Your pizza game might mirror mine. You’ve invested in a nice pizza oven,
learned how to use it, and made pizza night a new tradition at home. But, have you struggled with where to put it—balancing prep area, table space, and a spot for the propane tank? I know I did.
I finally took the time to do something about it—and you can, too. I designed this pizza oven cart with flexibility in mind: There is room to store pizza dough boxes and other supplies, and you can adjust the dimensions to fit your oven and storage needs. Feel free to even swap out materials for the side panels to suit your personal style.
You can build this pizza oven cart exactly as we have, but we love when you take our ideas and run with them—customizing, altering, or improving to make a great project even better. Have fun with it and build something that will make you proud.
□ Welder (arc, MIG, or TIG)
□ Angle grinder
□ Metal chop saw, band saw, or hacksaw
□ Square
□ Clamps
□ Rivet nut tool
□ Assorted screwdrivers and wrenches
□ Miter or circular saw
□ Drill
□ Assorted drill bits
□ ⅝, ¾, and 1-inch Forstner drill bits
□ Jigsaw
□ 1" x 1" x ¹⁄₁₆" square steel tubing: 46" (x2); 40" (x2); 22" (x4); 34" (x4); 20" (x1)
□ 1½" x 1½" x ⅛" angle iron: 18" (x6); 36" (x2)
□ 1" x 1" x ⅛" angle iron: 20" (x2)
□ 1" x ⅛" steel flat bar stock: 6" (x8); 20" (x2)
□ Pallet slats—quantity depending on width, but enough to make: two 37½" x 33½" panels; one 19½" x 33½" panel
□ 24" x 42" stone countertop
□ Silicone adhesive
□ 17½" x 19¾" piece of ¾" plywood
□ 17¾" x 19½" piece of ¼" plywood (x2)
□ Set of 3" caster wheels (two swivel, two fixed)
□ ⅝" round magnets (x4)
□ M8-1.25 rivet nuts (x12)
□ M8-1.25 x 20mm flanged hex head bolts (x12)
□ #8 x ½" truss head screws (x8)
□ Sandpaper, assorted grits
□ Self-etching primer spray paint
□ Matte black spray paint
□ Pizza dough proofing boxes (x2 or more)
□ Optional: stain/paint
This pizza oven cart has a sturdy metal frame, so you’ll need a welder. Any type will do, but a metal inert gas (MIG) or tungsten inert gas (TIG) welder will require less finishing. If you choose to make the side panels from pallets, you can usually find them free or cheap on Facebook Marketplace. You could also use metal barn siding, T111 plywood, salvaged planks, picket fence panels, or lattice—use your imagination. For the top, we got a stone countertop remnant at a local dealer—they’ll usually cut these to size and finish the edges for you. You could also make the top out of butcher block, but it may be hard to maintain if you store the cart outside.
Cut the square steel tubing into the following lengths: 46 inches (x2), 40 inches (x2), 22 inches (x4), and 20 inches (x1). These will be used to make two rectangles, so the ends of each piece will need to be miter cut at 45 degrees.
Mitering the square tubing, two at a time.
Lay the pieces out to make one 22 x 46-inch (top frame) and one 22 x 40-inch (bottom frame) rectangle. Tack the outside and inside corners. Check that each corner is square and that the frame is flat, then weld all sides of each joint.
Once the tubes are tacked together, weld the joints fully.
Lay the top frame (22 x 46 inches) flat, measure 40 inches from the end of both long sides, and make a mark—this is where the upright portions of the frame will connect. Position the 20-inch piece of square tubing across the inside of the frame so that it's even with the 40-inch mark. Check for square, tack in place, and then weld. The last 6 inches of the top frame will stick out the end of the cart to serve as a handle. Finish welds smoothly.
Lining up the top frame, over the bottom frame, will help line up the cross bar.
Cut four lengths of square steel tubing 34 inches long. These will connect the top and bottom frames. Flip the top frame (22 x 46 inches) so it is standing on edge, and using a square and clamps, position one 34-inch upright on the corner and align a second upright with the cross bar at 40 inches. Tack them in place. Then stand the bottom frame on edge, position it at the ends of the two uprights using a square and clamps, and tack it to each of the uprights.
Clamp the parts firmly, and check the uprights for square, both vertically and horizontally, before tacking them in place.
Align and tack the second side uprights. Re-check all joints for square and weld fully.
