If she’s being totally honest, Barbara Tfank never really expected to go into eveningwear. “When I first started designing, I made jackets and coats,” the designer said during a preview of her fall 2026 collection. “But I somehow migrated away from that as a result of demand, of customers asking me to make gowns because they loved my fabrics,” she said. “I never planned to design gowns.”

Still, as the market for eveningwear gets ever smaller in today’s age of casualization, it allowed the designer to channel those early days with the addition of three new jacket styles. The first, a sapphire blue opera coat with ruffled sleeves in a classic French brocade, keeps in line with the dressier elements at the core of her brand identity; The remaining two, however, are decidedly more casual, pieces that the designer emphasized can easily transition from day to night. One chic model is crafted from a black French wool, is cut with a cropped hemline, and is adorned with vintage gold buttons from Tfank’s personal collection, collected over the years during her travels abroad, which adds a charming personal touch. In the lookbook, the designer styles it with a matching wool skirt, giving it a slightly uptown élan, but more low-key customers could just as easily pair it with a pair of trousers or even—gasp!—jeans.

Of course, gowns—Tfank’s signature, whether she intended it or not—were still in ample supply. This season, the palette veered toward rich jewel tones, like sapphire to emerald, and necklines ranged from girlish sweetheart to a daring off-the-shoulder cut, each rendered from luxe fabrications you won’t be able to find anywhere else in the market. The work of Fauvist painter Matisse was one of the collection’s key inspirations, which allowed Tfank to embrace a more painterly approach to the fabrics she has custom-made at Italy’s famed Taroni Mill. So a beautiful curlicue-like print inspired by the dreamy background swirls in one of Matisse’s works may look as though it were embellished with sequins from afar, but the designer revealed that, on closer inspection, its appearance comes not from embellishment, but the fabric’s woven texture. Details like this are abound in her collection, and yet despite all the sumptuous colors and opulent ornamentation, the standout look this season was one of the most straightforward: a black off-the-shoulder gown with three-quarter length sleeves. It served as a reminder that beneath all the frills and glitz, Tfank became an expert dressmaker, no matter how she started.