Over- and under-ripe strawberries have opposite problems but the same solution: roast them. This intensifies their flavour, and also allows you to add sugar to sweeten flavourless, under-ripe fruit, while at the same time cooking away any blemishes or unpleasant soft patches.

No-churn roast strawberry ice-cream

Roast strawberries make the best ice-cream because they contain less water than fresh fruit: the roasting dehydrates them, intensifying flavour and removing excess water, which in turn helps to prevent ice crystals and a grainy texture. The sugar from the condensed milk, a splash of vodka and a pinch of salt help, too, lowering the freezing point a little further for a softer, more scoopable ice-cream. Whipping the cream, meanwhile, adds volume, which is essential for a good texture in the end result.To serve, transfer the ice-cream from the freezer to the fridge 45 minutes to an hour before serving. This will help it soften and keep a really creamy, scoopable texture.

Serves 4-6

200–300g strawberries
2 tbsp sweetener (eg, maple syrup, honey or unrefined sugar)
300ml cold double cream
180g condensed milk
1 tbsp vodka, or other neutral spirit – grappa, eau-de-vie, white rum or gin (optional)
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 pinch fine sea salt

Cut off and discard any green strawberry tops, then cut all the fruit in half lengthways. Arrange these on an oven tray lined with unbleached baking paper, then drizzle over the sweetener. Turn everything together to coat, then spread out the half berries so they have a little space around them. Roast in a 210C (190C fan)/410F/gas 6½ oven for 20-30 minutes, until the strawberries have started to shrivel and caramelise. Remove, leave to cool, then chill well before using.

Pour the cream into a large bowl, then chill until you are ready to whip (a cold bowl and cold cream speed up the whipping process, and help get better volume.

When you’re ready, whip the cold cream to stiff peaks. Fold in the condensed milk, optional neutral spirit, vanilla extract and salt until just combined, then gently fold in the cold roast strawberries and any syrupy juices from the tray.

Transfer the ice-cream mix to a sealable airtight container, then press a sheet of greaseproof paper directly on to the surface and seal (this helps protect against freezer burn). Freeze for at least five hours, until solid. Before scooping and serving, put in the fridge for 45 minutes to an hour, or leave at room temperature for 15 minutes.