Flip the frame over and position the two remaining uprights between the top and bottom frames. Check for square, clamp, and tack weld in place. Stand the structure up and recheck for square, then weld the joints—alternate corners, and only weld one side of a joint at a time. Finish welds smoothly.
Cut eight pieces of flat bar stock 6 inches long, then miter cut the ends at 45 degrees. These will brace the corners of each long side of the cart and be used to mount the side panels. Clamp them flush with the inside of the frame, tack in place, and then weld.
Clamp a piece of steel flush to the inside of the frame for the brace to rest on, then tack it in.
Once all the braces are tacked in, go around and weld then in from the inside.
Cut two pieces of the 1 x 1-inch angle iron 20 inches long. These will mount on the inside of the bottom of the frame on the end opposite the handle. Clamp the first against the end of the frame—flush with the bottom—then tack and weld. Measure 19 inches from the upright along each side of the frame and make a mark. Align the second piece of angle iron on the inside of your mark, clamp even with the bottom of the frame, tack in place, and then weld it in.
Weld the first piece of angle iron to the end of the frame. The second one needs to line up parallel to the first, 19 inches from the end.
Cut two pieces of the flat bar stock 20 inches long. These will be installed on the opposite end of the cart from the handle. Align the first one at the top of the uprights, ensuring it’s flush with the inside of the frame, then clamp it in place. Tack both ends and weld in a couple places along the top of the frame. Align the second piece inside the bottom of the same two uprights—flush with the inside of the frame—at the bottom and clamp it in place. Tack both ends and weld in place along the bottom as you did the top.
To keep the flat bar flush with the inside of the frame, clamp a scrap of steel behind it.
After you’ve tacked it in, weld the ends on the inside, and three or four places along its length.
Cut two pieces of the 1¼ x 1¼-inch angle iron 36 inches long, which will support the back ends of each rail. These mount vertically on the inside of the frame, 18 inches from the end with the handle and positioned with the flat side facing the handle. Clamp one on each side. Check the measurements from the end and be sure they are square before tacking them in and fully welding them in place.
Carefully clamp and position the uprights where the ends of the shelf rails mount.
When they’re parallel to the end of the frame, tack them and then weld fully.
Note: We’re adding three pairs of rails for two dough boxes and a wooden box made from pallet scraps. You can add more if you like or change the spacing to suit your needs.
Cut six pieces of the 1¼ x 1¼-inch angle iron 18 inches long. These will be mounted horizontally to form rails to support shelves for pizza dough boxes. The first two rails will be mounted 6 inches down from the top of the frame. So, measure on the end, beneath the handle, and on the vertical angle iron mid-frame. Clamp, tack, and weld both sides. The next pair of rails will attach 5 inches lower in the same fashion. And the third pair of rails will mount 24 inches down from the top.
Use clamps to carefully position the rails. On the end you can clamp directly to the frame, but the other end will butt against the upright, so use the clamp as a stop for the rail to rest on.
The long side panels can be made with the pallet slats oriented either vertically or horizontally. We chose the latter because it created less waste and required fewer slats. The inside dimensions of the frame should be 38 inches by 34 inches. Subtract ¼ inch from each dimension to create a ⅛-inch gap on all sides. So, the panel will need to be 37¾ inches wide by 33¾ inches tall. Double check your frame dimensions and adjust as needed.
Start by laying out your pallet slats, one above the other, until you’ve reached the height needed. If you get close, you may choose to space them out evenly, leaving gaps to reach the desired height. We kept them tight and ripped the last slat to fit.
Once you have them laid out and the top and bottom edges are parallel, measure the length (37½ inches) along one edge. Use a square to help mark your vertical cut lines. Measure between opposite corners to be sure the panel will be square—the two measurements should be the same. Now, cut the slats to length. Cut them individually or use a track saw to cut them all at once.
To keep the panel square measure across opposite corners. When the two measurements match, the panel is square.
If you have a track saw, you can cut the slats all at once. If not, mark them and cut each individually.
With the horizontal slats cut and laid out, you’ll need to connect them all with two vertical slats. Rip the connecting slats into 2½-inch strips for the verticals and bevel cut the ends. Position the slats 4 inches from each end of the panel.
Mark where the vertical slat will be positioned on the inside, so that you know where to drill or screw when it’s clamped to the other side.
