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Vogue

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Three's a Trend: Gucci, Dior, and Louis Vuitton Lean Deeply Into Art for Their Resort Collections
Alexandra Hi · 2026-05-21 · via Vogue

Fashion is often at its best when it’s multidisciplinary, even if the industry has historically been viewed by wider audiences as existing in a pretty little vacuum. But great designers often integrate inspiration from a diverse array of mediums—film, music, and, indeed, fine art—and major houses have produced almost too many art world collaborations to count. In a time of brainrot, blandness, and AI, taste has quickly become its own form of currency. As a result, luxury designers have begun making a more explicit push to highlight both their higher-minded artistic inspirations and deeper partnerships with cultural institutions. Such public gestures also come at a time when fashion is ascending as a global dominant force at the forefront of both pop culture and capital-C Culture. Last night’s Louis Vuitton resort 2027 runway show is a prime example of this.

The event was staged on the first floor of The Frick Collection, its runway winding through a once-Gilded Age mansion that now plays host to some of the world’s greatest works of fine art. While Nicolas Ghesquière never shies from the finer venues in life—last year’s spring 2026 show, which was held in the summer apartments of Anne d’Autriche in the Louvre, immediately comes to mind—yesterday’s show also served as an official toast to Louis Vuitton’s cultural sponsorship of the Upper East Side museum. The three-year partnership includes funding for three major special exhibitions, one year of free admission evenings (which will be titled Louis Vuitton First Fridays), and a two-year Louis Vuitton Curatorial Research Associate staff position.

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Louis Vuitton’s resort 2027 runway show marks the beginning of a three-year partnership with The Frick Collection.

Photo: Getty Images

The project is certainly not the first time a luxury brand has intertwined itself with a treasured institution. Chanel is a benefactor of both the Paris Opera and the Tribeca Film Festival, and Louis Vuitton was the first luxury brand to serve as a patron to the Louvre, for example, but last night’s commitment to a prestigious New York museum feels like a new global chapter. The collection’s official partnership with the Keith Haring Foundation only furthers this sentiment. The invite featured an antique leather Louis Vuitton briefcase, which Haring himself actually graffitied in 1984. On the runway, pieces such as Haring’s iconic New York apple and his 1982 “dogs with UFOs” motif appeared on boxy shirts with origami-like folds.

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Louis Vuitton, resort 2027

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Louis Vuitton’s public embrace of the arts this stateside resort season isn’t happening in isolation, either. The luxury house is the third to show in the US this month, with the most recent exhibition of prowess being Gucci’s total takeover of New York’s Times Square. Prior to the show, the brand took to Instagram to share its inspiration: Robert Longo’s “Men in the Cities” series, a satirically banal project, in part inspired by the jerking death scenes in Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s The American Soldier, that contorted the forms of New York strivers. It was a fitting reference for Demna, given that his last New York show (during his tenure at Balenciaga) saw guests showering Balenciaga Bucks on the doorstep of the New York Stock Exchange.

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“Guccicore” in Times Square.

Photo: Taylor Hill/Getty Images

With fashion’s ultra-democratization, moodboards are no longer under lock and key—nor is a subtle reference only something your most cultured friend can spot and tout at a dinner party. “Digital media has created unprecedented access and documentation of a designer’s process and I think the public relishes in seeing these connections,” art historian Amelia Marran-Baden (aka @Meelzonart) tells Vogue. “Fashion has become bigger than a garment, it’s about building worlds. People enjoy feeling like they are sharing in the designer’s creative process. Perhaps, designers and brands are reacting to that interest and inviting us accordingly.”

This world-building continues off the runway, too. (A show is only 15 minutes, leaving roughly 130,000 more to occupy the internet’s mind before the next one.) For Dior’s Jonathan Anderson, the immortality of cinema is a perfect answer, especially given the designer’s previous costume projects with director Luca Guadagnino for Challengers and Queer. Last week, the French house took to LACMA’s brand-new David Geffen Galleries to re-declare its love for Hollywood. A white bar jacket referenced one made for Marlene Dietrich, who once declared while on set for Alfred Hitchcock’s Stage Fright, “No Dior, no Dietrich!”

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One Dior x Ed Ruscha shirt read “Says I, to Myself Says I,” referencing both the artist’s 2024 painting and Gagosian show of the same name.

Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

Anderson also collaborated with American pop artist Ed Ruscha, his shadowy and distorted lettering emblazoning a series of button-up shirts. Beyond film, Anderson’s Dior has been noticeably art-centric from the very beginning. “He anchored the set of his first menswear show with two [Jean Simeon] Chardin still lifes, A Basket of Wild Strawberries and A Vase of Flowers,” notes Marran-Baden. “His inaugural couture collection was inspired by the work of ceramicist Dame Magdalene Odundo. He transformed Le Basin Octagonal into what was essentially Monet’s water lily garden at Giverny.” Much like this year’s Costume Institute, “Costume Art,” Anderson places his proclivity for clothing and fine art on an equal pedestal, and at Dior, he is making a point to continue to do so. With culture as currency, luxury fashion has never had a more vested interest in showing off its artistic endeavors and brands are using this US-centric resort season to go all-in.