“When people visit Scotland, they often visit Glasgow or Edinburgh but they very rarely visit both together,” says author Douglas Stuart. “It’s such a miss because the cities are less than an hour apart, the trains are easy, and the vibes are so different. Edinburgh is the great beauty, a UNESCO heritage site, home to the castle, and the famous old town with its cobbled streets and wynds, while Glasgow is a more modern city, bursting with youth and personality, great restaurants, and the most incredible live music scene. I am a Gemini so I need a bit of both.”

The Glasgow-born and -raised Stuart wrote 2020’s Shuggie Bain, his Booker-Prize-winning debut novel; Young Mungo; and now John of John (Grove Press), about an art school graduate who returns home to his father’s sheep farm in the Outer Hebrides. Stuart studied fashion and textiles in Edinburgh and worked as a designer in New York at Calvin Klein, Banana Republic, Jack Spade, and Ralph Lauren.

“Like sisters, there is both an affection and a rivalry between them: Glaswegians think people from the capital are too Anglified and stuck up, while folk from Edinburgh think working-class Glaswegians are a little coarse and unrefined,” he continues. “There is an old joke that says: ‘You will have more fun at a Glaswegian funeral than you ever will at an Edinburgh wedding,’ and as a Glaswegian I usually laugh and try not get involved in the fight.”

Both Shuggie and Mungo are coming-of-age stories set in Glasgow. “In my creative life, no matter what I think I’m writing about, everything seems to lead me back to my hometown. Glasgow went through a tough time in the 80s, but it emerged as a very exciting city and through it all it never lost its charm or sense of humor. It’s such a singular place, full of compassion and with a deep aversion to pretension or air of any kind. For a novelist, the humanity is irresistible, and for the traveler, it will instantly welcome you and make you feel at home. Edinburgh has always felt like a mythical place, and with its castle and neo-classical architecture, there is good reason why it is called the ‘Athens of the North’. I have never met anyone who visited Edinburgh who didn’t instantly fall in love.”

Below, his guide to Scotland’s sister cities, plus a word of advice: “Should a Scotsman ask you if you prefer one over the other,” he says, “just smile and mumble that you love both, but for very different reasons.

Hotel: I love Hotel Du Vin at One Devonshire Gardens in Glasgow. It’s a wonderfully luxurious stay in an old townhouse a little removed from the bustle of the city. It’s a perfect oasis.

Restaurant: The food scene in Glasgow is really exciting. There are so many young chefs doing incredible things that I almost can’t recommend one single place. I particularly love Gloriosa in West End. Corner Shop does incredible seafood. And Errol’s Hot Pizza on the Southside has my favorite pizza. They do a salad, which is really just a towering plate of grated cheese! In Edinburgh, the Michelin-starred chef [James Murray] is always cooking something surprising at Dogstar in Leith.

For breakfast: Treat yourself to a croissant or pastry from Lannan Bakery in Edinburgh. They are so inventive with their menu that by the time I tell you which flavors I love, they’ll already have invented entirely new ones! Go early to beat the lines.

For dessert: I dream of the brown butter tart at Margo in Glasgow.

Live music: It almost doesn’t matter who is playing, Glasgow is all about live music and just letting yourself go. The nightlife is outstanding. Try to get tickets to the Barrowland Ballroom in the East End. It’s an old working-class dancehall from the 1940s, and the crowd is always up for it. Wear your dancing shoes.

Late night diner/food truck: There is an old chippie called Guido’s Coronation Restaurant in Glasgow’s East End. If you do as I advise and go hear live music, stop in here after. The Formica interior is from the 1960s and is wonderfully kitsch, perfect for that Insta photo. Blue Lagoon is another iconic chippie in the city center and rumored to be Justin Bieber’s favorite.

Best dish: Fun fact: Scots love curry so much that chicken tikka masala was voted our unofficial national dish! Ashoka on Ashton Lane is a great traditional restaurant, while Mother India does an incredible butter chicken. Both are outstanding.

Must shop: In Edinburgh, Multrees Walk has everything from luxury to high street. The Harvey Nichols there is a good one-stop shop. Princes Square in Glasgow is a covered shopping center with great restaurants. Once you’ve shopped all you want, go to the Everyman theater in the basement and watch a movie with a cold cocktail.

Place I always visit when in town: In Glasgow go to the magnificent Cathedral that dates from the 12^th century and then ascend the Necropolis behind. The views from the hillside cemetery are fantastic, and movie fans will notice that it doubled as a backdrop for Gotham in the last Batman movie.

