Ingredients

• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

• 1 medium onion, sliced

• 1 garlic clove, crushed

• ½-1 red chilli, chopped

• 900g very ripe tomatoes, peeled, in summer or 2½ x 400g tins of tomatoes in winter

• zest of 1 organic lemon

• 1-2 tsp chopped fresh rosemary, depending on the strength of flavour (chop just before you use)

• 225g chorizo, peeled and diced

• 850ml homemade chicken or vegetable stock

• 175ml double cream

• 300-350g fettuccine or spaghetti

• 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

• 30g freshly grated Parmesan cheese

• flaky sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and a generous pinch of sugar, to taste

Method

1. Heat the oil in a 6-litre stainless-steel saucepan. Add the onions and garlic, toss until coated, cover and sweat over a gentle heat until soft but not coloured. Add the chilli. It is vital for the success of this dish that the onions are completely soft before the tomatoes are added.

2. Slice the fresh or tinned tomatoes and add to the onions with all the juices and the lemon zest. Season with salt, pepper and sugar (tinned tomatoes need lots of sugar because of their high acidity). Add the rosemary. Cook, uncovered, for a further 10 minutes, or until the tomato softens. Cook fresh tomatoes for a shorter time to preserve the lively fresh flavour.

3. Add the chorizo, stock and cream. Bring back to the boil, add the pasta, stir gently to separate the strands and prevent sticking. Return to the boil, cover and simmer for 4 minutes and leave to sit in the tightly covered saucepan for a further 4-5 minutes, or until just al dente. When you add the dried pasta, it will seem too much but hold your nerve, it will soften within a minute or two and cook deliciously in the sauce.

4. Season to taste, sprinkle with lots of chopped parsley and grated Parmesan. Serve.

Ingredients

• 300g “00” flour

• 25g semolina flour

• pinch of salt

• 1 large egg and 3-4 large egg yolks, preferably free range

• 1 tsp olive oil

• 1 tsp cold water

• 225ml double cream

• 45g butter

• 65g freshly grated Parmesan cheese

• salt and freshly ground pepper (4-6 twists of the mill)

• a very tiny grating of nutmeg

Method

1. First make the pasta.

2. Sieve the flour into a bowl and add the salt. Make a well in the centre, add the eggs (no need to whisk the eggs), oil and water. Mix into a dough with your hand. The pasta should just come together but shouldn't stick to your hand - if it does add a little more flour. (If it is too dry, add a little extra egg white being careful not to add too much.)

3. Knead for 10 minutes until it becomes elastic. It should be quite pliable, wrap in parchment paper and rest in the fridge for 20 minutes.

4. Divide the dough in half and roll out one piece at a time into a very thin sheet, keeping the other piece covered. You ought to be able to read the print on a matchbox through the pasta. A pasta machine or long thin rolling pin is a great advantage, but you can manage perfectly well with an ordinary domestic rolling pin.

5. Cut into strips, 3mm wide.

6. Choose a heavy, low-sided saucepan that can later hold all the cooked fettuccine comfortably. Put in 150ml of the cream and all the butter and simmer over medium heat for less than a minute, until the butter and cream have thickened. Turn off the heat.

7. Bring 8 pints of water to the boil. Add 1 tablespoon of salt, then drop in the fettuccine and cover the pot until the water returns to the boil. If the fettuccine is fresh, they will be done in a few seconds after the water returns to the boil. If dry, it will take a little longer. (Cook the fettuccine even firmer than usual because it will be cooked more in the pan.) Drain immediately, save a little pasta cooking water and transfer to the pan containing the butter and cream.

8. Turn on the heat under the pan to low, and toss the fettuccine, coating them with sauce. Add the rest of the cream, all the grated cheese, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Toss briefly until the cream has thickened and the fettuccine is well coated. It should be a loose texture, add a drop more cooking water if necessary. Check seasoning. Serve immediately from the pan, with an extra bowl of grated cheese.

9. Some riffs on the recipe

Ingredients

• 300g “00” flour

• 25g semolina flour

• pinch of salt

• 1 large egg and 3-4 large egg yolks, preferably free range

• 1 tsp olive oil

• 1 tsp cold water

• 225ml double cream

• 45g butter

• 65g freshly grated Parmesan cheese

• salt and freshly ground pepper (4-6 twists of the mill)

• a very tiny grating of nutmeg

• For the basil pesto

• 110g fresh basil leaves

• 175-225ml extra virgin olive oil

• 25g fresh pine kernels (taste when you buy to make sure they are not rancid)

• 2 large cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

• 50g freshly grated Parmesan cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano is best)

• salt to taste

Method

1. First make the pasta.

2. Sieve the flour into a bowl and add the salt. Make a well in the centre, add the eggs (no need to whisk the eggs), oil and water. Mix into a dough with your hand. The pasta should just come together but shouldn't stick to your hand - if it does add a little more flour. (If it is too dry, add a little extra egg white being careful not to add too much.)

3. Knead for 10 minutes until it becomes elastic. It should be quite pliable, wrap in parchment paper and rest in the fridge for 20 minutes.

4. Divide the dough in half and roll out one piece at a time into a very thin sheet, keeping the other piece covered. You ought to be able to read the print on a matchbox through the pasta. A pasta machine or long thin rolling pin is a great advantage, but you can manage perfectly well with an ordinary domestic rolling pin.

5. Cut into strips, 3mm wide.

6. Choose a heavy, low-sided saucepan that can later hold all the cooked fettuccine comfortably. Put in 150ml of the cream and all the butter and simmer over medium heat for less than a minute, until the butter and cream have thickened. Turn off the heat.

7. Bring 8 pints of water to the boil. Add 1 tablespoon of salt, then drop in the fettuccine and cover the pot until the water returns to the boil. If the fettuccine is fresh, they will be done in a few seconds after the water returns to the boil. If dry, it will take a little longer. (Cook the fettuccine even firmer than usual because it will be cooked more in the pan.) Drain immediately, save a little pasta cooking water and transfer to the pan containing the butter and cream.

8. Turn on the heat under the pan to low, and toss the fettuccine, coating them with sauce. Add the rest of the cream, all the grated cheese, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Toss briefly until the cream has thickened and the fettuccine is well coated. It should be a loose texture, add a drop more cooking water if necessary. Check seasoning. Serve immediately from the pan, with an extra bowl of grated cheese.

9. Whizz the basil with the olive oil, pine kernels and garlic in a food processor or pound in a pestle and mortar. Remove to a bowl and fold in the finely grated Parmesan cheese. Taste and season.

10. *Pesto keeps for weeks, covered with a layer of olive oil in a jar in the fridge. It also freezes well but for best results don't add the grated Parmesan until it has defrosted. Freeze in small jars for convenience.

11. To serve

12. Cook the pasta and drain immediately once cooked. Mix 3 tablespoons of Basil Pesto with the pasta and a little pasta water. Sprinkle with freshly grated parmesan and serve immediately.