We study the problem of independence testing given independent and identically distributed pairs taking values in a $σ$-finite, separable measure space. Defining a natural measure of dependence $D(f)$ as the squared $L^2$-distance between a joint density $f$ and the product of its marginals, we first show that there is no valid test of independence that is uniformly consistent against alternatives of the form $\{f: D(f) \geq ρ^2 \}$. We therefore restrict attention to alternatives that impose additional Sobolev-type smoothness constraints, and define a permutation test based on a basis expansion and a $U$-statistic estimator of $D(f)$ that we prove is minimax optimal in terms of its separation rates in many instances. Finally, for the case of a Fourier basis on $[0,1]^2$, we provide an approximation to the power function that offers several additional insights. Our methodology is implemented in the R package USP.