“A practical and romantic approach to everyday clothes.” Monica Paolini’s take on resort at the popular New York label Sea sums up the mood of the moment. While a number of top brands stage runways in exciting locations around the globe, resort collections are generally less showy than spring and fall, and they have to work harder because the clothes are on the sales floors (and online on e-commerce sites) the longest.
Though a Western theme seemed to nod to America’s 250th birthday, resort 2027 was mostly a non-narrative season with many designers focused on materials. At The Row, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen reimagined a trench in a sumptuous moiré. Elsewhere designers applied animal patterns (tigers, cheetahs, zebras, etc.) on pony hair and other pettable flocked and fuzzy fabrics. Romantic rosettes in silk and chiffon recalled the ’20s via Paul Poiret and the Boué Soeurs, while languid ruched dresses tapped into the lean and sinuous ’30s silhouette.
More down to earth were carpenter pants with reinforced knees and the occasional hammer loop, and crisp button-down shirts. At Balenciaga these became sculptural and 3D via drawstrings. Exposed bras and bikini tops were a siren call of summery seduction. Also coming out on top were bandeaus (for her and him).
Chanel’s show opened with Matthieu Blazy’s take on the LBD, specifically the model Vogue dubbed “fashion’s Ford” 100 years ago, in 1926. Flapper-ish drop waist dresses have made a comeback. A similar torso elongating effect is created by deep yokes that extend the waist and release into blooming skirts. Jewels as decoration or as ersatz garments added some sparkle to the resort season.
Is it happenstance that the reappearance of bandeaus and exposed bras coincides with the release of Madonna “Cone-Bra” Ciccione’s new album?
If you’re not ready to test-drive a fashion apron, you can easily build out your wardrobe with a pair of carpenter pants.
In a case of art imitating life, animalier patterns were printed on pettable materials this season.
For elongating the torso, designers are proposing drop-waist dresses and playful yoked party skirts.
Colors sour and sweet, pastel and saturated, and in unexpected combinations brought the collections to life.
Raise a glass to the LBD which was popularized by Coco Chanel precisely a century ago in 1926.
Slinky ruched gowns popularized by the likes of Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich during the silver screen era are back in fashion.
The button-down shirt is the dressier equivalent of the basic tee, a foundational piece with “boyfriend” vibes that can be endlessly reinvented.
The “Go West” spirit of the resort collections seems in keeping with America’s 250th birthday celebrations.
No closet is complete without a trench. What stands out this season are the dressed up versions of this trusty topper—in moiré, satin, even with tassels.
Designers are thrilled with frills. Rosettes bloomed wantonly, and at Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière referenced Gilded Age adornments.
Jeweled garments and jewelry worn as clothing added sparkle to the season.
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