In December 2023, the magazine La Cucina Italiana ranked Italians’ favourite pasta shapes, according to data gathered by Unione Italiana Food (“the leading association in Italy for the direct representation of food product categories”). I love this sort of thing. According to the UIF, by processing NielsenIQ data (comprehensive market research, consumer intelligence and retail measurement), they identified the five most popular shapes from over 500, and examined how preferences vary in different regions.

In first place was spaghetti, while penne came in second, with these two shapes – which also takes in thinner spaghettini, chunkier spaghettoni and both ridged and smooth penne – accounting for 78% of all pasta sold in Italy in 2023. The regional variations of three, four and five are as follows: in the north-west and north-east, fusilli, short pasta and mixed pasta for broth or minestra; in central Italy, short pasta, fusilli and rigatoni; in the south, mixed pasta for broth or minestra, short pasta and tortiglioni. It has to be said that the regional variations are a bit baggy, considering that short pasta takes in eight shapes: conchiglie, farfalle, mezze maniche, orecchiette, pasta mista, penne again (which is confusing), paccheri and trofie. All of which is justification for calling this week’s column the second highest-ranking pasta shape in Italy with potatoes, cabbage, butter and cheese (while also noting that you can instead use the shapes ranked number three, four and five).

I am, however, not going to suggest you use pizzoccheri, which is best in a recipe called pizzoccheri della Valtellina, a dish typical of the alpine valley Valtellina, for which pizzoccheri (a short, fat, ribbon-like shape made with a blend of pale grey buckwheat flour and wheat flour) is boiled with greens (usually cabbage) and diced potatoes. It’s then layered with butter, a cow’s milk cheese called casera and parmesan, baked briefly and finished with garlic softened in butter. It is a wonderful dish.

It is also an inspiring dish for its method; the potato softens at the edges as it cooks with the pasta, the cabbage (which goes in later) softens enough to wrap and cling, while the melted butter, cheese and starch from the pasta cooperate and act like a starchy-but-slippy adhesive that brings everything together. I have taken this idea and adapted it for a friendly recipe, which is an absolute favourite we eat almost weekly. It’s good value, too.

This high-ranking dish is best served as soon as possible after mixing, passing around more grated cheese and some red chilli flakes for those who want them.

High-ranking penne with potatoes, cabbage, butter and cheese

Serves 4

Salt and black pepper
400-500g penne, fusilli, radiatori, or other short pasta
2 medium-sized potatoes (any kind), peeled and cut into small cubes
½ small savoy cabbage, sliced
75g butter
1 garlic clove, peeled and gently squashed (but left whole)

4-6 tbsp grated parmesan, or grana padano, plus extra to serve
Red chilli flakes, to serve (optional)

Bring a large pan of water to a boil, then add salt and stir. Add the pasta and potatoes to the boiling water, stir well, and set a timer for five minutes shy of the pasta’s cooking time. When the timer rings, add the cabbage, stir, and reset the timer for the remaining cooking time.

While everything cooks, warm a large bowl by scooping out a ladleful of pasta water, swishing it around the bowl and discarding it. In a small pan, slowly melt the butter with the squashed garlic clove. Pour the melted butter into the warm bowl, add the grated cheese and lots of black pepper.

When the timer rings, use a sieve or slotted spoon to lift the pasta, potato and cabbage out of the pan, wait a few seconds so the excess water drips back into the pan, then drop them into the warmed bowl. Swish and jolt the bowl, and stir well, adding a little pasta cooking water if you feel it needs loosening, and swish again. Serve, passing around more grated cheese and some red chilli flakes for those who want them.