Assembling the panel can be done with screws or nails from the inside or outside—choose the correct-length fasteners for the thickness of your slats. We opted to hide the fasteners and screw them from the back. When the panels are complete, test-fit in the frame and trim as needed.
Staggering your screws will help prevent from racking out of square.
The end panel will be made in the same fashion as the side panels, except it will be 19½ inches wide. Cut your slats to length and lay one above the other until you’ve reached the height needed—ours is 33¾ inches. Again, space them evenly to reach that height, or keep them tight and rip the last slat to the exact height to fit. Test-fit the panel and trim as needed.
Use a piece of ¾-inch plywood for the floor where the propane tank will go. Measure between the two angle iron flanges—it should be about 18 inches, and the width of the frame should be 20 inches. Trim your plywood to fit, about 17½ x 19¾ inches. Then, find the center by drawing lines across opposite corners. Use a compass to draw a circle 8¼ inches in diameter and cut it out with a jigsaw. This will center the propane tank on the floor.
The hole for the ring on the bottom of the propane tank should be in the center of the shelf.
Now, cut two pieces of ¼-inch plywood that measures 17¾ x 19½ inches. Set these between the rails to support the dough boxes.
Remove the side and end panels, as well as the shelves. Flip the frame upside down and position the fixed wheels on the end with the handle—the swivel wheels will go on the other end. Mark the three holes that sit over the frame for each wheel.
Position the casters and mark the hols on the frame. Then use a punch in the center of the marks to make it easier to sto start the drill.
Then use a ¹⁷⁄₃₂-inch drill bit to make the three holes on each corner. Use the rivet nut tool to install rivet nuts in each hole. Test-fit the wheels using the M8-1.25 x 20mm flanged hex head bolts. Remove wheels to prepare for painting.
Fit the rivet nuts and set them with the rivet nut tool.
Sand the frame, starting with 150-grit and going up to 400-grit. You don’t need to spend a lot of time on the inside surfaces, as those won’t be visible once the panels are installed. Focus on the outside edges of the frame. Prime the frame with etching primer, then finish with at least three coats of paint. Finish, seal, or leave the wood side panels natural, if desired.
Use self etching primer before applying a finish coat of color.
We chose a semi-transparent stain, but you can use lighter stain, paint, a clear finish, or leave the wood to age naturally.
First, install the caster wheels so the frame will be easier to move around during assembly. Then, drill a ⁵⁄₃₂-inch hole in the center of each of the angled corner brackets. Set the first side panel in place, keeping the gap to the frame even around all edges. Fasten with one #8 x ¾-inch truss head screw through each angle bracket (a). Do this for each side.
Attach the side panels with one screw through each corner bracket.
The end panel needs to be removable so you can access the propane tank. We used four strong, round magnets to hold the panel in place—two on the top and two on the bottom. Use a ⅝-inch Forstner bit to make a round pocket so the magnet will sit flush with the wood. Make sure to line up the pocket with the vertical slat on the outside so the screw for the magnet has enough material to hold.
Use a Forstner drill bit to set the magnets flush with the inside surface of the end panel.
Drill a single 1-inch hole in the center of the panel near the top. This will allow you to pull the panel off with your finger.
Apply several strips of silicone adhesive to the top of the frame—be sure to get each corner and a couple spots on each side. Recruit a helper to set the stone countertop in place. It should overhang by 1 inch on all sides. Let the silicone set overnight.
Use strips of silicone to glue the top in place.
Place sticks or dowels across the frame, between the strips of silicone. Set the top on the sticks and position it with an even overhang all the way around. Lift one end, remove the stick and lower the top in place, then do the same on the other end.
There is one last hole to drill: Place your pizza oven on top to see where the propane hose is located. Drill a hole big enough to fit the hose through at the top of the side panel. Most have a quick release fitting about 1 to 1¼ inches in diameter.
Install the propane tank shelf and the dough box shelves. Slide in the dough boxes and any other storage boxes you may have planned for, and you’re ready to make pizza.
Enjoy your new mobile, pizza making station.
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Brad Ford has spent most of his life using tools to fix, build, or make things. Growing up he worked on a farm, where he learned to weld, repair, and paint equipment. From the farm he went to work at a classic car dealer, repairing and servicing Rolls Royces, Bentleys, and Jaguars. Today, when he's not testing tools or writing for Popular Mechanics, he's busy keeping up with the projects at his old farmhouse in eastern Pennsylvania.
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