To see art: In Edinburgh, wander down through the picturesque Dean Village (and skirt all the influencers taking photos!) and then head to the Modern wing of the National Galleries of Scotland. In Glasgow go to the Tramway housed in an old Tram depot; they stage wonderful drama and dance performances.

To stock up on gifts: Scottish knitwear is unbeatable. In Edinburgh check out local designer Kestin for a modern take on functional, military-inspired menswear. For women I love the mad, funky Fair Isles at Eribé.

Bookstore or library: Topping & Co. in Edinburgh is in the most spectacular Georgian building. It has an incredible selection and different themed rooms. Grab a coffee and waste the afternoon pretending it is your personal library. Portobello Bookshop is a small, youthful indie that programs the best events with the biggest names. Check out their schedule–it’s a great night out.

For the interior: For fantastical textiles and wallpapers that feel like a fever dream, visit Glasgow designers Timorous Beasties on the Great Western Road. You might enter believing you’re a minimalist, but you will be so seduced, your conversion to maximalism is guaranteed. Also, Niki Jones has a brilliant eye for textures and ceramics. She makes a traditional Scottish aesthetic feel very modern.

Must-buy souvenir: Something woolen and Scottish made. I think everyone should own a piece of Harris Tweed, it will last forever, never go out of style, and will always make you look put together in an old money sort of way. It is the antithesis of wasteful, fast fashion.

Tourist trap I love anyway: The winding hill of Victoria Street in Edinburgh is popular for a reason. But the best way to view it is to climb to the terrace above and people watch with a coffee or aperitif.

For peace and quiet: When you’re in Edinburgh be sure to take an hour and climb Arthur’s Seat. The untouched beauty of the extinct volcano will have you amazed you’re still in the city. There is no better view.

Best way to get around town: Glasgow has the third oldest subway in the world, which is fondly nicknamed the ‘Clockwork Orange’ (don’t be afraid!). Edinburgh has a brand-new tram system that takes you to all the sights. The public transport in both cities (and between them) is excellent and affordable.

Day trip: Everyone who visits Scotland wants to head north to the Highlands but instead go south to the Scottish Borders which are filled with green hills and quaint little villages. Go see Rosslyn Castle and try to find the Holy Grail. Then go to Melrose and see the famous Abbey from 1136. You can walk the Eildon Hills, stroll by the River Tweed, then reward yourself at the Hoebridge, which serves the best in modern Scottish cuisine in a picturesque location.

Best view: For me the best view is total immersion at a corner table in an authentic Glasgow pub. It is a great way to spend an evening and to make new friends. Some absolute gems are the Laurieston on the Southside or The Belle on Great Western Road.

Architectural gem: Visit the Mackintosh House at Glasgow University. It’s an Art Nouveau treasure that was almost lost to the world before it escaped demolition. Afterwards, cross the road and wander the magnificent university that inspired Hogwarts.

Best time to visit, weather-wise: That depends. Scottish weather is much maligned, but our summers are sublime, and the long daylight feels like a real luxury. However, I love Scotland in the winter. I find the drizzle really romantic. It’s the perfect excuse to crack out the outerwear or snuggle up in a pub for the afternoon.

Cheap date: Honestly, Edinburgh is the easiest city to fall in love in. The best date is just wandering the old town. There are so many beautiful streets and hidden corners you can’t help but stop and kiss on the cobbles. For an extra cuddle do one of the haunted ghost tours.

Worth-it splurge: The Fife Arms, the hotel owned by the gallerists behind Hauser & Wirth, is incredible. Filled with a stunning collection of art, it’s also a gateway to the magnificent Cairngorm Mountains.

Bag I tote: I carry a waxed cotton, vintage Prorsum holdall but the women in my life love the Scottish accessory brand Strathberry. Whenever I’m home, I always get a shopping list of pieces to pick up.

Favorite airport: If you want to see the Scottish islands, landing on the white sand beaches of Barra is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Not for the faint of heart but an incredible start to a romantic getaway. The clear turquoise waters of the Outer Hebrides are breathtaking–freezing–but breathtaking!

Best for people-watching: Hands down it’s being in Edinburgh during festival every August. The city doubles in size and there’s nonstop music, theater, and comedy for a whole month. So many great artists like Graham Norton and Fleabag’s Phoebe Waller-Bridge got their start at the festival. Between shows, sun yourself in the Meadows and watch the world go by.

Secret spot only locals know: If you’re still in your Cowboy Carter era, then Glasgow has a traditional Country and Western dancehall that the locals go mad for. I wrote about Grand Ole Opry in my novel Shuggie Bain. It’s a riot of flouncy skirts and gun-slinging competitions. It’s a wild night out that will leave you with a hundred stories.