Achnasheen, Achanalt and Attadale.
The last 20 minutes down to Kyle bring a magic panorama of coast, headlands and islands. The sun sparkles on Loch Carron with glorious views north to the wild Applecross peninsula. Seals shuffle for safety as we approach Duncraig and all too soon we are pulling into Kyle of Lochalsh.
Ireland: from Dublin to Wicklow
Route Dublin Connolly to Arklow
Which side? Sit on the left
Distance 50 miles
Time 1hr 45mins
Frequency 6 trains a day (3 on Sat and Sun)
Ticket €8.85 single
Operator Irish Rail
Londoners may be surprised to read that Dublin had commuter trains earlier than the UK capital. Ireland’s first railway ran from Westland Row to Kingstown (now Dún Laoghaire), a stretch of track that is now the prelude to a fine route that extends right down to Wexford and Rosslare in the south-east corner of Ireland. The spectacular coastal section just south of Dún Laoghaire is a remarkable piece of engineering as the railway cuts under Bray Head. It was designed by none other than Isambard Kingdom Brunel, and in many ways resembles his celebrated coastal railway at Dawlish in Devon.
South of Bray Head, the railway hugs the coast, with fine views of the Wicklow Hills well off to the west and the Murrough Wetlands closer to hand. Coastal purists may opt to stop at Wicklow, but I recommend staying on board to enjoy a short foray through the hills and down the Vale of Avoca, with its lush woodland. Alight in Arklow where the railway regains the coast again.
Germany: over the sea to the island of Sylt
Route Husum to Keitum
Which side? Sit on the left
Distance 44 miles
Time 1hr
Frequency Hourly trains
Ticket €21.60 single
Operator DB
One cannot fail to be impressed by the determination of the Weimar Republic’s engineers and planners who needed to build a railway to Sylt. This sandy outpost of German territory is the largest of the North Frisian Islands. The traditional route to Sylt relied on a ferry from a mainland port on territory which was ceded to Denmark after the first world war. So a causeway was constructed across the Wadden Sea to reach Sylt. It opened in 1927, and a century later the Hindenburg causeway is still car-free – and since mid-April this year it is for the very first time possible to ride a posh ICE train over the sea to Sylt.
Leaving Husum, a coastal town shaped by the herring trade, we sweep over the town’s harbour on a high bridge. There’s a cluster of fishing boats at the quayside below. Then we glide north over marshlands and meadows, all protected by high dykes to prevent the area from bring inundated.
From the train, you get a real feel for these landscapes with their distant horizons. But the sea seems far away, held at bay by dykes. That changes after Klanxbüll, where the railway turns west and crosses salty mudflats to reach the open sea. Check tide tables and make this journey at high tide – ideally on a stormy day. In such conditions, this is an unforgettable experience. Alight at Keitum, to my mind the nicest village on Sylt. From the station, it is an easy stroll into the village with several cosy cafes and a feast of fine Frisian thatch and gables.
Spain: Galicia’s spectacular fjords
Route Ribadeo to Ferrol
Which side? Sit on the right
Distance 91 miles
Time 3hrs 10mins
Frequency 4 trains a day
Ticket €11.15 single
Operator Renfe
This is a superb short journey that follows the western extremity of Europe’s most extensive narrow-gauge rail network, which runs from the French border at Hendaye through the Basque Country and along Spain’s north coast through Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia. I have mixed feelings about the route as a whole, which veers well inland and is often quite humdrum. Hendaye to Ferrol demands 20 hours on trains, but the short ride on the final section is a slow travel adventure running west from Ribadeo, with twists and turns as the train navigates the rugged coastline around Ortigueira.
The tacky beach-front development west of Ribadeo is best ignored. Soon we cut away from the motorway and regain the coast, waves breaking to the right and rich eucalyptus forest to the left. There are superb views across the great rias (estuaries), which are a hallmark of the Galician coast. Look out for Cape Ortegal away to the north. When I rode this route on a mid-winter morning, there were barely a dozen passengers aboard for most of the journey, although numbers picked up on the final half hour as we were joined by shoppers heading into Ferrol.
This is the humblest of local trains – those in search of luxury on rails may prefer the El Transcantabrico charter train, which includes Ribadeo to Ferrol as part of a wider seven-night itinerary – at eye-watering prices.
Italy: Along the Calabrian coast
Route Reggio di Calabria to Soverato
Which side? Sit on the right
Distance 100 miles
Time 2hrs 20mins
Frequency every 1 to 2 hrs
Ticket €11.90 single
Operator Trenitalia
Most tourists on the smart Frecciarossa train down the Calabrian coast decant at Villa San Giovanni to join the ferry to Sicily. From here it is just 15 minutes on to Reggio di Calabria where the fast trains from northern Italy and Rome all terminate. This seems to be the end of the line and the end of Italy. But not quite! For a local railway contours the coast of Calabria, leaving the Strait of Messina to reach Ionian shores.
No other railway in Europe hugs the coast as consistently as this stretch of the Ionian Railway, part of a longer route which extends all the way to faded Taranto in Puglia, more than 290 miles from Reggio di Calabria.
This recommended taster of the line follows the coast around the southernmost tip of mainland Italy. It is a route of capes and bays, olives and oleander, the bright drama of a changing coastline and a sharp contrast to the dark forests of Aspromonte that dominate the hills on the left. Away to the right, there is nothing but the sea between here and the Libyan coast.
Europe by Rail: The Definitive Guide (19th edition) by Nicky Gardner & Susanne Kries (Hidden Europe Publications, £21.99). To order a copy for £19.79 go to guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.