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A Wiener Werkstätte postcard by Urban Janke, 1908.
Combining SZA’s wish for “a feeling of regality,” with her the arty Met theme, the designer landed on the Wiener Werkstätte, (Vienna Workshop), the highly influential pre-war design collective focused on craftsmanship and natural themes, as inspiration. (Fun fact: Couturier Paul Poiret was inspired to start his own arts school by the Wiener Werkstätte.) Turning to the Met as a resource, Bode researched Viennese fashion plates as well as those from the 18th-century. These account for the beautiful fullness of the two-tiered flounced skirt and the basque-shaped corset.
Bode was charmed to learn that the Viennese artists filled the studio each day with fresh flowers. This, she felt, “aligned with SZA’s spontaneity and love of the natural world. Her affinity for moths, butterflies, and other insects, alongside her world travels and [interest in ] specific deities, played a significant role in shaping the final look.” To wit: The beaded panels take the form of butterfly wings. The embroidery is done with gold and silver beads and sequins, with pendant strings of faceted crystal beads and cowrie shells adding a romantic, swaying movement.
2022: In Vivienne Westwood for “In America: An Anthology of Fashion.”
2018: In Atelier Versace for “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination.”
Not only does the color of her custom Bode mark a change from the blush pink Atelier Versace and fuchsia Vivienne Westwood SZA wore previously to the Met, but there is no slit for a leg-out stance. Bode Aujla has instead focused on a train, attached high on the back of the corset in the manner of an 18th-century robe française. “SZA recently travelled to India and loves to support craft practices from all over the world,,” the designer explained, “so one of the things I laid out during the process was floral appliqués cut from remnants of saris. These remnants melded well with antique rhinestones and cabochons from Europe, quartz beads from New York, and hand-painted silk wings from my studio.” The train features two “wings” that have tassels that cascade from flowers at the top center back. French burlesque costumes are a constant source of inspiration to Bode, and tucked into the décolletage are flowers in soft orange and pink tones. This Vogue x eBay x Bode x SZA gown is a wonderful blend of show girl pizazz and romanticism.
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