Patrick Hanlon
ON A HOT day by the seaside, there’s nothing like a fast-melting 99, trickling down your hands in sweet, milky streams.
What is it about fish and chips by the seaside, too? The mercury could inch over 30ºC, and we’d still be burning the roofs of our mouths on battered haddock, fresh from the fryer and fat, hand-cut chips, pale and crisp outside but molten in their fluffy middle.
There’s something about looking out over the water and eating fish and chips that makes it taste better. Maybe it’s the feeling you’re closer to source, therefore fresher and better, or is it the salty sea air that seems to season every bite that bit better.
As an island nation, Ireland not only benefits from supreme access to fresh fish but also enough coastline for us all, and then some.
From rocky inlets and long, golden strands to historic piers and seaside beauty spots, Ireland has no shortage of spectacular coastal spots to eat at. From trucks and container shacks to fishmongers and chip shops, the hardest part is choosing your view.
Here are 10 for starters:
Fisherman’s Catch, Clogherhead
Howth and Skerries may pull a lot of the coastal focus north of the capital, but it’s the bustling seaside village of Clogherhead that many argue purveys the finest fish and chips.
Fisherman’s Catch is the popular food truck perched right on the working Port Oriel harbour beside Kirwan’s Fish Cart, the area’s best fish shop, run by the Kirwan family, fourth-generation fisherman whose own fleet supplies their counter, landed outside the door.
Get some freshly shucked oysters for €2.20 a pop in the shop, then fill up on sensational fish and chips while soaking in the harbour view and vista of the Mourne and Cooley mountains.
Don’t miss the beautiful headland walk, remarked as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and famed for its unique geology.
Harry’s Shack, Portstewart
A critically-acclaimed shack-style restaurant uniquely set on Portstewart Strand, where the fish and chips are legendary, and when the sun shines, it can rival Bondi or Barceloneta.
Owner Donal Doherty opened the spot in 2015 as a sister site to Harry’s across the border in Bridgend, which his father founded and which ran for almost 30 years.
The menu is hyperlocal, and Doherty points out the window to where the daily catch is landed. No trip to the Causeway Coast is complete without a feed at Harry’s.
Fisk, Downings
Nestled into the most picturesque little nook overlooking Sheephaven Bay, Fisk shares space with the iconic Harbour Bar and offers a global take on local catch.
From spring rolls and banh mi to dumplings, chowder and toasties, it’s the tacos that made their name and remain the signature.
Though this no-reservations spot found in one of Donegal’s furthest tips might feel like a pilgrimage to travel to, it rewards brilliantly with its dishes, with the added bonus of one of Ireland’s best pints right next door.
Morton’s, Ballycastle
A traditional fish and chip kiosk that has stood the test of time, the Morton family have been serving their Ballycastle community for over a century.
Right by the marina, and within touching distance of the popular Rathlin Island ferry departure point, it’s open until 8 pm daily.
While it does open for lunch around the weekend, it’s most popular in the evening with fish suppers flying out the door, seven days a week.
Julia’s Lobster Truck, Clare & Limerick
While Julia is her name and lobster is her game, Julia Hemingway’s turquoise-coloured truck is a slight misnomer.
Lobster is seasonal, so hers is a movable feast, and more broadly a love letter to shellfish, from grilled, buttered lobster and mussels to oysters and dressed crab.
The chips are always fried in beef dripping for flavour, the signature ‘sexy sauce’ is unmissable and certain specials come in and go like the tide, from a Goan curry to a French-style seafood bisque.
While her home area remains the Clare coastline (villages of Bellharbour, Liscannor and Ballyvaughan), a recent ongoing pop-up at the Milk Market in Limerick has seen the coastline spectacularly delivered to the city centre, while Julia is also a regular at festivals throughout the year.
Snappy Snappy, Connemara
While not a fish and chip spot, the postcard setting has to be experienced, the perfect little pit-stop while drinking in the astounding natural beauty of Connemara.
You can’t miss the bright red container perched on Dooneen Pier, flanked by colourful picnic tables.
Just outside the village of Letterfrack in Connemara, between Rosleague Manor and Kylemore Abbey, this crab shack solely specialises in fresh crab, either lavished into buttery brioche rolls or generously heaped onto open sandwiches, with a side of dressed greens.
Run by the Nagle family, this is a single-item kind of menu, though some specials come on board sporadically.
And Chips, Dungarvan
Eunice Power’s gourmet fish and chip shop prettily occupies Davitts Quay in Dungarvan with picnic benches right by the marina for al fresco seafood feasting.
The menu is built around seasonality and sustainability, so expect a daily-changing line-up of white fish, from ling and hake to haddock, in various forms, from spice boxes and burgers to tacos and sandwiches.
Fish Basket, Long Strand
Impressively overlooking Long Strand in West Cork, The Fish Basket is run by Peter and Elaine Shanahan, who source their catch from Union Hall, a short drive up the coast.
Expect breaded scampi, crispy battered white fish, tacos and open crab sandwiches, which are ideally followed by either a walk along the golden strand or exploring the nearby woodland on one of the Castlefreke walking trails.
Worth noting this is a no-reservations restaurant and the kitchen is fully running Thursday to Monday, but on Tuesdays and Wednesdays it’s just the cafe arm open for coffee and cake.
East Pier, Dunmore East
Right by the harbour in Dunmore East is East Pier, a fish shop and takeaway open seven days a week, 12:30 pm to 8:30 pm in the summer season.
Cranking out calamari, scampi, tacos, burgers and fish and chips, if you’re after freshly-shucked oysters and a glass of Champagne, that’s on the menu too.
Say Fish, Dun Laoghaire
Try to walk along Dun Laoghaire’s East Pier and resist Say Fish’s signature seaweed salted chips, Cajun-spiced pollock or panko-breaded prawns.
Spectacularly seasoned, generously portioned and hot and fast, every single time.
Patrick Hanlon is a writer, food critic and columnist with TheJournal.ie.