Greece's second-largest island is probably one you’ve never heard of, and I’ve had reservations about sharing the secret of this unspoiled haven. So far, it has escaped over-tourism. Evia is a mountainous, agrarian island, almost seahorse shaped, laying long and close to the east of the mainland. So close, at one point a bridge knits the lands together.
Heading there by ferry at the end of April for a yoga and hiking holiday with Much Better Adventures, I first met my group of fellow travellers on a beach near the port of Agia Marina.
This was not my first solo or adventure holiday, having travelled in India, Central Asia, and Cuba.
Before it began, I’d had little time to conjure expectations, and have learned it is best not to, as group dynamics can’t be predicted. Much Better Adventures offers many options for all kinds of fitness levels, from as near as the UK to as far away as Africa. This was my first holiday in almost two years, and I was craving adventure, so spent time wavering between kayaking in Albania to hiking Norwegian fjords. What had stood out was the opportunity to return to Greece, coupled with practicing yoga, and eating from the land.
This was my third time to visit Greece and I’d always bypassed Athens. To optimise the trip, I arrived two days earlier and stayed in the bohemian enclave of Exarchia, the scene of vintage shops and students riots. I was blown away by the warmth of the Athenians and the value for money.
The Airbnb, a steal compared to Dublin prices, was a high-tech studio on top of an apartment block with a large outdoor terrace to watch the sun falling over the vast city. On the final day, host Ioannis dropped me to the local underground station for my onward travel and island adventure.
Picked up at Chalandri train station, along with others already in Athens, immediately the easy conversations began. A second group met at the airport. On that first windy, overcast day on a beach near Marathon town, two groups converged.
Our guides, Dimitris and Daiana, well-practised in hospitality, stepped aside and let the introductions happen organically. We were a group of 12, mainly women, from England, Scotland, and the US. I was the only Irish person in the group. The majority had travelled solo, and most had left spouses or partners back home.
A quick ferry crossing and a 20-minute drive, brought us to the sleepy coastal town of Marmari and onto the Celini Suites — a rustic, hillside hotel with an infinity pool and sweeping views down to the Aegean Sea. This would be our base for six nights, and we had the place to ourselves. There was little time to unpack or rest, as being hungry from travel, we’d all requested an earlier dinner reservation at a traditional taverna. Dimitris, as we’d learn was his way, made things happen seamlessly. Mezza style, platters of Greek salad, tzatziki, grilled white fish, fried sprats, baked aubergine, spanakopita, bean and potato stew, red and rose wine, poured from the kitchen. With a group of like-minded, well-travelled people, laughter and conversation flowed, and the welcome feast set the tone for what would follow.
If you crave or need downtime on your holidays, this is not the type of trip for you. The days were packed. Beginning with Daiana’s yoga at 8am, we breathed and stretched together. All levels were catered too, but the standard of the group was high, and Daiana led her vinyasa style classes with ease and fun. Breakfast followed, where hotel staff ensured we were well fed with omelettes or cheese tarts, cereals, fruit, thick Greek yogurt (a world away from what is available here!), and cakes and bread.
Next, a quick change and off we’d head for the day’s hiking. Daiana would remind us each day what to pack, so little thinking was required.
Evia was devastated when wildfires raged there in the summer of 2021. The summer months are hot and the land becomes arid. Springtime and Evia is green.
Aside from a cold start, during our visit, temperatures averaged 23C — ideal for hiking.
Our first, at Dimosaris Gorge, followed a pathway upstream for about 400m, passing natural pools and waterfalls. Evidence of any wildfires was erased by carpets of lavender, wild orchids, red poppies, thyme, mountain tea, wild scabious, and chamomile.
Lunch was a picnic at a shaded clearing beside the stream. Salad, breadsticks, hummus, and fruit, and as I can only speak for myself, a sense of peace was descending, with the only obligation to put one foot in front of the other and marvel at the landscape. The return journey involved a stop for a swim in the Aegean.
A tideless, clear sea, not everyone was brave enough for its cool waters. For the regular cold dippers, it was a cinch. Restorative yoga on the terrace and a dinner of stuffed peppers, ratatouille, and fish wound up the day.
Mount Ochi, or the mountain of springs, is one of the highest points on Evia. 400-year-old chestnut trees dot the foothills. The climb to visit the mysterious Drakospita, or Dragon Houses, on its summit is challenging with hiking poles obligatory.
The two-hour climb begins with a steep, shale path, that eases a little the higher you go. We ascended above the clouds, winding around the rocky summit to see the well-preserved dwellings, one now a makeshift church. Built in the fourth or fifth century BC, using huge pieces of rock slotted together like a jigsaw without any connective material. Dimitris explained that no one knows what the dwellings had been constructed for, theories involve either sanctuaries for the gods, crop storage or military outposts.
At a 1,300m elevation, with 365-degree views, you can understand why the gods felt close at hand.
Walking back down the ancient path worn by quarry workers who’d carved out marble to build the Acropolis, we passed massive, prone, doric columns.
At what turn in history were they left there, abandoned?
The tough day of hiking was rewarded with outdoor yoga under an oriental plane tree. Planted in village squares all over Greece, the expansive canopies serve as shade, inviting congregation.
This holiday provided too many highlights to record within these pages. Standout moments included impromptu DJing and sing-alongs on road trips; eating mastic (tree resin) flavoured ice cream; scrambling over rocks to swim in the ice-cold pool of a waterfall; visiting Kostas, a former city dweller turned impassioned beekeeper, who’d returned home to his island to make honey and talk to the bees.
By our final day, the easy conversation and laughter flowed between the group as we trekked downwards from Agios Dimitrios Gorge, a stunning location that leads to the secluded cove. Conversations revolved around books, films, food, a little politics (one of the group worked as a political researcher in Washington DC), the politics of jury selection (another, a corporate lawyer). Of course, travel was a recurring theme and I was fascinated by how some people made their lives and jobs fit around their next journey. That this was a possible way to live. The day-to-day of our living was not discussed, fully left behind, to be picked up later again. There was room to breathe, to be inspired. Space to imagine, and envisage a longer, further adventure.
Finally reaching the cove of Kallianos, this time everyone braved the cold waters for our last plunge in the sea, to be held by the clear, blue water.
Later, yoga practice on the beach culminated in headstands all around. For a different perspective. For a change of scene.
Escape Notes
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