Brioni is a relative minnow within the broader Kering universe, but its reputation is rightly nonpareil: back in 1952 it staged the first ever mens fashion show, and its scaling of hand-applied tailoring into an artisan production line was a huge technical feat.
The label was acquired by Kering (then PPR) in 2011, the year after the then family owned tailoring specialist reported a turnover of 170 million euros and profits of 32 million, mostly based on its production of around 50,000 hand-tailored suits. Back then the company employed around 1,800 people across eight production sites in and around Penne, Abruzzo. As Kering Group CEO Luca de Meo observed back in April: “Brioni is by nature a house for those who lead: global decision-makers, ultra-high-net-worth clients, men and women for whom excellence is non-negotiable.”
Today’s presentation focused on Brioni Maestria, a newish categorization of the house’s customization offer. It brings together personalization, made-to-measure and made-to-order services across multiple categories, from tailoring to shirts, knitwear, footwear and small leather goods. The collection itself was built around Rome, the city of Brioni’s founding. That translated into color as much as cut: “Rosso Roma,” eucalyptus green, slate gray, travertine beige, column white, ochre, Trevi blue, midnight blue and coral. Nearly half the jacket and suit fabrics were described as Brioni exclusives, developed through research into materials and shades.
The tailoring was much softer than the corporate power suit traditionally favored by the world-leader Brioni clients whose orders were once displayed in the foyer of its Rome offices. Trousers were relaxed, shoulders were deconstructed or half-constructed, and the house’s Plume construction appeared in a softer, fully lined suit with double-pleat trousers. One low-buttoning double-breasted jacket came in Zefiro, a silk, cashmere and linen cloth, with an ultra-light shoulder. It was worn over a knitted polo. The double-breasted Soffio blazer was shown in pale nubuck with gold buttons, while another soft leather blazer was worked to look almost like cotton.
The Brioni team pointed out that sportswear appeared in the house’s catalogue in 1952, the same year it staged that first runway show in Florence. That provenance was asserted in a suede blouson cut with a shirt collar and finished with nubuck details, a Vagabond overshirt that mixed the feel of cashmere with the handle of suede, an unlined Sahariana in wool-linen herringbone, and a lightweight wool Travel Jacket with alligator-patterned nubuck details.