Call it a summer rite, but every year, a nostalgic fashion item makes a grand return to our wardrobes. This season, it’s all about the kaftan. The perennial beach staple, known as (I hate to say it), a throw-on-and-go swimsuit cover-up, is returning in a way that feels more inspired by its past—while still nodding to the icons that embraced it.

From the rich textures worn by Marella Agnelli, the Italian socialite and Truman Capote swan to the vivid color, print, and embroidery embraced by Andre Leon Talley, whose kaftans could be seen at “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” at The Met last year, designers are taking these past inspirations and bringing them into the present. Today’s kaftans aren’t just to be worn over a bikini, but styled in unexpected ways that capture summer’s expressive, free-spirited tone. Our favorite contemporary interpretation? Worn as a dress over pants—a look Julianne Moore’s character Michaela Kell nails; her wardrobe in the limited series alone makes it worth the watch.

Whether in chiffon, silk, linen, or crisp cotton, a billowing kaftan is an inherently versatile and effortless piece that brings comfort, ease, and elegance into a wardrobe, no matter the occasion. We show you how it’s done below—oh, and only one of them involves you wearing it to the beach!

Balmy Summer Nights

Sara Cristina knows how to do resortwear, and that’s evident with this pearl-embellished kaftan that can be worn on and off the sandy shores. Leave your glowy summer legs bare and accessorize with art-deco-inspired pieces.

Summer in the City

A city slickers’ take on the flowing, beach-ready kaftan. Give it urban edge with leather extras and a pair of Bottega Veneta sunglasses to truly elevate this effortless style.

For the Bohemian at Heart

Kaftans are, at their core, a maximalist addition to any wardrobe. Embrace the freeing, effortless ambience of summer with a swirly motif, a ceramic beaded necklace, and soft-touch accessories.

After-Hours Elegance

Fringe adds a level of sophistication that can take you into the evening hours—lavish dinner plans, anyone? Don’t stray too far from summertime’s laid-back appeal; style yours with a chunky beaded bracelet, silky clutch, and strappy, flat sandals.

Off-Duty Ease

The cotton drawstring pant is a summer must-have. Add a billowing cotton kaftan on top—and into your rotation—for maximum comfort and maximum chic.

Beach-Bound

There’s no denying—a kaftan is still one of the most versatile pieces you can pack in your carry-on and take on holiday. Slip into it over a simple one-piece and pair with easy pull-on shorts.